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shapp

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  1. shapp

    Slick Rock

    The start to the original route is to the left up a left crack - traversing right accross a right trending dike (runout) to a dish/two bolt belay. Someone for an unknown and uneeded reason decided to retro bolt several of the original route belay stances. There is a bolted start to the right (shown on the photo above). There is also a route that goes more or less straight up from the bottom to the 2 wide cracks in to the right of the origional route (you can see the wide cracks in the photo above). and a runout mixed route to the left of the original route. There is lots of oportunity to explore other new/forgoton lines too. Shapp
  2. I have seen several routes with lead bolts, some very short routes in the 25 foot range with lead bolts that look easily top ropeable with trees on top. Sort of Dallas K. style. There also look to be some steep routes too that don't look like mounties routes either and look pretty interesting, and a few cracks.
  3. Any one know anything about routes at the upper end of lake cushman near the road?
  4. if you want meth whores, you are in luck. I lived there for a few months the winter of 1996 and didn't see any thing climbable or even rocky, and I drove practically every forest road around. However, a few spring Chinook are showing up in the lower Umpqua so maybe fishing might be better than climbing. Shapp
  5. Its a hike down, not up, but Drift Creek Wilderness is not too far (towards the coast from Corvallis). I likey this spot.
  6. My setup is nearly identical to the 3 piece setup above, but it is only 2 pieces. My setup is superior to the 3 peice setup above because instead of the wooden carpeted bracket along either side of the bed, I rivetted 1 inch angle iron, which is less bulky. the front and back of my pannels are stiffend with 1/2 inch angle iron as well so they don't sag at all. The pannels I used are MDF which I glued berber type carpet on top. I hind sight I probably would have made 3 pannels instead of 2. Also make sure you have a nice tall canpoy so you can get your bed up high enough to slide large plastic totes under. An extendable boat hook is nice for reaching way back to pull out things that are under the deck. Good luch
  7. Yes it should and it should be called Hanman's Chloroform Playhouse!
  8. Bonnie Springs is right at redrocks, I haven't stayed there only gotten drunk on one windy/sprinkly night and made it back to the regular BLM campground. Waitress gave us several rounds for free. Plus she entertained us by putting a blinking keychain down her white Skirt! Next time I am down, I will just pony up and stay at Bonnie Springs with redrocks right out the back door. http://www.bonniesprings.com/motel.html
  9. Mark's monkey jungle love Dungeon?: Fuck Fuck Fuck, mother mother fuck, mother mother fuck fuck, noich noich noich, 1 2, 1 2 3 4, noich noich noich, smokin weed smokin weed, doin coke drinkin beers, drinkin beers beers beers. Rollin fatties smokin blunts, who smokes the blunts, we smoke the blunts, 15 bucks little man, put that shit in my hand. If that money doesn't show then you owe me owe me owe. My jungle of love. Oye oye o. I think I want to know ya, know ya. yeah what?
  10. I don't know about 1 year olds, but we used a hammock a lot for 1.5 to 3 year olds at Smith. Find a couple trees, boulder/crack/trad pro combo etc. to string it up. They love it for a napy-poo
  11. Not a surprise, since there wasn't a snow pack last year. This year should be a much longer season although its hard to tell exactly how the melt will occur. FYI - Looking to do the float between 500 to 1000 cfs (low water more technical conditions)to avoid people, hit it latter in the season to hedge bet on better weather too.
  12. Looking for climbers, who happen to be boaters to take a Crazy Baboon Ass trip this May or early June dependant on river flows, to float lower Owyhee River stretch (3 nights) then explore the Leslie Gulch area for a few days to do a little adventure climbing (not the hardcore sport stuff). Must be a boater and competent trad explorer, preferably have your own boat (raft or kayak)and be able to compitently row/paddle class 3 in very remote setting. PM me
  13. Unless you are a total badass super-G mofo, with new wider skis (say in the 115 to 126 mm shovel width)you should go with a ski that is shorter than you would get for an older ski. something from 170 to upper less than 180 for your size. With a really fat ski >125mm at shovel you could go even a bit shorter for BC turns.
  14. Unlike downhill/randonee bindings, if you have any mechanical inclination at all, it is easiest and best to mount tele bindings your self. Any ski tune book at the library and about $50 worth of gear and you'll be waxing and tuning your own boards the rest of your life. Dakine as a pretty nice kit for about $40 with directions, few dollars for a cheap iron at K-mart and your set! If you need further assistance with the bindig mounting, p.m. me and for a beer I can show you all about it.
  15. Spouse had PRK eye surgery about 6 months ago and is having really bad dry eye and discomfort. Anybody out there had this problem, recommendations? This problem is really cutting into the ski season. Thanks for any help! Shapp
  16. Hey thats my secret Darrington project with V-1 protection.
  17. I know a guy who has skied some of the east facing couloirs.
  18. I have flown several times for climbing trips since 9/11 always carried my full trad rack and every thing else except rope (not enough room) on the plane, flying from Seattle to Vegas, Phoenix, Anchorage, Oahu, and Boise with not one problem. I have never even had to empty the gear out. once or twice someone opened the top and looked around a bit.
  19. Thanks for the comment, but I would really like to keep this on-topic. P.S. I pretty much know all there is about snowboarding, I started snowboarding in 1988 and also used to race, but started to ski when my wife learned to ski in about 2000 so we could be at the same level, still bust out the board on epic pow days inbounds!
  20. Looking to get a new pair of skis I have read the literature, What is your real world favorite all around tele ski (if you could have just 1 pair) for: crud, pow, groomers 60% lifts, 40% backcountry
  21. chopper sick balls!
  22. Farmed ice Powderhound referes to in eastern Oregon isn't near central oregon (more than 4 hours away). I know where it is, but haven't checked it out yet.
  23. Was down in Eugene for Turkey Day. Was at the Columns on Wednesday. Was f-ing around and aided Limp Dick. I placed a #4 friend at the very top, stepped up onto it and the the column that forms the left side of the Limp Dick crack shifted. The cam was placed about mid-expansion, when I stepped up onto it, the cam opened up and nearly tipped out. I quickly realized what was going on and started to free climb the last moves to the top. The column in question leans to the left and there is a horizontal crack through the column at mid hieght. FYI - I don't think that folks should aid this route at this time, though I doubt many people do anyway. Shapp
  24. (the following adapted from Utah Philips writings) Time is an enormous, long river, and I'm standing in it, just as you're standing in it, Jim was sanding in it. Our elders such as Jim are the tributaries, and everything they thought and every struggle they went through and everything they gave their lives to, and every route they created flows down to us - and if we take the time to ask, and if I take the time to see, and if I take the time to reach out and experience what he has left for us, we can build that bridge between our world and his. We can reach down into that river which he helped create and take out what we need to get through this world. Bridges from our time his time, and from his time to his elders time. And we all put into the river and we let it go and it flows away from us until it no longer has our name, our identity. It has its own utility and it's own use and people should take what they need and make it part of their lives. In this way, Jim didn't go anywhere, did he?
  25. No offense, but it sounds like you guys need to read John Longs bigwalls book and practice closer to the ground your texas style and maybe actaully have someone show you how to jug before you get back onto overhanging aid. Camped in the back notch cave (planed bivy) in January of 1997, found a fairly new headlamp up there, please describe if you think it might be yours and I can give it back. You don't need nearly as much pro as it looks like you were packing, a couple sets of stopers, 00-1 tcus, a and a few single cams up to about 2 inches and cam hooks and 1 bat hook is all you need to sew it up. Good luck next time
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