shapp

According to the Interacengy Committee for Outdoor Recreation's latest comprehensive report on recreation in Washington State (October 2002) more than half of all rock climbing in Washington is done indoors! WTF. They need a new category now called plastic climbing cause indoor climbing aint rock climbing.

did you ever climb at the Dihedrals ryland? any info on who did those routes? Know anything about Dunn's Bluff?

http://www.topozone.com/map.asp?z=11&amp...amp;layer=DRG25 Benthos Buttress go get it, please no more Mt. Hood reports

http://www.agpix.com/view_caption.php?image_id=472

Bill, you are right. I know John from long ago, did some rock climbing with him just before he started with RMI in the mid 1990s. He is indeed a stout, smart, and good climber.

That is funny that you mention the Bunny Face, because I actually did this very thing, and hung half a biner about halfway up on the route, I think it was about February of 1997. I have always wondered who found it and what they thought. Probably made for some good noobie spray around the fire that night.

House's route is not on the Matterhorn. I will try to dig up the map showing the general location of the buttress. I believe it is named as the Benthos Buttress. I do know where it is it is south and west from Enterprise and is visible from the valley in some locations.

although I'm no geologist, most of the rock aint granite My description would be shitty limestone or some other loosish type of metamorphic rock

One more thing, there is a small crag that is not too bad up the west fork of the Wallowa upstream of Wallowa Lake about a 1/2 hike from the trailhead. It is breifly detailed at the end of a hiking book to the eagle caps (the name escapes me) there are some bolted/mixed 2 pitch routes and the area has been refered to as green springs or the dihedrals. You will have to find the book to get directions for sure, but you follow the trail to the second sitch back up the west fork, at the second switch back head straight (south) contouring on the slope for about a 1/3 of a mile or so the routes are on the southeastern side where the big corners are. Not too bad if you are in the area, but I wouldn't drive there to climb it. Also some crazy dude soloed the bigest steepest face of the matterhorn over several days a long time ago (read the trip report some place in an old mag) it was reportedly loose, scary, with some hard aid too. The only place I have climbed much there is around the Twin Peaks area and it is indeed adventerous. Bring a bolt kit, helmet and a set of binoculars and you will have some fun there.

There is climbing, but is probably some of the most adventerous stuff in Oregon. Check out Climbing Magazine issue 114 (1989) or issue 119 (1990) for details of a route put up by Steeve House and others outside of Enterprise in the Eagle Caps. Reportedly 5.10 six or 7 pitches and reportedly good by other sources. There is some adveterous climbing in the Twin Peaks area up Hurrican Creek around this area: http://www.topozone.com/map.asp?z=11&amp...mp;layer=DRG100 Bottom line is you aint going to get much info, the area is very remote with a lot of objective danger, and you better have your shit together on adventerous alpine loose rock before you go.

I guess that is the difference, I value all of my dogs lives as much as any person I have ever met. I think there are a lot of people that feel this way about about their horses, dogs, cats etc (may be not hamsters though)

Dru is a funny man, same could be said for climbers that get f-ed up in the mountains. Or people that get cancer, or aids, etc. A few more notes for jain: radios were involved, but infortunately ran out of batteries, there was only one guy (the rappeler) that had any knowledge of rope work, so the rangers on top were useless, however, if the radios were working there was a haul bag and more rope on top. Unfortunately the dog jumping necesitated quick action. Jain: Remember search and rescue would not go, sherif would not go, fire department would not go, parks department apparently did not have the capabilities. So your idea would have been great had one of these teams actually decided to help out. So who is supposed to take care of this? No one apparently cared except one dude! Actually 2 would have been there, but I didn't get a call.

So Kurt, Assuming you weren't a climber and didn't happend to know any climbers personally, how would you have handled the situation. From what I understand the rangers happened to get luck and knew a climber, who knew a nother climber that could go and help. From you posts, I assume that A) you are not a dog lover, possiblly you were bit as a child, B) you are on the search and resuce squad and you are trying to justify not going out and saving the dog cause you don't think it is worth the time. So is it just good bye to old fydo in your book or what? I mean this stuff happens, the kid just lost a hold on the leash and the dog jumps off the cliff. Do you have no sympathy or what?

Based on my conversation with the rescuer the dog was a yellow lab or golden retriever about 70 or 80 pounds about 100 to 120 feet down, with another 60 or 80 feet of nasty vertical cliff below and I think that some heineous death river/water course was below that. The rest of the story goes that the rescuer showed up at about 3:30 or 4am cause he couldn't sleep worring about the dog on th ledge. He wanted to go right away when first told on sunday night. the rangers or who ever didn't want to get there until 7 or 8 am. Anyway he goes up to find the dog with the rangers directions, but directions are wrong. Soe me makes several exporatory raps and jugs before the rangers finally show up and they get to the right spot. Then he raps down and the dog freaks when he gets close and jumps off the ledge, but catches his leash on some sort of snag or protrusion and the dog is being hung in the air by the leash. For some reason the rope barely makes it (figure 8 tied in the end, I think the rope was a heafty but short static line, not a standard 50 meter rope). Anyway, bottom line is the rope barely makes it to the leash snag, but he can't actually reach the dog and with not time to re-rig cause the dog is hanging himself he grabs the leash and hand over hand pulls the dog up to him. Then he quickly throws a but bag around the dog and clips him off, the whole time the dog is totally freaking. Also, the people up top can't communicate cause of the loud falls/river. Basically he dude nuts up and jug hauls this freaking out mutt like some kind of haul pig on crack. He said one of the hardest things he has ever done. Kid that lost the dog and parents ect. were up on top to retrieve their 4 legged family member with much joy and I expect a lot of tears.

TLG, Bottom line is that more people own dogs within the City of Seattle than have children (based on the City's stats), so a lot of people out there should be aware that if something happens to your animal you will be very lucky to have it rescued by anyone. Based on this incident the family was extremely lucky to find anyone to rescue the dog in time to save its life. BTW, I know a lot of dogs that I would rescue first before some people I know.

Yeah you're probably right. They made the right decision in leaving the dog to starve on the ledge.

Two sets of regular stoppers and cam hooks, in addition to your standard free climbing cam rack is all you need. The cam hooks are the single best thing you could bring to speed your aid on LC as long as you know how to use them.

Congradulations to the CC.comer who got a call on sunday night and went up to Wallace falls early in the morning yesterday and single handedly recued the dog that fell over 100 feet down a cliff to a ledge. The Snohomish County Search and Rescue wouldn't do it, the cops, fire department, parks department all would do nothing to save a boys dog that fell down the cliff. From what I understand it was clear from the top of the cliff that the dog had survived and was safely on a ledge.

Put it in a vice, and bust it in half with a big hammer. Take it to a popular 5.7 sport route and hang half the broken biner off a hanger about 1/2 way up.

Those crags in the seven devils are a long way from the limestone climbing on the idaho side of the Snake River just upstream from Oxbow. Likewise Riggins is far away. This thread ain't about the littly bitty rock near Riggins, but the fast amout of limestone near oxbow.

I am amazed you couln't reach the bolts. Most of the newer sport routes seem to have bolts every 5 or 6 feet.

I have not gone to hells canyon this way cause I was always coming from NE oregon, but I know freinds from boise go north towards payette and head off west eventually hitting a gravel road that drops down to hells canyon, which is more direct than going to Baker then over to Oxbow. Should be able to find it on the Gazetter. Also, if you are going from boise then the TG Brewery is defenitely out unless you are making a detour to go repeat some Steve House route our going to the dihedrals p.s. anyone know anything about the dihedrals upstream a couple miles from Wallawa Lake. I found directions in a hiking book. Went and checked it out about 7 years ago. There were a bunch of bolts and I climb a few pitches. Not too bad.

That brewery would make a long detour unless you were traveling from Lewiston, but the beer might be worth it.

I forgot to say that if it was a hot climber chick that lost the cam, Robinhood would pimp that action regardless of the maidens financial status for all the booty!

Robinhood would assess the financial status of the potential cam looser, and if the looser was poor, give back to the poor bastard. If a rich microsoft employee, then Robiinhood would realocated the cam to a climber of lesser financial stature such as myself. Jesus would quickly multiply the cam in to many thousand using his devine powers and distribute to all climbers around the world who would here his message of peace and good handcracks for all! I would keep the booty in good finders keepers loosers be damned tradition!