shapp

ChuckK, I think you are mistaken, that is the Solar Slab Gully (5.3 depending on who you ask) which is the general start of the entire Solar Slab route (other alternate starts are Johnny Vegas, etc.). The descent gully described in Swain is even farther to the right of the Sular Slab Gully and is apparently nasty.

a 35 minute climb of the entire solar slab = about 40 feet of climbing per minute with no stops, that is smoking, with a short stop that would meen you would have to make a move at least once a second while climbing. Speaking from experience, the super topo guide directions for the descent are very straight forward for the painted bowl descent, which is really the only option besides rapping the route. the gully on the right hand side is probably a bad idea although I haven't been that way.

Hey Timmay, when I say conventional, I mean where you can drive up and launch a regular sized raft with rowing frame/gear, as opposed to hikikng in with a one man IK or alpaca, for example the Illinois River stuff. Cheers,

Timmy, actually depending on the flow and what stretch you are floating it is very gnar, and the remoteness makes it almost top gnar for conventional raft trips in oregon

even if layton placed the origionals, these have been replaced. The question would be then what dumbass felt the need to pull the old bolts and replaced them? On another note about bolted cracks and bolted natural gear placements, a certain route setter once told me his ethic when discussing routes at Spring Mt. (oregon) that (to paraphrase the conversation) he bolted natural gear placements so that the routes would be accessible to the masses and so they wouldn't have to go buy a bunch of expensive gear to climb his routes, and to make them utterly safe (I disagree that bolts are inherently safer anyway). What a crock of horse shit! I have climbed many of his routes and found numerous bomb proof placements and one fully bolted route (Flaked Out) goes nearly all clean with bomber gear except for maybe 1 or 2 bolts. He has also put bolts on a pure crack route up at the point where it gets wide (5 to 6 inch) I guess to also eliminate the need to carry bigger gear. Bogus I say! and crossed pure crack climbs with bolted routes, put up bolteed routes that are wihin arms reach of independent crack routes.

Any body held and squeezed one of these? or used one? Not interested in hearing about other cams, me gots lots of experience and lots of other cams, I was just noticing that they make one of these that is more than 1.5 inches in range bigger than a #4 Friend, going up to about 5.5 inches in the upper range. http://www.acmeclimbing.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=425

Borat

Minx Did you ever climb Trix and/or Epiphany? Kind of stupid that the route setter chose to cross the excellent Trad route (trix) with the lower bolted part of epiphany, although the last 2 bolts pulling over the big roof on Epiphany makes for a great ending to Trix.

I will combine and go with best mixed pitch (some bolts some trad gear): Oregon: trix finger crack to bolted roof on Epiphany (Spring Mt.) Washington: Other Side of the Tracks 1st pitch (Some place by Filthington)

I personally like the look of Whitelaw's topos, maybe he could draw them for you.

While the point is well taken Mr. Commander, coulde we reserve this thread for actual reviews of the books, and keep the good spray discussion in the other thread, I like the spray discussion but it is hard to wade through that to find info on the books. Thanks

So to stay back on the subject of the new guidebooks, I got both "Rock Climbing Oregon" A. Bolf and B. Ruef and Weekend Rock Oregon by H. Horton. In my intial 5 minute inspection of the Anthony lakes area In the Bolf and Ruef book, I can allready tell that the authors have a lot of F-ups. For example they do not have the peaks above Hoffer lakes named correctly. A simple look at the USGS 7.5 minute quad could have fixed all this. When refering to routes on Lees Peak, they actually describe routes and show pictures for The Lakes Lookout. They have The Lakes Lookout incorrectly labeled as "Lees Peak" and they have Angel peak correctly labeled on the map, but when they refer to routes on "angel peak" they are actually showing pictures and describing routes on Lees Peak. There realy isn't any routes on Angel Peak to begin with anyway. Also the names of some of the routes I don't believe are the ones that have been historically used. Also I notice at High valley they label the best route there, which is do or fly as 10c, that is crazy, no more than 5.9+. Anyway, lots of errors in only about 5 minutes of review. On to Weekend Rock by Ron Horton. Let me preface that I have D. Whitelaws Weekend Rock Washington, which is supposed to be from the same series. Whitelaws book is well done as alwasy highlighting some of the best routes in washington. So with that said, Hortons book is not a list of some of the best 5.10 routes and under in Oregon. One example illustrates this with ease. While one would have a hard time summarizing a few of the best 5.10 and under routes at Smith, how does bunny face make it but Karate Crack does not make it into the book? How is it that Monkey Face is not even labeled on the area map, nor is any route included on Monkey Face, one of the most iconic formations in the Park? Whitelaw included some routes in his book for Washington that had some A1 or A0 part, so it reasons that Horton could have included 5.10 and under routes with a little easy aid, so how did the West Face Variation or Pioneer route not get in Hortons book. Granted it would be hard to only pick a few dozen routes for smith, but no Monkey Face, that is total rediculous. Hardly any history in either book either.

If it hasn't been done in the last several years, there needs to be new anchor bolts at the top of the first pitch belay of the West Face Variation on Monkey Face. For many years I have been backing these up with natural gear as one was old and rusty and the other bolt was loose, but I havnt climbed this for about 5 years, so they may have been replaced. If they are still the old ones and you are going to replace those, I would also move them to the other side of the belay nook.

photo 1 is salish, photo 2 is the edge of squire creek wall

I read the decision, It has nothing to do with the constitution as T1/1! suggests, but with the interpretation of plain language of statue enacted by the congress. The bottom line is that if you are parking at a trailhead that is not developed (i.e. has no have all of these amenities for the USFS to have specific authority to charge a fee: bathroom, picnic tables, interpretave area, security, and some other amenities) then the USFS is specifically precluded from charging to park there and hike on the trail. Furthermore, the language of the regs is clear, the regs specifically gives "no authorization to charge a fee for using a trail"

So for the Book 'Rock Climbing Oregon" by Adam R. Bolf and Benjamin P. Ruef, Does anyone out there know who these guys are? and what is their story? Anybody ever climbed with them or give them beta on areas? Corvallis, where did you get the book? also check your pms about the thingy.

tie in with rope on way up, slings on way down, then don't have extra shiz getting in the way.

been using a clove hitch in the rope for about 15+ years and still alive.

time for hanman to weigh in

I like Wal-mart, the yellow rope on da spools is da bomb

remembering the climb should be in your soul, no need for pics to remember the experience, the pics are generally only to show other people that you are a badass

Weasel is in Rattle, soloed it with soloist in year 2000 to get some cursty old bail biners me spied will scoping 3 o'clock rock for first time, subsequently learned of the name and rating when the Rattle CD came out. P.S. if you can identify the crabs I think I still have them, but chucked the tat.

Garden Weasel needs new bolties, fun and steeper than other routes at 3 o'clock

you need double 60 meters to reach the ground from the nose boulder in one rap, if double 50 meters you have to make one more short rap at the bottom to reach the ground. I have climbed the west face variation many many times. Climbing with double 60 meter half ropes is great as there can be a lot of drag on the first two pitches of the west face variation take the left hand start on the first pitch through the bulge and then take the left hand variation on the second pitch listed in the Watts guide. Standard rack to a #4 friend will treat you right with two aiders (not two sets of two) and some jugs for the second. Only clipping every third bolt or so on the bolt ladder really helps out the second cleaning on jugs. Shap

two weeks ago there appeared to be little snow on the approach, you can rap the route too. The creek was rippin though