shapp

I agree, I ordered the Willamette and rogue editions. While info is good, there are many many errors. Very poor quality on the final editors/publishers part. Worth getting though. Also, more route history would be nicer. Of the several bolted routes at the base of the big arch on Wolf rock serveral are listed as unknown for first ascent. The ones not put up by Jim were established by Brett Hall, who grew up in Sprinfield/Eugene and also in the Rosburg area. I don't know who his partner was, but possiblly Matt Pike was involved who also grew up in the Glide/Roseburg area. It would be nice to someday tie all this together into a comprehensive oregon craging guide some day including central and eastern Oregon, kind of like a revised Dodge tome.

Major construction sites, such as condos etc. will have big piles of scrap 2X dimmensional ends. Shouldn't be to hard to find, just ask at the job site for permission from the forman.

Dude you don't need skis. Take a pair of your down hill boards, if you got some in the 170 to 185 range. Go pickup a pair of used bindings. Anything a couple years old is probably good, or the cheapest new alteranative is the plain old voile cable, about $85, simple cheap and basically destruct proof. Mount the bindings so that the pins on your boots rest on the chord center (there are other methods but this is easiest, look it up on the interent if you don't know chord center) and make sure your heel is centered on the ski. You don't need to go out and worry about how light your skis are now. You basically want to ski the lifts and figure it out. By then you might decided you want to stick to AT or you might fall in love with tele. Then you can go out and pick up some bad ass stix. However, make sure you get some new or lightly used plastic boots that fit your foot. If your feet aint comfy you defenitely won't like it. Good Luck

is it a face on the NE side of the Twin Peak or Sawtooth Peak? if so, not unclimbed. P.S. I don't of a master list of routes in NE Oregon although I have a big notebook full of misc. scraps of info. Nor do all the locals know or like each other, or know what routes each other has done. As far as I know there are only 1 or 2 locals that spray at all about the routes they have done to the local community, much less to the outside world. I think climbing out there is still mostly secretive and terratorial. Therefore, I would not hazard a guess to weather a route has or has not been done on any particular face, especially since this is in North Amarican and Fred is still alive.

maybe not unclimbed

I don't want anything to do with what has been refered to as the "flying camel move" on pitch three of Shot in the Dark.

I concur with matt, I believe you were on Luke, the last 10 or 12 foot to the sencond pitch anchors is indeed a little but puckery with very poor hands. 5.10a

Maybe they were not at Darrington, but at static point on Fud Hat! I can't see how anyone could be off route or alarmed on Cornicopia flake with pro any pretty much any place you want it and rated at about 5.5 or 5.6. Unless you were leading with a gold line, some of those old Robins boots with the really slippery vibram sole, and a rack of hexes.

This post is more confusing than the 1980's Brooks and Whitelaw Darrington guide book!

I vote that the WCC consider a covert surveillance and subsequent ass kicking of the perps. Followed by duck-taping and hanging off a popular nearby route using said coveted climbing gear, ala the hanging pig head incident!

Cleaning out the ski stuff and getting ready to shred this winter. Have voile release binding sytem. Works and in good shape. I can help mount if need be. Looking to trade for some skins or maybe some halfway decent cross country skis or may be a blue or yellow metolious tcu in good shape. PM me Shapp

or Sterling 8.4 mm marathon double rope (i.e. really called 1/2 ropes by the manufacturers) Have two and like them, kind of slipery for catching falls and rapping when new, but me thinks this is true for all treated small diameter half ropes.

Been there, but will be in Glacier Park with my wife all next week

I believe that the salem boulders and renton crag are in the same higher dimensional plain predicted by String or M theory

not surprisingly for a large chunck of low angle granite slab, there are routes/variations all over the thing. I have climbed another route to the far right of the regular route (one described above). It heads roughly straight up to the double wide cracks/chimney system (also depicted on the topo above), probably in the 5.8 range, did it in 8 pitches.

runnout for the first 3 pitches or so. A more direct and better protected, but harder pitch to the right of the first pitch leads directly up and over a lap to the firt belay. There may be more bolts on the route than the topo suggests. The first time I climbed the route there was 1 bolt, second time a couple bolted belays, etc. Expect all nut anchor belays. Standard rack to about #4 friend will make you happy. head right (north) for a somewhat tricky scramble down the side to the bottom. If you think you need a rope or a rapple you have gone the wrong way.

Located ~10 miles outside of the town of McCall, Idaho. From McCall head East toward Ponderosa State Park (big green sign) and after a few miles, turn right toward Lake Fork Campground and Lick Creek Summit. Continue past Lake Fork Campground on your right, until the rock wall is visible on your left. Park in the pullout at Slickrock signpost. Now, just cross the creek on a logjam directly below the pullout and climb the hillside for 15 minutes to the center and base of the cliff.

me thinky elephants perch is not done on a 3 day trip to boise, however, search for the regular route on slick rock. 5.6+ 10 pitchs slab, trad, very fun can be done in a long day from bosie (it is a little ways outside McCall.

The routes are typically sport bolted. They are face climbs with no natural pro available. Bolts are probably 10 feet apart or so if I remember correctly.

oops, ment the Garden not the Grove

It is possible that John Glass (spp.?) from Corvallis at the time may have put those routes up with Bret. Another amazing climber. Incidently, Bret, John, Matt Pike and Possibley Matt Baker were some of the first to develop some of the bouldering at what is now refered I believe as the Grove.

I believe all the bolted routes under the arch were established by Bret Hall in about 1997, although I don't know who his partner was. I climbed all of them the year they were put up. They are all very good with routes and pretty steep and solid. I too took a pretty big whipper out into space on one of the 10+ routes. Incidently Bret started climbing in the mid 1990's and repointed 13.b after only about 2 years of climbing. I have not seen him for many years. Does anyone out there know where he is?

buy dish soap at Kmart ($1.99), but in pot with nice warm water, work the device, let dry, don't need cam lube, done and done. Works really well. Take left over $13.00 you saved on not buying the fancy cam stuff that you don't need and buy two sixers of your favorite microbrew to drink while playing with your new clean gear.

From long time experience, soap and warm water is best. Not boiling if there are any plastic washers or bushings! The plastic can deform and become even more sticky. This happened to me on a first generation metolious #10. No lube should be necessary. I usually wash them once per year after average use.

I have soloed some high problems at Banks. It is great! However, I cannot recommend the nude sunbathing due to poison oak. Bass fishing aint too bad either. In this area: http://www.topozone.com/map.asp?z=11&amp...amp;layer=DRG25