shapp

Farmed ice Powderhound referes to in eastern Oregon isn't near central oregon (more than 4 hours away). I know where it is, but haven't checked it out yet.

Was down in Eugene for Turkey Day. Was at the Columns on Wednesday. Was f-ing around and aided Limp Dick. I placed a #4 friend at the very top, stepped up onto it and the the column that forms the left side of the Limp Dick crack shifted. The cam was placed about mid-expansion, when I stepped up onto it, the cam opened up and nearly tipped out. I quickly realized what was going on and started to free climb the last moves to the top. The column in question leans to the left and there is a horizontal crack through the column at mid hieght. FYI - I don't think that folks should aid this route at this time, though I doubt many people do anyway. Shapp

(the following adapted from Utah Philips writings) Time is an enormous, long river, and I'm standing in it, just as you're standing in it, Jim was sanding in it. Our elders such as Jim are the tributaries, and everything they thought and every struggle they went through and everything they gave their lives to, and every route they created flows down to us - and if we take the time to ask, and if I take the time to see, and if I take the time to reach out and experience what he has left for us, we can build that bridge between our world and his. We can reach down into that river which he helped create and take out what we need to get through this world. Bridges from our time his time, and from his time to his elders time. And we all put into the river and we let it go and it flows away from us until it no longer has our name, our identity. It has its own utility and it's own use and people should take what they need and make it part of their lives. In this way, Jim didn't go anywhere, did he?

No offense, but it sounds like you guys need to read John Longs bigwalls book and practice closer to the ground your texas style and maybe actaully have someone show you how to jug before you get back onto overhanging aid. Camped in the back notch cave (planed bivy) in January of 1997, found a fairly new headlamp up there, please describe if you think it might be yours and I can give it back. You don't need nearly as much pro as it looks like you were packing, a couple sets of stopers, 00-1 tcus, a and a few single cams up to about 2 inches and cam hooks and 1 bat hook is all you need to sew it up. Good luck next time

My primary climbing partner for the last 14 years is going to be moving to Cape Town in January and will be there for a year. If anyone could p.m. me any info on capetown climbing and contacts for local climbers that would be great. I plan on making a trip there some time next year to hit the beach and crags for a visit too. Thanks, Jason

Bill, been climbing hanman/DEA routes, not my place to let out of bag, besides some people apparently don't like TRs of "contrived" Darrington routes.

Hold on there there AJScott, I didn't say I wasn't stoked, I just said I didn't think it was as good as some of the TRs I have seen. It was a great route, mostly for the cool fact that is is a striking feature in a great place!, but I didn't think the climbing was all that fun, except for a brief few moves in the book, the twin cracks pitch, and the final summit pitch. I thought the climbing other than these parts, was un-interesting, but totally worthy of climbing. You defenitely do want to be climbing what we been climbing up by darrington.

Hey Bill, Got no real good pics of hells canyon, when I used to go there a lot, was before digital and lost a bunch of the hard photos from a fire, but posted photos for you in the TR for Finger of Fate and in response to E. Oregon and Lee's Peak

While trying to find some more correct info to challenge some of the B.S. that was recently printed on Anthony Lakes in a crappy guide book by a couple of idiots from the west side, I contacted Dave Jensen. Incidently, Dave said he was not contacted by the authors of this recent book (P.S. don't buy it, there are is a ton of inaccurate stuff in there). Regarding Anthony Lakes area, Dave said that he made the first ascents of about six routes or more on the wall to the left of the Lee's Peak couloir. This was solo in 1970 in preparation (removing loose rocks, etc.) for rock climbing seminars and adventure camps which were held at Anthony in the early 70s through a guiding company called Lute Jerstad Adventures. Ross Petrie, who then was managing Anthony, was trying to generate summer business which was how this venture came about. Dave stated that he Didn't think they named any of these routes, and was sure nobody had climbed there before. He remembered that he and Dave Coughlin climbed the much easier couloir you refer to in 1974 approximately, but he had no idea whether they were first. Also a few pics of eastern oregon attached. Elgin Wall Elkhorns Dutch Flat Area Anthony Lakes Area (Gunsite and Lee's Peak The Lee's Peak Slab you refer to:

Here are some pics, not too many of the climbing (din't bring a camera on the ascent.

killer trip, incidently if you are looking to "put up FAs" on perfect lime stone you need only travel east about 6 hours from your home to a legal destination.

No Gay Robots, but did see a bi-curious robot with at 10 inch unit, although I was hoping to see some hot lesbian robot action on the summit. We didn't see any fixed modern gear (other than the 2 pins) but I did weld a smaller WC nut for someones booty pleasure.

Photo by Luvshaker = Triassic Sands?

Not much smoke, but could see the smoke off in the distance near Sun Valley while on top of the Finger, pics to come probably next week.

Trip: Finger of Fate - Open Book Date: 8/25/2007 Trip Report: After first hearing about the Finger of Fate back in about 1995 from a couple Idaho dudes packing guns at Smith Rock, I was looking for a chance to do it. Went out that way for a conference last week, on the way out did a raft trip down the Lower Salmon River (54 miles on the Salmon and 20 miles on the Snake River through lower Hells Canyon). Caught and fried a lot of small mouth bass on that trip, great sand beachs for camping, fun Rapids. Then headed to a conference near Stanley. After the conference, hiked into Hell Roaring Lake friday evening, camped and had trout and fried potatoes (how appropriate in Idaho) for dinner. Got up in the morning and humped up to the Finger. The base is around 9,000 feet which means I was really sucking some O's from living at sea level. Long story short, the route is fairly sustained at the 5.7 to 5.8 level. There is really only one fun pitch (the twin cracks pitch near the top). The jump accross the 4 foot ledge is kind of scary, the final mantle move at the top is rated 5.9 on the available topos, but it is really 5.7 but kind of scary. Overall a fun route, but not as good as the reports I have seen. There are some really good looking cracks on the East side of the formation. Trout fishing at the second lake up from Hell Roaring lake is great! Pics to follow soon Gear Notes: Stoppers to medium size, 3 smallest tri cams (used at almost all belays), 3 smallest TCU's, set of cams to #5 Camalot (new sizes) with a few doubles in the thin hand to slightly bigger than fist size. Actually placed the #5 several spots. Watch for rope snags on the rappel, We climbed with half ropes, 1 rappel of the top, scramble down to obvious trees to west, 1 more double rope rappel to ground. Approach Notes: Get a map and hike in there, we did the longer approach avoiding the high clearance road. Probably don't want to do that if you are doing the approach and climb in one day.

the steep sport route is Boys in the Hood

What guide book are these routes in?

Killer, good to see a great Oregon TR other than the south side of hood or what bend is like! Last time I was at Wolfy it was the day after Smith burned, climbed some routes, took a 25 foot wipper and found a bag of weed at the base of the big arch

Just got back from a trip over to the Goodwill store off dearborn street, was looking for some cook gear for my camp box, but ended up with an old selewa Piton hammer, 3 chinourd angles, 1 swiss (unknown brand) blade, and 1 Leeper Z pin, 1 SMC angle, and a set of old leg loops from France. kind of cool.

9. SHOT IN THE DARK 5.10c/d X From rattle and slime on the "flying camel move" Duane Constantino, Dave Tower, Marvin Wetzel 1979 After the first ascent of this route, Marvin told Duane that he'd seen a cop show the previous evening that displayed 4’ shafts of fire coming from pistols fired at night. Marv suggested this was total Hollywood to which Duane replied "Hollywood, hell!" as he pulled a large caliber pistol from his pack and fired it in the general vicinity of this route. In those days, you could see the rock from the parking area and there was indeed a big flash of brilliant orange, white and red flame! Pitch One: Begin in a small, arching crack near the cedars, then run it out a bit past a hidden bolt to a bolt anchor beneath the first overhang. Pitch Two: Leave the belay and move up past a hole and more 5.10 climbing to pass the second roof, a couple more bolts and the second anchor. Pitch Three: Climb over this difficult roof, perhaps using what Duane called his "Flying Camel” move. Work up continuously difficult rock and sparse, old bolts to the final anchors. Probably original

I heard the slab master whisper that these are the best routes he has ever done, which is quite a statement. More glory should be bestowed on the FA parties (for which I am not a part of). So now the cat is out, here are a couple pics to guide thee, roan wall, and roan wall below and salish in the mist

From what I understand David Tower and Chris were the driving force on Roan Wall and Chris and Todd the energizer bunny (who's last name I do not know)on Salish.

We saw nothing that said no climbing. It doesn't say no climbing on the pamphlet with the park rules that is handed out when you pass through the entrance, nor did we observe any no climbing signs anywhere.

Lance is also correct on the road names for the crack zone, here is a photo not too far from the Crack Zone, one of the D-Town crew who luckily decided to keep the jewels in the purse at the hot springs. Any one else know about this spot and the natural granite arches nearby?

I do believe that the columnar area is called Rainbow Canyon, over the last 15 years or so I find myself driving by there about every 3 to 4 years. This time we actually stopped. There are some sweet cracks there with some anchors on top. Ice pellets prevented a taste. Have you climbed there? interesting rock type that I have never seen before, though it looks like columnar basalt, it feels more like slippery granite.