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Everything posted by shapp
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Searching for Eugene OR female climbing partner
shapp replied to wildbillc's topic in Climbing Partners
No insult intended. Nudy mags are great and they don't tell you to take out the garbage. And there aint nothing wrong with the occasional raunchy personal add. So what gives on Hills Creek? I'll show you my crag if you show me yours? -
If you can climb real A2+ or almost A3 I suggest a run up the Turkey Monster in the Menagerie or go to Wolf rock and have an adventure.
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Always pack a gun when we go to remote areas in Alaska. All of my wifes family lives all over up there. Many live in remote areas and have guns in there living room read to use since there are a lot of Grizz and also moose can actually be a sevre problem. My wife has a ton of stories about moose problems on her walk to the school bus stop. Guns are tools that can also be deadly. A gun used by a compentent person and stored properly is not a danger. In my own personal experience I know a few people accidently killed by gun fire, and a whole bunch of people killed in car wrecks by drunk drivers.
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I have seen some people trying to trade some gear so here it goes, wanted to trad 1 older trango tcu for a brand new alien of any size, wanted to trade one old bent trango hand sized cam for a shiny brand new gold black diamond cam, wanted to trad 2 wild country forged freinds for a whole set of brand new metolious TCUs, wanted to trade my mediocre climbing skills for some bad ass 5.12 on-site crack climbing skills and may be less back hair. Shapp
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Searching for Eugene OR female climbing partner
shapp replied to wildbillc's topic in Climbing Partners
Post a personal add and get a nudy mag! I want to know about hills creek, never heard of it? -
I am going through the same problem right now. A few weeks ago my wife and I went an a big road trip out to North central montana in Havre. On the way out we went rafting, hiking, hit some hot springs, etc. Once we got the the family reunion, I jumped out of the motorhome late at night (while sober) and twisted the hell out of my ankle. I still am gimping around and can't climb. I had x-rays out there in Montana in Big Sandy, it felt like going to the Vet. I am supposed to have a followup here and will probably get and MRI. BTW you can't tell much from an x-ray, only if it is broken. My co-worker had a bad sprain about 9 months ago while playing soccer and still isn't healed and he's going to have surgery soon. I hope mine heals soon cause I had a lot of climbing plans for this summer. Good luck with your recovery Shapp
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Any of the Tasty Bite stuff in the foil bag. Don't even need to heat! like a high class MRE and they are actually pretty good for you from a nutrition stand point
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New to area -Anything Near the Tri Cities????
shapp replied to mortomr's topic in Central/Eastern Washington
Spring Mountain In oregon between Pendlton and La Grande is less than 2 hours away. Check out Kevin pogues site (search for it on the web). Some pretty good trad and lots of sport with more bolts than you have draws. -
I have climbed there and got busted a long long time ago. I have checked into the ownership, you can too on the web at the County website, and at least the access if not all of the land that all the good crags are on is private land. The climbing is pretty good, but don't risk getting busted. I don't think that there is any BLM land any where near the crags. The crags I am talking about are off of McKenzie View Drive.
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Add to the list Bouldering guide to anthony lakes (pretty laim and total inacurate) Spring Mountain online guide by Kevin Pogue (great spot to climb) You will not find anything in the dodge guide of interest that isn't covered in newer guides, but if you must, check it out an major university library in WA or OR. There is a hiking guide to the Eagle Caps that breifly mentions the dihedrals upstream from Wallowa Lake, it has some lame topos that are totaly inacurate. All of the good climbing that I know of up in the coburg hills that is actually in the willamette valley is on private land except for the collumns.
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Fear is total wrong, I have traveled numerous times in the last serveral months to go climbing. I alway cary my rack in my pack on the plain. I never check it. I have never had a substantial problem. The most they have ever made me do is open the top and pull out a couple of cams and biners. I have never had a problem with my nut tool. I have gone climbing 4 times in the last year and done this with zero problems and had a full trad rack with me. Shapp
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Following is the text of an email reply I sent to a friend from the East Coast. I think his message could be considered classic spary, but I am not too familiar with this "Spray" stuff. So I tried to respond to his spray with may spray. Is this the appropriate level of spray to respond to said spray from my friend or not? Here is my friends email with my response following his email (the names have been changed to protect the ego): > > So I guess it was OK for me to pass along your email address, eh? HAHA! Joe is a super great guy, with a lot of energy, motivation, and outdoor experience. The dude's always up for an adventure (just ask him about our backcountry travels in the middle of winter in the Adirondacks!!), and is quick to learn. Oh yeah, he's kinda fond of beer too. > > So, you screwed up your ankle..that sucks the big one. Did you do it climbing? > > I've been sport climbing a lot lately, which is cool because my strength is defintely increasing, but I haven't (save for a few after work, one-route excursions trips) been trad climbing much. However, I did have a pretty spectacular day last Sunday. First thing that morning I ran a 10K leg in a trail marathon, then I headed over to Rumney in NH for a sport climbing blitzkreig. I climbed five routes: 5.11b, 11c, 12c, 11d, and 11c. Needless to say, my ass was worked the next morning. But it doesn't end there! The following morning, my girlfriend and I decide we are going to try to run up then down Mt. Mansfield. WHOW--bigger challenge than we thought. It beat our arses, but we completed our mission in under four hours, and with three stops. > > This upcoming Monday, I think she and I are going to get an Alpine start and hit a wall called Pokomoonshine in the Adirondacks. We're going to get on this 5-pitch 5.8 called Gamesmanship. Then, if time permits (she has to back for work by 5:30, and the adirondacks are 1.5 hours away), we're going to get on this uber-classic route called Fastest Gun. 5 plum pitches of hard 5.9/easy 5.10 crack. I've done it before, but not clean, so wish me luck, and send out some good juju for me Monday afternoon! ANyway, that's enough ranting from me. Take it easy, and I hope you get to hook up with Joe, he's a hoot! > > Jon Dear Jon, Fell out of the motorhome while sober and twisted my ankle good. I thought I would tell everyone I did it while running from a grizzly in Glacier Park. Haven't done too much climbing lately except when I went to red rocks. However, I did put up a new (I think) 5.6+ or 5.6 c/d 7 pitch route in Idaho with no bolts and only had a set of stoper and 5 cams (rigid friends no less), then smoked a joint while standing on one foot and rubing my tummy with one hand and patting my head with the other! On top of it I down climbed a 4 class chimney to the bottom then promptly had to take a shit without any TP! Get your ass out here. I need someone to lead the hard pitches. Shapp
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Who built your house? I bet that is a little more important than you cell phone or credit card. We don't need electronics to survive, but when the trades are gone, like wood work and metal work then we are really in trouble. I predict that the electronic age will be a part of our eventual societal down fall in some major way. Can you fix your car all by your self now? I didn't think so. But take a car about 30 years old, you could tear it apart and put it all back together without any chips or computers, yet those cars got the same gas mileage and nearly the same emissions as many of the new SUVs and sports cars on the road today. The whole sale crisis of identity theft is largely a product of the electronic age, long term data storage issues will be a serious issue in the next few decades since we haven't found a media that can store electronic data for say 100 or 200 years like books. I may be a dumbass, but I can build my house I live in and grow my own food, while you may be able to write a program and type 90 words per minute. I think we should let out a few of those man rapers and stick them in a rehab place right next door to your place so you can get what you deserve.
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Cracked doesn't know wtf he is talking about. Climbing manufactures run more than just a menial assebly plant. Spoken like a true Seattlite computer punching, coffee drinking snob who doesn't give a shizz about the people that do all the hard work out their to make your life easier. BTW I am not a blue collar worker but have much respect for those tweakers unlike yourself.
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Screw the prisoners. They are the ones that are breaking into my car and house, raping, murdering, and molesting. Let them rot! Do you want to trust your life to a biner made by someone like that. Also the prison industries are usually unfair competators with private industry, taking away the job of hard working people. And before you say it, no government agency yet has been able to make the playing field even for this type of competition. Look into it the competition problem before you start your hypothetical arguments. One of the main reasons that OP was able to sell their biners so cheap was the huge subsidy the got on water and power cause the government didn't make them pay their fair share. I believe the reason they had to leave was due to a potential onstitutional ruling although they tried to state otherwise.
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I have only climbed with the lace up Anasazis since they first came out back in the early 90s. Then they stopped making the lace ups for a while and I found a couple pairs of seconds at a used sporting goods store in bend, but now they are back. They rock, fit my feet like a glove and work especially well on granite slabs and thin cracks.
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Maybe in another 200 years after a few more bolt replacements to enlarge the holes up to about 1 inch or so, we could take a few bolts out and have a great 5.15 mono cranking pitch, like beating some of those knife blade yos cracks into free routes. But seriously, use the same holes and go up a size with a good stainless 5 piece. If the thought is to preserve the route then we will have to yank to good belay bolts and add some button head with some paper thin leaper hangers like where there when I first got on the climb back when the world was just an onion.
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solo Climbed on the West side of Hayrick butte by Hoodoo ski area a long time ago while totally baked in winter, big loose plates of rock and scary shizz in my shorts.
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The Book of Life: go find an experienced partner and get off the couch. Book learning is for math not for climbing.
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The poster at rockclimbing.com had it right. He climbed the "West face" which starts out as a bolted/mixed crack pitch then a couple pitches of bolt ladders to the cave. The picture above is the west face. If you turn the arete to the cracks on the second pitch then you are on the NW face. I have climbed both. Many bolts on the west face were 1/4 rivets. Last time I climbed it many years ago you could pull some out with your hands. However, prior to my ascent I believe the late Chris Pernell (may be mis-spelled) replaced the belay bolts and replaced a couple of the aid bolts with some bomber bolts. The face is steep so a ripping fall would be more fun than dangerous. In addition a hand full of machine bolts, a few key hangers, or some bat hooks should make the climb more fun. Last time I climbed it we stayed the night in the cave and I found a new petzel head lamp. The mice are nice and they keep a secret history of smith FA hidden deep within a crevase in the middle of the Monkey's head, but to see it you have to eat some mushrooms and get really small like Alice to climb in there. Shapp
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I am on the grizzly issue. I will post some info in about 2 weeks, I am leaving on a boating trip in tomorrow. Shapp
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I am in and will help out in any capacity that I can. jasonshappart2001AHHHTyahooDAAAHTcom It would be nice to compile a master list of emails of people who would like to go on record as supporting a WCC and who may want to be a member or participant. At me to the list
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I am in and will help out in any capacity that I can. jasonshappart@yahoo.com It would be nice to compile a master list of emails of people who would like to go on record as supporting a WCC and who may want to be a member or participant. At me to the list
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The absolute best solvent for anything remotely organic in nature is white gas (coleman fuel), take a clean cotton cloth and put some gas on their then rup the fabric till the sap is out. Promptly rinse with water and soap and then was the garment per the manufactures instructions. Save the alcohol for post climbing imbibment - or alternatively don't worry about it cause if all your stuff is clean then you aint a real climber
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just keep telling everyone that the place is choss and runout that way people will stay away and leave the good shizzle to the rest of us!