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Everything posted by shapp
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I can't speak to those you mention, but the Washington State Falcon guide pretty much sucks. For example the section on Darrigton appears to be written by someone who has either not climbed there for a decade or at all. Like wise I used the guide to Arizona and it also was very lame. However, some smaller non-brand name guides kick ass such as the CD guide to Darrington that D. Whitlaw put out or a host of other Washingto guides. I think sticking with the small guides lets local area people get some credit and fundage for their work.
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Buy either of the three, climb for a while, get really good at crack climbing, start climbing hard enough cracks that you don't want to hang out for a long time fiddling in a hex, buy a set of cams, save the hexes because you can't bare to part with old climbing gear, then make your kids learn to climb with only hexes before you let them touch the spendy stuff.
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If Falcon produces one, I am sure it will suck like the Arizona and Washington ones do. I say let the locals produce there own guides to their local spots. May be the local guide sales could fund some Crag maintenance. There are so many small local crags around Oregon I doubt one or two people could collaborate and produce something accurate.
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NOLSe, I was merely pointing out that this had already been decided by my post a month ago. Any one who has climbed there should have been able to recognize the picture. You also don't know me or what I have climbed, what FAs I have put up and the like. For all you know I may not be a climber at all, or perhaps maybe I have climbed for a few decades hunting out all the obscurities of my home state.
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I thought that all chech and polish climbers are so badass that they don't need any gear and that they solo everything?
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OldManRock is a month late and $100 short, more like ripvanwinkle than oldmandrock.
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We baught a new car for an early x-mas present and are selling the old ski wagon. 1993 olds station wagon. Front wheel drive. Straight and well maintained body condition and interior is in very good condition too. This wagon is front wheel drive. 6 cyl motor climbs up the mountain with confidence. Good regular tires and good studded tires on extra snow wheels. Electric everything. Factor rack that will accept most ski racks. New life time alternator. Transmission was rebuilt 1 year ago and there is still 1 year left on the transferable warranty. Drivers airbag. There is about 140,000 miles on this car. To be honest, the odomoter stoped working years ago. Based on our driving habbits I am very confident in the mileage estimate. This car has been a daily commuter for years and is a solid runner. Mileage in traffic is about 25 to 26 and about 27 to 28 on highway driving. I would like to get $2,200 for this rig OBO. 425-353-7451 in evening or email at jshappart@meridianenv.com for Jason THis rig is in everett, I also work in northseattle and you can see it there too.
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Listent to genepires, A directional set as your first piece of pro is the most important thing you can do trad climbing. Nearly all of the people I know who have been injured were injured in ground falls due to zippering from the bottom up. It amazes me how many people do not use a directional for their first placement. Do it cause it can save your life.
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Leave the bong at home for the post climb slide show
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I did the Johny Vegas to solar slab climb this spring and it was great! All day climb, good potential for roped simuling once you get to solar slab. There are other threads on this. There are several variants and start early so you are #1 on the route. I also hiked up to mud springs canyon to check Chuckawalla and it is pretty cool up in there although we didn't do the climb due to time constraints with catching a plane.
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Am I missing something, the dude wanted to know about solo TR TOP ROPING, not leading. All this long discussion of solo leading is wasted words in this thread. If you have to asked on the internet how to do it, I would think twice before trying.
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or Make me an offer
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Vert da man, What is the best approach for the benthos? I new that House route was some kind of eastern block shit, I was thinking the Chech route or some such thing, but really called the Kozak route. For 70% of the population that lives within 20 miles of the Willamette River (yes this is a real statisitic recently derived by a water quality study on the Willamette) it would be cool if you posted a little more history of that particular area and the routes on Benthos, I for one would be interested to know more than the bits I all ready know. Also you have any info on Dunns bluff (North of moss springs, that faces east over the minam?) I did a couple routes there a several years ago and found a few pieces of fixed gear, but have never heard anyone talk about it.
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Tua Savage tele skis 180 somethings, still good shape, good beginner ski. However, the real deal is the voile release system with 10 mm shim and ski brakes. However, no binding mounted to the release system (I am keeping my bindings) for another $10 I'll throw on some riva classics though. Any tele binding mounts easily to the release plates with 3 screws. The release works great and has the optional ski brake package. Looking to get $90 for all. Work in Seattle and live in Everett. Send me an email jasonshappart2001@yahoo.com
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D-best quickies and ABC SLUGS, although cool looking and spring loaded, they suck the fatty
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Satisfaction (Eugene columns) Hydrotube (flagstone) West Face Variation (the Monkey) Liberty Crack (WA pass) West Buttress Blueberry Hill (Darrington) P.S. Jain, you really climbed all those climbs? what about charlies chimney? I think you must kick ass.
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No book reading is needed, it is eagle rock. There are climbs, go explore. If people could put up routes in the 60's without a topo, surely someone could climb a route with some sticky shoes and a hand full of those springy shiny things and the wedies without a topo. P.S. Closed seasonally from January to the end of july for raptors.
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Nope, Eagle Rock, climing - yes
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BillCoe, I am not sure what you are talking about choss? Hells canyon is not choss, wolf rock is not too chossy, I think the S. House route is like wise fairly choss free from the F.A. description, Madras hand cracks = no choss, there are 2 or 3 loose holds on the Phalus though. Was working in oregon last week, caught a nice 20 chinook near elkton, also tested out my ankle on my favorite hand crack at skinners while I was down that way. 9:00am and no one was there.
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Hells canyon should be looking pretty good right now as the temps cool and the rattlers go to bed for the winter. Wolf rock is worth the trip, check out the SW climbers site and it will get you started with more info than most people had when they first went there (I found a bag of nugs there the day after smith was on fire in the previous decade), some one still needs go go check out the (chech route or some such of a bastard name) of some multipitch rock route steve house put up in the Eagle Caps up out of Enterprise. I think it is in a bowl and on a buttress up the ridge and to the south of the entrance to the hurricane creek valley. I know you can see it driving into enterprise. There is a wright up in an old Climbing mag about it. What about those super secret madras hand cracks? Chicketty check the shizle to the pin bash hooking tie off the rusty bolt whizzle on that big old phalus down by Prineville.
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I personally don't remember Lamar being much competition to Burton in the late 1980s, Kemper was starting to come on as a low end dominator, Gunu, and avalanche were doing alright, morrow and joy ride were starting to come on the scene. It has been so long now, someone should right up a history. I personally have been riding avalanche and rossignol boards for a very long time and love both, I do ride plates though so my opinion is in the minority and should be considered utterly useless.
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Big Differnece here DFA, How can you know what you believe until you have read it? You, can know that you are a spiritual person without reading the bible, but can you be true christian without reading the bible? I think not. Maybe a christian in training.
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No panties, so no wad. Point is, if I were in vegas, and I were a betting man, I would take the bet that she hasn't read the bible from cover to cover that is all.
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"She is a teenager standing up for what she believes in" no She is an immature young adult that stands up for what she has been taught (brain washed) to believe, until she questions here own existene, purpose, and mortality latter on in life. More likely than not, as I have found with most believers, they haven't even read the entire bible. Trust me, I went to seminary and know that shiz to be true after many many long, very long conversations with young christians of many denominations.