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shapp

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Everything posted by shapp

  1. WTB In good shape at reasonable price a Pika hand drill (2 set screw model). Looking to by one local (about Mt. Vernon to Seattle area) so I can look at it before buying. You know you aint going to be putting up any routes with it cause that takes too much work, so give up the goods. Thanks, jshappart "at" g mail dot com
  2. Please note that this crag used to be in Oregon Country, but when the men back east drew up the state lines, they got confused and put it in Idaho.
  3. Try grabbing the two slopers over the lip and straight arm/layback leaning to the left, as you do this throw your right foot up to the highest good nub you can get your foot onto just over the lap. Now don't linger - in one fluid commiting move, layback and pull up on the slopers and roll up onto your right foot - 5.9 at best (p.s. I still can't get up the 3rd pitch without a hang).
  4. Any one new get out there after seeing this thread?
  5. avoid driving/climbing there Friday, Sat and Sunday or your drive from seattle will surely be long.
  6. That crack looks a bit like the start of the second pitch of Ultimatum A.K.A the "Bloody Gash".
  7. If you can pull off one well protected 5.8+ move, the west buttress (blueberry route) on blueberry hill/exfoliation dome would totally meet your requirements (2 hours or less from seattle) 9 pitches, solid granite, excellent scenary, 1 hour approach, camping near by, not too many people, mostly 5.7 and under, true summit, great views. Might be a little exciting for your less experienced partner. All trad gear, including anchors except 2 lead bolts. Description and topos here: http://www.seanet.com/~mattp/Darr/dome.htm http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/154443/exfoliation-dome.html http://www.summitpost.org/route/166910/west-buttress.html You will likely be the only ones on this route, or the Becky route on Liberty Bell (but that is a farther drive), in Washington Pass as other suggest below, but there will be loads of people there!
  8. shapp

    Hell

    I think the problem stems from the fact that Hanman did not bring his camera and has to get photos from unclebeeman, a technological disaster. And also he is distracted with new routing at one of the largest single chuncks of granite in the PacifiC NW.
  9. There is less moss now (these are a few years old)
  10. t_rutl, we are not talking Index here, but a totally new crag near Darrington. The majority of the props should go to Hanman as he found it and has done the most work.
  11. No he didn't: As the dude would say, "new shit has come to light" in this case 47 new pitches! All goat ropers and goat gropers may want to check out http://www.rcnw.net/forums/index.php?showforum=41 for some new stuff in the Other Areas forum The D-Town Masters of Moss Found a Crag without Choss With multipitch goodnoss To delight them! Edited from origional message as suggested by Hanman: topos attached to save download bandwidth on Daryls website, download the topo here, check daryls site for discussions. 4074.pdf
  12. I like goats
  13. Mud Creek Canyon, Red Rocks
  14. You show your foolishness by refering to Moonshine, one of the most polished cracks in the park. I say good for them over-tapers, better to over-tape and be trad climbing than wearing prana and clipping bolts with no nuts. There are so many many many cracks in obscure places way off the beaten path at Smith, why don't you go get some of that instead of posing on the frontside thinking you are a hard man (I aint no hardman, just a perpertual average climber, content to climb 1000 foot 5.9 and under routes the rest of mylife). I am going to harzard a guess that I have been climbing cracks at smith longer than you have been able to wipe your backside (although my profile says Washington, I was born and raised in Oregon and spent a good chunk of my free time at smith for many years). I find it funny that you don't have too many TRs (none?) posted for any climbing area showing your burly un-taped man-hands. Tape is aid, shoes are aid, chaulk is aid, guidebooks are bigtime aid, and I also actually like real aid climbing. Get out there and do some climbing and show'em how its done. "Posturing and absurd folly" has been going on at smith in waves ever since I have been climbing there and probably long before. After all it is a climbing park, there are lots of other places to climb in Oregon, where you have a good chance of not seeing anyone all day long. PM me if you need some education on other places to climb in the OR. p.s. just having a little fun
  15. I don't think that stick clips and tape are the same issue. A hemopheliac with big balls can ditch the stick but not the tape. One deals with phyiscal mutulation the other with mental toughness. I find that by using tape and climbing more comfortably, I can focus my remaining brain cells more on my balls thereby making me climb better.
  16. to get there, Follow the rabbit
  17. One can only assume that if don't like tape at smith, then you must like to pleasure your backside with some sort of spike encrusted shaft.
  18. A few pics of something other than mount hood from May 2009, soloing a crack named Daryl's Dilema, and a big Steins Pillar-type feature near Birch Creek Ranch on Owyhee River, OR. Who wants to go climb it?
  19. shapp

    Hell

    I heard a tail that Hanman and Unclebeamen made a trip to hell, we want to see some pics. Shapp
  20. So we are supposed to build a bridge to save someone from wading the river? Sounds like a tragic accident, but no reason to build a bridge when a perfectly safe one already exits. I will fervently oppose a brige at north point. Total waste of money, and it will cost a lot when you consider all aspects of environmental compliance, design, construction, maintenance, etc. It only takes less than 30 minutes to easily walk around.
  21. Time to move up the road on other BLM land, they can't put up no camping signs unless there are additional special land use designation, which there are not. They also can't charge for camping further up the road until they install facilities (aka picnic tables and crappers).
  22. RodJ, you clearly do not get the irony in my post. I've been climbing at Smith since a little before the Watts guide came out. I can still find climbs in the Watt's book that I haven't done, and get on something new nearly every time I go that is in the 1992 book, which isn't that freqent anymore. I am sure glad you got something going to "keep us going" until the new book comes out. Nice sobb story on the wages, a lot of us out there in the climbing world spend a lot of time maintaining the crags and putting up new routes and never seek any conpensation or complain about lost wages. Please do not persue a bridge at N. Point. The walk over is barely a stroll as it is. What a waste of money that would be. I would much rather prefer a wetbar at the base of the Westface Variation, or access over the aquaduct bridge! "Even thought it wasn’t a Falcon Publishing quality publication" that is some funny shit, linking "quality" with "Falcon publishing". They turn out the biggest piece O crap guides I have ever seen, after being Smooted in Washington, Bolf and Ruefed in Oregon, and I don't know what in Arizona
  23. Dam, I wish I had that a couple weeks ago. We tried to find this climb, 5-gallon something?, but ended up on Solar instead and having to place some crack thingys.
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