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shapp

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Everything posted by shapp

  1. Is this site about climbing?
  2. Corvallis is in the right range with the last guess, but wrong peak. I am curious if anyone knows other than Vert. Unfortunately he is going to have to post the name. Shapp
  3. The little pecker that could? Here is one:
  4. mid 1990s elgin wall, note I heard Roxanna Brock freed this at 5.12 (the z-shaped finger crack through the yellow lichen)
  5. Did the exact same thing in Feb 1997 on almost the exact same day of the month I think. Except we were poor, no hot red boots or actaul haul bag. Did you not bring any whiskey up there? we had a big orange dry bag (for rafting) duct taped up with some webbing for a haul bag and there was 3 of us, cold man, it was cold, mice up in the cave, found a new petzl zoom headlamp (at the time) it had some identifying stickers on the battery pack, please pm to describe and I can get it back to you. Shapp
  6. Dave Jensen's and Coughlin's route on Benthos was freed by Elmo Hendricksen and Mark Hauter in October 1988 (from the mans own report in Climbing) at 5.10d named the Bachleor Party
  7. My memory on the location of the Green stone/dihedrals was a bit off. It is here, info was published on this site was published in a hiking guide to the Wallowas from the early 1990s with a somewhat inaccurate topo. The locaton is below. This is one of the easiest crags to get to in the Wallowas that I know of. Try this place out, if it isn't to your liking, you probably won't like the rest. Hiking Oregon's Eagle Cap Wilderness gives some directions and the photo. Hike up the trail, cross the creek head up the trail uphill at second switchback (head off trail up the creek to the crag) Used to be some cairns several years ago. Map Center: N45.22555° W117.24026° Datum: NAD83 There are some bolts up there, but unless they have been recently upgraded they should be treated as suspect.
  8. http://libremap.org/data/state/oregon/ go to this site and search "rockwall" one word. I am surprised you never heard or have seen it, the wall is easily seen from some main roads just out of town. I forgot to mention there are lots of ticks in the spring, and I mean lots. I think late fall or a nice sunny winter day is a good time to go, no ticks and no snakes then. Shapp
  9. What shop so we can steer clear?
  10. NE of town, go to the Rockwall grange and look north. The Rockwall grange is on a USGS 7.5 minute topo, look up north and you will see the cliff band on the map. Mostly 5.10 hard and up crack climbing.
  11. I have talked to Dave a bit, Mark H. some too, and I think Dave's memory could be somewhat off, I think the other routes and Mark's free ascent was done in the 1980s (the ascent info was reported in an issue in Climbing, don't have the time too look it up right now). I actually wrote, but have not sent to the publisher yet, a whole correction of the "new" falcon suck my as guide book, primarily focused on all the f-up up mess they put together on the Elk Horns where I have climbed quite a bit. Scared Silly bare scatches the surface. I like climbing in the EH much better than Wallowas. I might also mention that Steve House was in on some of the Benthos Buttress routes along with some others I believe. It will never be a destination area, just a curiosity in the middle of a great part of Oregon, seldom visited by most, but talked about by many. Might as well keep driving to the Sawtooths if you want more climbing, you'll spend a lot more time exploring for routes than climbing in the Wallowas/Elkhorns although there are some jems. See if you can't find Dunns Bluff on a 7.5 minute topo for a little cragging, then maybe wander around a specific Flat named on the topo map to the East of Angel Basin (I promised I wouldn't reveal the name), Check out the Elgin Wall, try to find your way up Dave's lines to the left of Lee's Peak ramp/slab on the buttress, then go over to Spring Mt. and wonder WTF happened there, then try as you might to get directions from Mark to some limestone up eagle Creek and another crag up Rock Creek. There is some stuff out there, go explore and find out for yourself like climbers used to do in earlier times before crapy dime a dozen guide books Shapp
  12. I wonder if the proliferation of 25 foot tall bolted routes had anything to do with the bolting restrictions? Shapp
  13. Benthos is not up the creek from Wallowa Lake, I don't know of any bolts for sure at Benthos, although I have heard tell of some recent development up there where bolts may have been used (in the last 2 years or so). The bolts on The Green Stone were installed, or maybe upgraded, in the early 1990s I think
  14. Is that the "farmed" ice up Lostine? There are some couple pitch routes up the creek from Wallowa Lake along the main trail, then after the first switch back, go off the main trail a 1/4 mile or so to the Wallowa Lake Greenstone/Dihedrals area. Was the rock you are talking about on a crag that had like 3 main big dihedral systems, also with some face bolts? Shapp
  15. I remember hearing something about a ski shop in seattle area that has a lot of cheap closeout skis, but they don't/aren't allowed to advertise them. Anyone know what shop this might be? Thanks, Shapp
  16. is this Rob that used to live in La Grande? friend of Rich? also lived near Dolores Colorado? if so PM me - Yo Shapp
  17. Ol fat santa braught me the new Red Rocks climbing guide book by Jerry Handren. Red Rocks is probably my favorite climbing area and I have all the previous books. Jerry's book is probably the nicest put together climbing guide book I have ever seen anywhere, way better than the previous standard of Watts smith rocks book.
  18. Yes, Yes, but only if you don't have the time to drive another hour to Hells Canyon
  19. luckily the best petroglyphs are hidden away in the remote canyon , there is one particular are with hundreds such as these posted below, it is the best petroglyph site in all of Eastern Oregon from what I am told. We spent about 3 hours looking around, and I have photos of probably 100 of these.
  20. regular hardwires good, don't like the release system, kind of hard to get back into after a release (based on using the older Voile release plates. I have the regular hardwires without the release and like them just fine. Mounting is not hard, there are lots of thoughts on this subject, but just go with putting your boot pin holes ontop of chord center with your toe and heel centered over the ski. You should be able to get these mounted without any special jig or template if you can use a ruler etc.
  21. Some one recently inquired about Leslie Gulch down in the Owyhee Country of Oregon, more like Idaho than "Oregon Cascades" so I thought I would post a little photo TR from this May when a friend and I floated the Lower Owyhee, drank a lot of booze (a 5th of Bend distillery gin in about 1 hour between 2 semi-coherent animals, did a lot of hiking, ate a lot of food, scoped a lot of crags, and general went cave man - river style. There are a lot of crags down there, mostly choss, but some looking halfway sane and very cool with some good looking crack lines that appear fairly solid for free and/or aid for several pitches - Yo, going down next spring (water levels providing) again to do less scoping and more climbing.
  22. does this post have anything to do with a certain moss infested crag near Darrington?
  23. Yes, 8.5 hours or so, probably spring and fall. Not much guide info except the link above. There are a buch of crags all round the area that look good. Floated the lower Owyhee this last May and scoped some lines. While most of the rock in the lower Owyhee Canyon is total choss, there are some fairly sane looking lines with defenite potential for some aid and trad besides weld tuff Leslie Gulch festivities.
  24. There are no threatened or endangered fish upstream of Culmback Dam. There are no anadromous fish upstream of Culmback Dam. I am not sure where Rat is getting his info. Upstream of the dam there are rainbow and cutthroat trout (and potential hybrids of these two species), large scale sucker, brown bullhead (non-native introduced species in Spada Lake), and brook trout (non-native species). Prior to construction of the dam, the best available information indicates there was a natural upstream migration barrier that prevented upstream passage for anadromous fish (i.e. salmon and steelhead, and anadromous cutthroat trout and bull trout). These are the fish facts by someone who knows via direct survey experience.
  25. I believe the manimal and his man-whore have improved it recently
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