shapp

another not in Oregon

Big Tree at darrington is nearly all trad and has bolted belays, except for the fist pitch wich is a slung tree and it is 4 to 5 pitches depending on how you climb it, actually climbed it on wednesday this week plus some other routes. Help finding the belay on the 3rd pitch: stay on the left of the flake/crack, and left of the first large bush you encounter, or if you go right at the first large bush head over the laps to the right, make a slippery move to the right to gain the far right flake and aim for the higher large bush above, another bolted belay is just up and right of this higher bush (aim for this higher bush on the next pitch if you choose the lower belay first). a few small TCUs and extras on the .5 and 1 inch cams are helpful for the 3rd pitch. J

as I posted on 11/26/07 Was down in Eugene for Turkey Day. Was at the Columns on Wednesday. Was f-ing around and aided Limp Dick. I placed a #4 friend at the very top, stepped up onto it and the the column that forms the left side of the Limp Dick crack shifted. The cam was placed about mid-expansion, when I stepped up onto it, the cam opened up and nearly tipped out. I quickly realized what was going on and started to free climb the last moves to the top. The column in question leans to the left and there is a horizontal crack through the column at mid hieght. FYI - I don't think that folks should aid this route at this time, though I doubt many people do anyway. Shapp

Something from Doug Scott a long time ago regarding bolters: something to the effect of (not exatly): To those who perforate the rock with such intensity and disregard, it must be assumed they make poor lovers.

Is it me? or does the grade of Fat Crack increaes linearly with the number of People that love the Tvedts routes at flagstone?

Climbed Dreamer yesterday, Hanman lead all pitches to get stoked on a 3 day climb coming up soon. He is a manimal. The trail into dreamer is not in good shape at all, much worse than just a couple years ago. With the extra length and blowdown, figure twice as long to hike in, around 2 hours for a midget, quadrapalegic, and a caveman. Shapp

Climbed Dreamer yesterday, Hanman lead all pitches to get stoked on a 3 day climb coming up soon. He is a manimal. The trail into dreamer is not in good shape at all, much worse than just a couple years ago. With the extra length and blowdown, figure twice as long to hike in, around 2 hours for a midget, quadrapalegic, and a caveman. Shapp

no you're worse, you said it Shapp

I'm a bad boy

a few to follow

how one could be solid on 5.8 and iffy on 5.9 is a mystery to me. Go to 3 oclock rock and get on all the 5.8 and 5.9 routes, he should be fine, big tree is a good 5.8. Shapp

Here is a photo from the net http://rewinn.com/9943/stolp-11.jpg

was over by Chewelah last week and obseved some nice walls (quartzite mt.) any climbing on this crag?

There is a crag near Bald Mountain that aint choss, search this site for posts by Rod Fox.

from mount vernon, look west to the big hill with radio towers on top, drive to Mt. Erie

Fell on about a number 6 wild country stopper placed blind on the first pitch (right hand variation) of West Face Variation Monkey Face at Smith. Climbed the pitch several times before, usually never placed any pieces until after the traverse left. This was the first piece of the pitch, on the traverse I broke a hold while foot shuffling in the left traversing crack. I fell backwards and upside down about 12 feet. Rope caught me upside down about 6 feet from the deck. Lowered to the ground and immediately fired the pitch. Glad I din't wait around to think too much about it. Now I always climb the left hand start!

punk kids? or punk middle-aged dudes with drills? Think Spring Mt. Oregon bolting. Older does not equal wiser in some cases.

rattle tale second pitch is 5.10c

I'm back from Owyhee. I want to cut up some shit!, if the "Big Meat" can't make it down the road, there is some serious work to be done. Also please post pictures of the Stickets in the Pickets testing thread. Shapp

2nd pitch of Rattle Tale at Index. slightly overhanging hand crack that traverses to the right 5.10 b/c which almost makes the numbers cut.

Climbed it in January 1997 (cold) with Clay and Nate from OSU (now have lost track of these guys) and bivied over-night in the cave, post belay anchor replacement by Chris Purnel (spelling?, RIP) pre-all other old gear replacement. The rivets and button heads were kind of scary, you could take some out by hand for inspection then easily replace! I found a headlamp in the Cave (new petzel at that time) please describe the sticker on the battery pack and I can get it back to you as it is old and out of date, but still works good. Shapp

regular route topo published in R&I in the 1990s (I think) climbed this twice and also climbed once more or less straight up to the double wide cracks to the right of this route.