shapp

Got a pulley already, looking for a static line. Thanks, what is a PMP?

bump

Looking for a static line (about 150 feet +/-) that can be old but not frayed or cut, which I need for non-climbing use. Also looking for 1 standard climbing pulley. I am in the Everett/Seattle area. Looking for local sale only (not interested in shipping). Jason jshappart at gmail dot com

mild liquid laundry soap in the tub. Shapp

I would like to do the 5.8 "finger" crack again. I think the best way is to climb a couple moves to the only good hand hold, throw in a 0 and 00 tcu, move back down and climb the face to the right past the thin crack.

Uncle shapp got her climbing shoes but she prefers the bare feet. Obviously not my kid, I am not near that agro. Shapp

Trip: Smiff Roxs - Solar Date: 4/16/2009 Trip Report: Had some climby climby at smiff roxs weekend befor last. Hit up Solar. Looked at it since about 1994 but never climbed it due to the scramble/walk off described in Watts (1992). However, we spied some chains at the top of the final crack pitch from the ground while clipping the bolted routes up with the kids at the base. So the more mature and hairy males decided to go climb the nice looking cracks above now that it is easy to get down. Climbed the Phonecall from Satan for the first pitch, then the short 5.8 finger crack (holey shit that is a hard 5.8, couldn't get my fingers in it), then the 5.9 final finger/rattly hands crack to the top. Very fun, surprised you don't see more folks on it. Forget the #3 cams for the final crack, it is more like 1, 1.5 and 2 inch cams. Seems a little harder than most of the other 5.9 cracks at smith. More like 5.9 at Index. Shapp The photographers at the bottom didn't get any photos of the last pitch climbing

I don't think pre-teen or elderly has anything to do with it, but incompetent yes. I am from Eugene and don't know anyone who thinks they are anything but dumbass climbers with a drill and way too much time.

In terms of density (# bolts to square feet of climbable area) I bet smith has way less bolts than Flagstone or Spring Mt. Lets call a spade a spade, the Tvedt's are largely responsible for the B.S. at flagstone.

To Follow up on Checat, which crag is the most horendously over-bolted crag in the state, one to take as an example of how not to develop an area. A close race between Flagstone and Spring Mountain. Now I am not saying there aren't good climbs there, but somewhere along the way things spiralled out of control with any sort of reasonable bolt counts and route spacing. Shapp

I know and have climbed at the crag in question (the Lack). Why bring it up? To stoke an ego or an ethic that is lost forever in Oregon as a whole (though it is my ethic in general also). Better to be humble and and climb by example than to yell from the top of the hill, "hey you are wrong, be like me". my 2 cents as a majority trad climbing dirt bag

I have flown a few times out of Seatac since 911 with a full trad rack and had no problems, although I have always put my rope in my checked bag due to space in my caryon (i.e. easier to buy a rope if it gets lost than a full trad rack) Shapp

Snaileye won't blow his own horn, but he has spent a lot of time climbing in the Valley as he used to be on YOSAR so listen up to his words. Like you he did a lot of climbing at smith and other areas before going to the Valley, where I am sure he lerned a bunch about what he didn't know from climbing at Smith etc. Shapp

Oh my god, if you need to develop some routes PM me. There is a lot more stone in the opposite direction of corvallis within about the same distance that could sustain a lot better quality of routes. Shapp

however it is spelled, Becky would f**k him up I think this will be sent to spray any minute

I don't know, but if it came down to a scrap - Becky would f*** chounaird with one of his own long dong pitons and steal his woman to boot!

Very Sad, On the positive side, we all are going to meet our end in some way, lets hope it is later rather than sooner, but after being in the area many times, I can hardly think of a better place to meet ones end. Jason Shappart

Is this a get naked gig? or maybe you rappel down, apply caulk to window while the guy caulks his girl? This could have some potential!

I think you are either way over estimating or you need to pick a new sport, but I would bet you got the estimate way off. You will probably start out slow, but after about 30 feet, you will probably get yourself into a rythm and move a lot faster. You can probably do it in less than 2 hours for the first pitch, and that would be moving like a snail. Provided you can place stopers in C1+ placements you will be o.k. and should be way faster than 4 hours, unless you have to do a bunch of backcleaning cause you placed way too much gear or didn't bring enough stoppers in anticipaton of sewing it up. Give it a go. Shapp

This is about like asking who you should poke for your first time, ask 100 dudes get 100 answers, but the best chance for success in either case would be to go with one that is "easy" and that is not too bad to look at.

If those are at red rocks, I guess Inti Wattana

I did attempt to ski Fuji back in about 1996? cant remember. Lot had quit an adventure, rain on snow, then got cold and had to wait out a blizzard in the shelter near the base. Tried skiing the following day, lot of up and down small ridges/features on the way in kind of sucked. I think we were way off the normal approach

Chicken Rock for the pic of Jim? I can't wait to see what that photo from 111 is!

It is the Owyhee and the feature is named, and is the backside (away from the river) of a "popular" scramble peak. We went up the scary way. On the photo of Jim, I guess Eggs Over Hard - north face of Hen Rock.

2 different climbs not at smith and far appart. Hint, One is a dirt/mud scramble only accessible by boating, one is a bomber hand crack on granite (not in the Wallowas, but not far from there). Mud scamble: Granite: