shapp

Spring Mountain In oregon between Pendlton and La Grande is less than 2 hours away. Check out Kevin pogues site (search for it on the web). Some pretty good trad and lots of sport with more bolts than you have draws.

I have climbed there and got busted a long long time ago. I have checked into the ownership, you can too on the web at the County website, and at least the access if not all of the land that all the good crags are on is private land. The climbing is pretty good, but don't risk getting busted. I don't think that there is any BLM land any where near the crags. The crags I am talking about are off of McKenzie View Drive.

Add to the list Bouldering guide to anthony lakes (pretty laim and total inacurate) Spring Mountain online guide by Kevin Pogue (great spot to climb) You will not find anything in the dodge guide of interest that isn't covered in newer guides, but if you must, check it out an major university library in WA or OR. There is a hiking guide to the Eagle Caps that breifly mentions the dihedrals upstream from Wallowa Lake, it has some lame topos that are totaly inacurate. All of the good climbing that I know of up in the coburg hills that is actually in the willamette valley is on private land except for the collumns.

Fear is total wrong, I have traveled numerous times in the last serveral months to go climbing. I alway cary my rack in my pack on the plain. I never check it. I have never had a substantial problem. The most they have ever made me do is open the top and pull out a couple of cams and biners. I have never had a problem with my nut tool. I have gone climbing 4 times in the last year and done this with zero problems and had a full trad rack with me. Shapp

Following is the text of an email reply I sent to a friend from the East Coast. I think his message could be considered classic spary, but I am not too familiar with this "Spray" stuff. So I tried to respond to his spray with may spray. Is this the appropriate level of spray to respond to said spray from my friend or not? Here is my friends email with my response following his email (the names have been changed to protect the ego): > > So I guess it was OK for me to pass along your email address, eh? HAHA! Joe is a super great guy, with a lot of energy, motivation, and outdoor experience. The dude's always up for an adventure (just ask him about our backcountry travels in the middle of winter in the Adirondacks!!), and is quick to learn. Oh yeah, he's kinda fond of beer too. > > So, you screwed up your ankle..that sucks the big one. Did you do it climbing? > > I've been sport climbing a lot lately, which is cool because my strength is defintely increasing, but I haven't (save for a few after work, one-route excursions trips) been trad climbing much. However, I did have a pretty spectacular day last Sunday. First thing that morning I ran a 10K leg in a trail marathon, then I headed over to Rumney in NH for a sport climbing blitzkreig. I climbed five routes: 5.11b, 11c, 12c, 11d, and 11c. Needless to say, my ass was worked the next morning. But it doesn't end there! The following morning, my girlfriend and I decide we are going to try to run up then down Mt. Mansfield. WHOW--bigger challenge than we thought. It beat our arses, but we completed our mission in under four hours, and with three stops. > > This upcoming Monday, I think she and I are going to get an Alpine start and hit a wall called Pokomoonshine in the Adirondacks. We're going to get on this 5-pitch 5.8 called Gamesmanship. Then, if time permits (she has to back for work by 5:30, and the adirondacks are 1.5 hours away), we're going to get on this uber-classic route called Fastest Gun. 5 plum pitches of hard 5.9/easy 5.10 crack. I've done it before, but not clean, so wish me luck, and send out some good juju for me Monday afternoon! ANyway, that's enough ranting from me. Take it easy, and I hope you get to hook up with Joe, he's a hoot! > > Jon Dear Jon, Fell out of the motorhome while sober and twisted my ankle good. I thought I would tell everyone I did it while running from a grizzly in Glacier Park. Haven't done too much climbing lately except when I went to red rocks. However, I did put up a new (I think) 5.6+ or 5.6 c/d 7 pitch route in Idaho with no bolts and only had a set of stoper and 5 cams (rigid friends no less), then smoked a joint while standing on one foot and rubing my tummy with one hand and patting my head with the other! On top of it I down climbed a 4 class chimney to the bottom then promptly had to take a shit without any TP! Get your ass out here. I need someone to lead the hard pitches. Shapp

Who built your house? I bet that is a little more important than you cell phone or credit card. We don't need electronics to survive, but when the trades are gone, like wood work and metal work then we are really in trouble. I predict that the electronic age will be a part of our eventual societal down fall in some major way. Can you fix your car all by your self now? I didn't think so. But take a car about 30 years old, you could tear it apart and put it all back together without any chips or computers, yet those cars got the same gas mileage and nearly the same emissions as many of the new SUVs and sports cars on the road today. The whole sale crisis of identity theft is largely a product of the electronic age, long term data storage issues will be a serious issue in the next few decades since we haven't found a media that can store electronic data for say 100 or 200 years like books. I may be a dumbass, but I can build my house I live in and grow my own food, while you may be able to write a program and type 90 words per minute. I think we should let out a few of those man rapers and stick them in a rehab place right next door to your place so you can get what you deserve.

Cracked doesn't know wtf he is talking about. Climbing manufactures run more than just a menial assebly plant. Spoken like a true Seattlite computer punching, coffee drinking snob who doesn't give a shizz about the people that do all the hard work out their to make your life easier. BTW I am not a blue collar worker but have much respect for those tweakers unlike yourself.

Screw the prisoners. They are the ones that are breaking into my car and house, raping, murdering, and molesting. Let them rot! Do you want to trust your life to a biner made by someone like that. Also the prison industries are usually unfair competators with private industry, taking away the job of hard working people. And before you say it, no government agency yet has been able to make the playing field even for this type of competition. Look into it the competition problem before you start your hypothetical arguments. One of the main reasons that OP was able to sell their biners so cheap was the huge subsidy the got on water and power cause the government didn't make them pay their fair share. I believe the reason they had to leave was due to a potential onstitutional ruling although they tried to state otherwise.

I have only climbed with the lace up Anasazis since they first came out back in the early 90s. Then they stopped making the lace ups for a while and I found a couple pairs of seconds at a used sporting goods store in bend, but now they are back. They rock, fit my feet like a glove and work especially well on granite slabs and thin cracks.

Maybe in another 200 years after a few more bolt replacements to enlarge the holes up to about 1 inch or so, we could take a few bolts out and have a great 5.15 mono cranking pitch, like beating some of those knife blade yos cracks into free routes. But seriously, use the same holes and go up a size with a good stainless 5 piece. If the thought is to preserve the route then we will have to yank to good belay bolts and add some button head with some paper thin leaper hangers like where there when I first got on the climb back when the world was just an onion.

solo Climbed on the West side of Hayrick butte by Hoodoo ski area a long time ago while totally baked in winter, big loose plates of rock and scary shizz in my shorts.

The Book of Life: go find an experienced partner and get off the couch. Book learning is for math not for climbing.

The poster at rockclimbing.com had it right. He climbed the "West face" which starts out as a bolted/mixed crack pitch then a couple pitches of bolt ladders to the cave. The picture above is the west face. If you turn the arete to the cracks on the second pitch then you are on the NW face. I have climbed both. Many bolts on the west face were 1/4 rivets. Last time I climbed it many years ago you could pull some out with your hands. However, prior to my ascent I believe the late Chris Pernell (may be mis-spelled) replaced the belay bolts and replaced a couple of the aid bolts with some bomber bolts. The face is steep so a ripping fall would be more fun than dangerous. In addition a hand full of machine bolts, a few key hangers, or some bat hooks should make the climb more fun. Last time I climbed it we stayed the night in the cave and I found a new petzel head lamp. The mice are nice and they keep a secret history of smith FA hidden deep within a crevase in the middle of the Monkey's head, but to see it you have to eat some mushrooms and get really small like Alice to climb in there. Shapp

I am on the grizzly issue. I will post some info in about 2 weeks, I am leaving on a boating trip in tomorrow. Shapp

I am in and will help out in any capacity that I can. jasonshappart2001AHHHTyahooDAAAHTcom It would be nice to compile a master list of emails of people who would like to go on record as supporting a WCC and who may want to be a member or participant. At me to the list

I am in and will help out in any capacity that I can. jasonshappart@yahoo.com It would be nice to compile a master list of emails of people who would like to go on record as supporting a WCC and who may want to be a member or participant. At me to the list

The absolute best solvent for anything remotely organic in nature is white gas (coleman fuel), take a clean cotton cloth and put some gas on their then rup the fabric till the sap is out. Promptly rinse with water and soap and then was the garment per the manufactures instructions. Save the alcohol for post climbing imbibment - or alternatively don't worry about it cause if all your stuff is clean then you aint a real climber

just keep telling everyone that the place is choss and runout that way people will stay away and leave the good shizzle to the rest of us!

Here is my $0.02 Let me preface, I do environmental consulting and work a lot with agencies and interest groups on a host of issues dealing with fish and habitat management. I have not ever worked with Alps, but I believe they will likely not give up their hard line. They likely are thinking of the slippery slope - that if they let one route and trail in then how do you draw the line in the future? Personally I think the route should stay for the reasons mentioned above. 1, 5 or 10 small trails like the one going to IB do a fraction of the damage that the mere existence of the road into that are has on the riparian and riverine enviornment of the watershed. I wonder how many of the Alps folks drive SUVs to their most favorite trailhead and live in a four bedroom house when there is only 2 of them that live there? Nearly all environmental groups and agencies I have been involved with are hipocritical to a large degree in some respect or another. However, this is not to say that we don't need them. Environmental groups with all of their hipocracy and hard lines are the only thing that keeps the bush administration from logging, drilling, paving and raping every last inch of ground we have. That is why they have to go to other countries to do it. Sorry for the rant. Mattp, if there comes a time that there is a need for a biologist to assess impacts, especially regarding the Darrington area, I will work pro-bono night and day to make sure access and routes are preserved there. Email me or PM if there is a need.

Yeah, We did the hike into mudsprings canyon. It was pretty easy for the first 2 hours. Once you get into the narrow canyon past the pools, which you see above it is much more difficult. I would definitely give it 2.5 to 3 hours if you have't been in there and you are going for chuckwalla. We didn't do the climb cause we had to catch a flight that evening. We didn't plan on climbing that day and didn't bring any gear. We wanted to checkit for next time and hit the pools for some diving. On Johny Vegas: I think the last 30 ft or so of the second pitch is defenitely not 5.6 but the rest of the route is pretty easy and the loose holds are mostly gone. I did not encounter any holds that I felt were loose. The pro is very good. However I went tooo high on the 3rd pitch following the crack before I pulled around the bulge to the left and missed the belay anchors by about 20 or 30 feet, but there was a nice crack up a little farther and I just set up a natural anchor. I think the climb is super worthy, but you should be a comfortable 5.8 leader or else you will have a little but pucker on the second pitch. Also the gear is a little bit thin on the second pitch crux, but aint too bad. Thats my take on it.

Went to Red Rocks last month. Did Johny Vegas among other things and would like to suggest bumping the route up to 5.6+. Also hiked into mud springs canyon to scope the approach to Chuckawalla and found some good pools to huck into. The flowers were also out.

Dude you might as well learn to cam hook cause there aint no point doing it any other way. Cam hooks are here to stay and if you are going to aid climb you should learn to use them first and save yourself a lot of time. Alex, I do not understand what the hell you are talking about. I never had any ground fall potential. My rack recommendation of two sets of stopers, some small TCUs and a 1, 1.5 and 2 inch friend are plenty of gear. Also I will say that you shouldn't be doing aiding unless you are already a compitent free climber that can place bomber gear. Hell, I'll even go with you and belay. Send me a pm.

Listen to Jim, It is defenitely an adventure area. The Menageria aint smith and it aint flagstone

I don't mean to spray TimL, but I soloed City Park with cam hooks. I think I placed about 10 peices for pro. I have leeper hooks, maybe you have the Pika suckass cam hooks. I didn't usue or see a bolt at the bottom. I set a few pieces in the crack at the bottom right of the boulder and freed up the bolt ladder, tied off two of the bolts to back up my anchor at the bottom and started camming hooking like a mofo. It took me about half an our to do the route. I basically used the cam hooks and crack jummared texas style. Stand up and place the hook attached to my harness. Site down. Move next hook up attached to aiders and stand up. On city park this could also be done with one or two small TCUs at the end of each daisy instead of the cam hooks.

If you are new to aid you better take more than 2 sets of nuts, probably a few small TCUs and 1 each of a 1, 1.5, and 2 inch cam. With cam hooks you should be able to cruz this thing in less than an hour for your very first time. When you get used to cam hooks you could totaly do it with two sets of nuts. If you don't use cam hooks and haven't really aided you better have a patient belayer.