shapp

What about for the people who already baught the error laiden first one like me?

Tat would not approximate an old harness unless said old harness was hung from a tree or bolt for several years being affected by sun, wind, rain, snow, mold, mice etc.

Although I haven't been there yet this year, based on review of a recent photo taken of exfoliation dome, there is likely still a bunch of snow up on top that is melting making the whole thing wet. Better count on more of a recon trip than a climbing trip.

I think slick rock is almost 50 degrees, sick!

This should be in the Oregon forum

will use the PT board, Do you think a dimand masonary/concrete circular saw blade on my old circular saw would be good enough or do I have to rent a regular concrete saw

My idea so far is to snap a line on the asphalt along the edge (the asphalt is not very thick along the edge) and carfully break as clean an edge as possible with a wide masonary chisel, did a test try and it works pretty good. Then butt up some of the fiber board expansion joint stuff to the asphalt edge and pin this in with some 6 inch spikes through the fiber board into the asphalt underlayment, then use asphalt caulking to run a bead where the fiber board meats the actual asphalt edge to make sure it is all clean and stuck so the asphalt will not chip away, then screw a half inch piece of wood to the top of the fiber board to run the screed board on top during pooring (taking off the wood strip after the concrete is set) to give that small lip as described above .

Thanks for the comments, stay on topic, which is dressing the edge of the concrete to the asphalt, I know all the other stuff. P.S. there was no old slab where the new concrete will go, there is currently a 4 foot wide strip of gravel between my current driveway and the asphalt. I don't like it cause grass and weeds grow in there and it gets a little rutty from time to time.

So under this scenario I would run one end of the screed board on top of the edge of the old slab and the other screed board edge along the top of the asphalt cut edge?

Non- climbing related question. Need some advice. I have poured some slabs before, but not where they abut an asphalt street. I am replacing a 4 foot wide strip of gravel between my existing paved driveway and the asphalt street with concrete. How do I get a nice joint between the concrete and asphalt and how might you form this up for pouring it?

I have some Riachle hard boots, that work great for split boards or regular with plate bindings, they are about a 1/2 size too small for me so they are about size 9.5 to 10. take $30, very similar but a little lighter than these http://www.skiboardsonline.com/Merchant2...gory_Code=boots PM me, in or around Everett to N. Seattle

I think I could, looks like A0 to me

Hwy 2 is one of the main reasons I lift ski at Baker (I live in Everett). Went up to stevens on MLK day this year cause baker was closed (too much snow). Hadn't been there in about 5 years cause every time I go it is a cluster F of traffic. Bottom line: pulled out of the parking lot at stevens on the way home and sat there for 2 hours, moved about a half mile in that time. Took about 4.5 hours to get to everett. No accident reported on the radio during that time, I don't know WTF was up? Won't be back up to stevens for probably another 5 years until I forget this last trip.

Al right, bunch from the 80s and 90s, would like to get something in trade, preferably a number 3.5 or 4 ridgid friend. Can deliver from Everett to N Seattle Area. send PM

Got about 80 misc, mostly Climbing, about 10 old Mountain mags, some R&I, few others from about 1978 to present. going to keep about 10 or so of the ones I am really attached to for historical reasons. Looking to trade all for 3.5 and 4 friend in good shape (can be older ridgids) or else 2 - #1 TCUs in good shape. In and around Everett or North seattle, is where I can meet you. P.M. me

moss and choss

As a person who was raised in the Eugene/Springfield area, and whos first rock climbing experience was during the 5th grade at the columns, I would say never nail there regardless of the route. Nearly every line has been tried or climbed there free, and if the line you were on has not been freed, there are too many impressionable idiots there that might take your que and start nailing Ski Tracks or some other good route. If you PM me I can direct you to more appropriate places to practic nailing in your area.

Yeah all the old badasses go and put routes up at Darrington cause the beer gut is bigger, which deminishes the ability to pull steep and overhanging sporto routes, but these old gromets have the foot work and balance of balerinas (spp?) allowing them to climb 5.11 slab (scarrry).

Not that I am a big Columbia fan one way or the other, but I did get a cheap pair of Columbia "approach" type sneakers for about $40 last year and they have held up very well to some D3 and D4 thrashing.

incedently this site is totally awsome http://storrick.cnchost.com/VerticalDevicesPage/VerticalHome.shtml

Sorry, Yates does make an ascender but it is CMI that is making the CMI Expidition ascender that is identicle to the last generation Clogs I think. Same shape and cam locking mechanism. Here is the pics, looks like the old Clogs to me. http://www.cmi-gear.com/catalog/ascenders/expasc.asp

I think that Yates scored the tooling from Clog and now makes the old style clogs, much better than petzl, what do you think snaileye, didn'd you and Bleskis loose a clog off Arches?

The reason for not clipping half ropes into the same piece is primarily due to friction. You either have to clip them eachinto their own binner or clip both into the same biner/piece for the hole climb. If you climb up a ways alternating clips then decide to clip both into the same piece/biner, then climb up a ways and take a big fall the length of each rope out from the belay is different for each rope. As you fall one rope will travel faster through the binner, for which both strands were clipped through. This can result in onrope burning through the other. I don't know if this makes sense, but the bottom line is that when climbing with half ropes, each strand should be clipped to its own binner, either on seperate pieces or on one piece to combat this issue of differential rope travel speed. This is what manufactures of half ropes have printed in their literature, at least this was described in the literature that came with my sterling half ropes.

May be the crag I posted a picture of is directly Norwest from Shady Cove camground with Opal Wall being to the Northeast of this crag. http://www.topozone.com/map.asp?lat=44.85306&lon=-122.28972

is this Opal Wall? http://www.nthward.com/photo_galleries/oregon/DSCF0111.JPG