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Everything posted by shapp
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As far as I am concerned the owner is laim. I talked with those folks back in the early 1990s. They suck, if they were real climbers they would talk to the access fund and find away to be bought out, and turn it into a climbing park. With the shortage of west side rock their attitude is pure selfishness. BTH Megaman, dude have you never looked up at baldy and seen he crags down low? How long have you lived in the area? To a climber, these cliffs are obvious from all over Springfield.
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Rodchester, I think you are hopeless. Take your single stem cams, place a couple in a horizontal placement with the stem hanging over the edge, climb up about 10 feet and take a jump, report back to us if your cable on that piece is totally fucked. Second, take rigid friend with a gunks tie-off, place it in the same horizontal crack, climb up ten feet and jump. Report back to us that the sling absorbed the force over the edge, and the cam looks exactly like it did before you took the leap. Scratch your head and consult John Longs anchor books, post your gear for sale on cc.com and take up fishing.
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Rodchester, I said "cables get totally tweaked in a horizontal placement after a fall". Like if you place the cam in a horizontal crack and take a fall the cables get bent. I don't mean a 5 foot pussy fall, but a 20 foot fall. I have a couple cams you can have that are totally fucked because of this. The placements were textbook, but the cables gote bent over the crack edge; howver, the edge was not rounded, but fairly angular. THis probably lead to more tweaking than would have occured if the crack was more rounded. Anyway to cjoo1f, my first leads were with saddle wedges, some hexes, a few wired old wildcountry stopers, and some slung BD nuts, and I even had a couple of those camlock crapy hex/stoper things and a couple forest t-nuts, but I never used them. Anyway cams are great I think we can all agree and as usually personal preferences vary widely, and climbers can argue with the best of them. Shapp out
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We were at smith the day it caught on fire several years ago. Next day we went to Wolf Rock and took a big whipper on one of the routes I think Bret Hall put up. On the way back down the hill I found a big old bag of nugs! On a non-climbing trip last year one of my co-workers found $1,400 and a bag of smack at a trailhead on the Snoqualmie river, turned it into the cops, he had to wait a while but ended up getting the money! no shiz story
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I have the directions to the crag and can email them to anyone that wants to see how to get there. I have no idea if there are routes there or if the rock is good, but I will check it out one of these days.
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Sorry, I ment the Rodchester may be too young to remember all of the badass hard free routes put up in the Valley and the Gunks with rigid friends.
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Rodchester may be to old to have used rigid freinds. He may be a techno geek. Don't believe everything you read. I agree with Bill Simpkins. I have climbed probably a couple hundred cracks with rigid friends and had zero problems. My rigid friends are probably 15 years old and still in great shape, but I have reslung them with webbing a couple times. Don't bash something until you have experience with it. I garuntee that you will be plenty happy with foreged friends. And unless you are climbing in the East, vertical placement are the norm in the Northwest. In addition, for the occasional horizontal placement the tie off actually works very good. It actually may be better then a cable stem since cord or webbing is going over the crack edge, but on a cable stem unit the cable will get bent all to shit after a fall, except for maybe aliens. But I can tell you from experience that trango and metolious cables get totally tweaked in a horizontal placement after a fall.
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Chances are that if you don't have a rack that you are a beginner. A full set of forged freinds and one sett of stoppers (they all work pretty good, mostly it is personal preference) will get you up most easy routes. When you have the money, get another full set of cams of your preference, I have a bunch of different kinds, including metolious, BD, wild country (forged and technical), and some old trango and spider cams and they all work pretty good.
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Always had a hankering to check out the northeastern spire at the base of big 4. Went flyfishing up on the upper Sauk by monte cristo road and the spire again called to me. Anyone every climbed on this and how is the rock?
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Can I try a free set, I promise to use and abuse them?
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Any one know of this place, maybe it needs a look http://fp2.centuryinter.net/billfire/1133crags-photo.htm
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I forgot to say that my 4cly 1997 tacoma gets 27 miles per gallon in the city and 29 on the highway, which blows chunks on any 6 cyl 4 wheel drive truck or SUV
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I have to say that jordop is smoking crack. Toyota, datsun, nissan have made small 4 cyl trucks for decades. In general they have a fine reputation. If you need power and need to haul heavy shit you aint even going to buy a 6 cyl tacoma. The only thing you can do with a 6cyl tacoma that you can't or shouldn't do much with a 4cyl is two a boat or tent trailer. I have had mine and put way over 100,000 with no problems. I have had the bed filled up with rafting gear and 4 people in the cab climbing up out of some remote river canyons up some steep grades for several miles with no problems. It aint a race car but moves along a lot faster than a geometro or my old VW bus.
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Toyotas are solid. All you need to do is take it to your local knuckle scraping mechanic if you think you really want to buy, pay them bout 50 bucks to check it all out and write something up to negotiate with the seller. I checked the blue book and if it is in top shape it is about like I thought, around $6,000. DO NOT PAY $9500. you can a newer rig with way less for that, as per my other post. If you do have $9500 to pay, you may want to consider buying a certified used truck from a toyota dealer. The certified used rigs often come with a very good waranty.
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It has been that price for many years.
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Way too much money. I bought a 1997 4 cyl with an extra cab in 2000 with 27,000 mi and paid 10,500. I don't know what the 1995 is worth, but you should check the bluebook at your bank or credit union (talk to a loan agent and they can book it out). I be it is around $6,000 if it is in really good shape). I have had excellent luck with my truck and have put over 100,000 miles on it with no problems.
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Dude you are wrong. As I suggested it is more than the boat rental per day. A one way portage is $25, so $50 smackers total, see the link http://www.rosslakeresort.com/info.html Word though on checking in and reserving the campsites cause you do need an individual permit for each night for each campsite.
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I know I may be riduculed, but the coleman 1 burner I have is great. A little heavier than say a whisperlite but not much. I am not sure of the model but it take multiple fules and folds up with the attache hose to the pump you screw into the fuel bottle. It was pretty cheap, I think about $50 bucks on sale and it has good temperature control, has never broken and I've had it for probably 5 years.
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If you are not planning to drive up through Canada then down to Hozameen I would rent a boat from the resort. If you are planning to go to Hozameen then find another deal. If your plan is to put in below ross dam, paddle up the few miles then portage around the dam then I would just rent from the Resort, because you will want the vehicle portage around the dam that the resort provides and it costs more doing the portage than it does to rent the boats from the Resort. Bottom line if you are starting from the bottom end of Ross lake, rent from the Resort, if you are putting in at Hozameen find another deal than the resort. I would lend you mine, but the canoe is booked every weekend with me until my ankle heals up and I'm able to climb. Have fun and don't forget the mosquito repellent?
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Searching for Eugene OR female climbing partner
shapp replied to wildbillc's topic in Climbing Partners
No insult intended. Nudy mags are great and they don't tell you to take out the garbage. And there aint nothing wrong with the occasional raunchy personal add. So what gives on Hills Creek? I'll show you my crag if you show me yours? -
If you can climb real A2+ or almost A3 I suggest a run up the Turkey Monster in the Menagerie or go to Wolf rock and have an adventure.
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Always pack a gun when we go to remote areas in Alaska. All of my wifes family lives all over up there. Many live in remote areas and have guns in there living room read to use since there are a lot of Grizz and also moose can actually be a sevre problem. My wife has a ton of stories about moose problems on her walk to the school bus stop. Guns are tools that can also be deadly. A gun used by a compentent person and stored properly is not a danger. In my own personal experience I know a few people accidently killed by gun fire, and a whole bunch of people killed in car wrecks by drunk drivers.
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Searching for Eugene OR female climbing partner
shapp replied to wildbillc's topic in Climbing Partners
Post a personal add and get a nudy mag! I want to know about hills creek, never heard of it? -
I am going through the same problem right now. A few weeks ago my wife and I went an a big road trip out to North central montana in Havre. On the way out we went rafting, hiking, hit some hot springs, etc. Once we got the the family reunion, I jumped out of the motorhome late at night (while sober) and twisted the hell out of my ankle. I still am gimping around and can't climb. I had x-rays out there in Montana in Big Sandy, it felt like going to the Vet. I am supposed to have a followup here and will probably get and MRI. BTW you can't tell much from an x-ray, only if it is broken. My co-worker had a bad sprain about 9 months ago while playing soccer and still isn't healed and he's going to have surgery soon. I hope mine heals soon cause I had a lot of climbing plans for this summer. Good luck with your recovery Shapp
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Any of the Tasty Bite stuff in the foil bag. Don't even need to heat! like a high class MRE and they are actually pretty good for you from a nutrition stand point
