Jump to content

shapp

Members
  • Posts

    1123
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by shapp

  1. Ryan on the John Day I am talking about the intersection of SR 26 and HWY 19, what unit are you hunting? Cheers,
  2. rbw1996, Is the above pic on the reservation or is that some other crag? Also, there are a bunch of pretty good and I think mostly unclimbed basalt cracks of high high quality west of Dayville along the John day river where the road forks and goes either north towards the fossil beds or west towards prineville.
  3. I have a really old climbing mag or some thing that has the Madras area wall on the cover. I think it may be near the warmsprings reservation.
  4. I have a question. X-dome is kind of off most people's redar screen. SO what a-hole climber out there in our little community suggested that X-dome would be a good place to conduct this nonsense?
  5. My wife recently learned to ski in the last 4 years. I highly recommend taking a couple private lessons. Within two season she became a competent black diamond skier and is working on backcountry skills with good results. She had her lessons at Mt. Baker. I think a couple of private lessons will slingshot you up the learning curve very fast, at least it did for my wife.
  6. You are correct, please keep emails under 3 megs and please post a TR
  7. it aint much, but since I fell out of the motor (sober) home in June this is all I got http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=PETEY&Number=352237&Forum=,,,All_Forums,,,&Words=&Searchpage=2&Limit=25&Main=352237&Search=true&where=&Name=3940&daterange=&newerval=&newertype=&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post352237
  8. rbw1966, if you have climbed in Hells then you should know there is a lot more to be had than mere short sporto bolt clipping. There are several large walls and probably more climbable rock than Smith (which aint saying too much). b-rock, takes longer to drive to from where? Alpinefox, you may have a point. I don't claim to be a hard man, but I know some of you Oregonian are climbing some interesting shit. The point is we don't see it on this board as much as with the WA areas. I would merely like to see something else besides Mt. Washington, Sisters, hood or smith cause I know there is some shit to be had out there.
  9. Oh I forgot, excluding posts by Dr. Flash Amazing. Can someone please post some TRs for example: Barad Dur, some thing crazy around the Monument, I know someone must be doing something interesting in the Wallowas (maybe repeat that multipitch rock route that S. House did many years ago), can we get some ice climbers to go out above Strawberry Lake?, I know it is in Idaho (just over the river though) can someone please go out and climb some of the newer long mixed multipitch stuff in Hells canyon and post a TR, can someone please go climb something other than the Pioneer route and give us an exciting TR. My ankle has been screwed up all summer and I need something interesting to read about routes in Oregon.
  10. No kidding around bill, most every time I have done that route, which is many many times, over the last 15 years there has been a missing bolt someplace. Deal with it. Either go back up and replace it or leave it missing to add a little more challenge. Any one who doesn't through a machine bolt and a hook in their pocket when going out to a bolt ladder might just need a lesson and might find them selves backing off. So I see it as a favor not to make a big deal out of it, so maybe a few gumbies learn how to deal with a missing bolt or two. "Oh please please hold my hand and put up a big ass red stop sign at the base of every route warning people that not all of the holds or bolts may be the same as they were yesterday!" On another note, have you ever noticed how lame the oregon secion of this BB is, and this is coming from a born and raised Oregonian.
  11. Jim is right, go have a search for peer-reviewed papers on the subject and you will find a pile that statistically coorelate DDT concentrations and egg shell thickneses.
  12. I have never read more gumby BS in my life
  13. shapp

    City of Rocks

    more like a 10 hour drive from Ptown (not even speeding much)
  14. Wallowa, Imnaha, and Wenaha The emphasis is on the middle sylible not the first and third sylibles. Like wa-LAOW-wa and we-NA-ha and im-NA-ha and the middle sylible is sustained and the last sylible is short.
  15. Oops sorry, Tommy gets it, may Ken RIP
  16. Wouldn't Ken Kesey be more appropriate for an Oregon governor? pr maybe Tommy Chong, I here is out of the pokey now.
  17. How did people learn to climb before the internet? and how did they ever find a climbing partner?
  18. Mayhap this thread should be moved to rockclimbing.com I think learning trad first makes you a better sport climber, and sport climbing first leads to not trusting your gear. If you become a compitent trad climber first under the supervission of a honed trad guru, you won't be scared to fall once you hit the bolts. Conversely if you start on bolts first you will have trouble getting used to falling on trad gear. Maybe this is over generalized but I think it is true. Also if starting sport first is the way to go, then how did lynn hill and john long become such good climbers? Me thinks that after having run it out on many a scarry trad route, and then coming into the sport climbing scene it was much easier to push the limits on the bolted terain since the new bolted routes seemed so much more safe.
  19. best way to learn is to climb, if you want multipitch sport sounds like you will be heading to smith
  20. A -- Production, Analysis and Distribution of Cannabis and Marijuana Cigarettes http://www.eps.gov/spg/HHS/NIH/NIDA-01/N01DA-5-7746/SynopsisP.html see the attached advertisement from Uncle Sam to grow dope and provide joints for the Government. I think george just wants his own stash
  21. The real deal is buying european brands in canada, like DMM or wildcountry or Petzel because from what I understand Canada has no tax on incoming european goods while the U.S. does. Therefore, the price is even cheaper after taking into acount the exchange rate bonus. I have bought from them and had no problems although a freind of mine bought a MEC sleeping bag several years ago that was pretty poor quality worksmanship.
  22. this must be a troll, there is more rock around tucson than in the whole state of Oregon. Rappel rock on top of Mt. Lemon will give you a goud 6 pitch trad fix and all the sport you want is along the road on the drive up (I don't know what the fire did though). Sabino Canyon offers many routes, there are many back country walls right near town, the most famous may be leviathon dome (only 1000-ft or so of excellent granite, gaurded by a couple hour pushwack through shin daggers). Get the backcountry guide and the general arizona guide and you will be set. The tucson area is one of my favorite places to climb. Don't forget to hit the desert museum and Kartchner Caverns down towards tombstone (it is very much worth the few bucks).
  23. So ryland, a little more info on the access. Will public access be allowed or not, I can't tell from what you said. Thanks for the info. Peace
  24. mostly bolted, few trad, mostly steep, fairly solid, 1 pitch, rock similar to umpqua areas
  25. Ryland, Chill - I didn't say anything bout people's private property being mine. I totally agree that we should not trespass without permission on private property. I am a huge private property advocate. I am just saying that as climbers it is laim to hoard a place in an area with limited rock, when there are many avenues to turn that piece of land into a park, preserse, conservation easement, many many things that would eliminate liability of the owners, while providing a mechanism for stewardship. Although, I haven't worked on a project like that for a climbing area, but I have for fishing access and a few land trade deals for habitat preservation, as this is what I do for a job. Also, climbers aren't the ones trashing those cliffs as I am sure you know. It is young teanagers who go up there and party. You aint talking to a newby who doesn't know the area. I grew up just down the road not too far and lived there for 22 years. But don't misunderstand me. I am not promoting people go use private property, and I aint saying I am entitled to use it either, but wish the area could be made public. BTW the butterfly lives way up on the hill, not in the woods, also there are osprey that nest at the cliff, right near the top of some climbs. I wonder if they have a voluntary no climbing season for the ospery nesting season, I don't think they do.
×
×
  • Create New...