ken4ord

I second the 24 of April, I may be gone in May.

I saw a real good one over on the highway near Cle Elum. Not sure if there was any gore, but it was a good one. Well this ding-dong managed to wedge his SUV up under an over pass at the Roslyn/Cle Elum exit. I think you can still see the tire tracks if you are driving West, at least you could see them last fall. Check it out if youa re going by sometime.

For good girlfriend routes and stuff to get your feet wet on in the Near Trapps and a bit further down the road: Tipsy Trees (.3) Minty (.3) High Exposure - which lives up to its name!! (.6) Whats that Hans Kraus classic? Horseman? (.5) Do those routes, then re-assess whether you want to get on anything harder! Horseman was my third lead, my first 'onsight' (funny to think of a 5 being an onsight lead). It was March and I was eager to get on the rock despite it was 30's and snow flying and on the ground. I was so sketched, the hold were big but my fingers were frozen and I could feel anything. I thought for sure I was going to pitch and have my first leader fall. I really didn't notice the part where it was your girlfriends first time climbing, I probably wouldn't take here up High E. Like someone else said it is for 5.9 climbers great exposure first time doing it is pretty scarry since the crux figuring your way out from underneath a roof 200 feet off the deck. Once you have done that you have to beat the burn on the slightly overhanging wall to the top. Such and awesome route. Oh yeah a 5.12 to work on do Kansas City. Your girlfriend can belay on the ground, it is a very short approach (one of the first climbs in the Near Trapps), and it is stout 15 foot roof with hard fingers.

I agree with RUMR bring the tri cams pink and red I found the most useful. Directissma 5.9 Directississama (sp?) 5.10 Modern Times 5.8++ (one of my favorites) Gelsa 5.4 Hounds of Baskerville 5.10 Shockley Ceiling 5.6 CCK 5.7 or 5.9 (direct) Nosedive 5.10 Retribution 5.10 Damn dude there is a ton of classics there, this just a tiny few that I can think of. Have fun. Oyyeah if it is raining on head to the old lime mine. They house hard overhanging, sort of grungy sport lines, but if you are desperate to climb they are there. Also there are a lot of lines that stay reasonably dry even when it is raining Bonnies Roof being one of them.

Jim most definitely. The Gunks rocks for exposed crag climbs. There is no other place that I can think of where you crank through 5.6 roof with feet cutting out and everything. Canary is way more tame than a lot of climbs out there.

Well in my book PBR isn't making a come back, it has just been standard fare. Usually have a few tall boys in the fridge, how can you go wrong 6-16oz for under $4.

Dood if you make up there take photos, love to see what type of that area is in. Didn't even think of the bike option while we are waiting for the road to be opened. Hmmm maybe the following weekend.

Being new to the area and having a memory like a garbage can (toss shit in with no organization), the only ones I can think of are. That wide "5.9" over at Index right of Princely Ambitions. I know 5.9 is not considered hard for many, but I have yet to see anyone pull it off and I have seen three different parties on it and back off. There is route in WA Pass that bobbyperu and Uncle Tricky did, that had a nice pointy tree wanting to ram up your ass if you failed, (doods what was that again?). Then there is that 5.11 beastly looking thing up on SEWS(?) it is in the Nelson guide. There was one I saw up in Omak that looked hard as hell, overhanging hands to off-fist, I don't know if it has even been done. In state where there is as much rock as we have there is probably ton more, but I have only been here less than a year and just getting to know the area. Again who is going to come up with the list for 11-worth area??? I wouldn't mind a wide crack day challenge in that area.

Yeah that is right make rope prices more ridiculusly priced than they already are.

Yeah the gear is good on the first pitch except the start and at the finish it is ok. And like CB mentioned there is stemming possible most of the way up. I just find the stemming and jamming not that secure because the rock is all greasy under the roof from years of blood, sweat, and tears.

I hear ya on that one. That is why I skipping the Hen tonight and going to stay home and grill herb-mustard coated chicken, with some grilled veggies, and salad. mmmm mmm good. Damn grill food is good. So when are we doind the PC BBQ CF (chow fest)?

Yo RC, your wrong, there is plenty that is wide and stout here in WA. They justaren't really at Leavenworth.

I have to agree with Lambone on this one, I really didn't find that two moves hard or scary. I remeber doing the move around the corner and looking up to see if I could see this scary move, not realizing that I had just donw it. IMO the first pitch was harder and scarier.

Yeah the is going to be a great show. I going to see the Ninja crew down here in Seattle on Weds. freaking can't wait to

I hear ya on that one. That is why I skipping the Hen tonight and going to stay home and grill herb-mustard coated chicken, with some grilled veggies, and salad. mmmm mmm good.

Yeah I got burnt too. Frick it was hot up on Rainier on Saturday.

Damn have fun, I have always wanted to get out there and do some of those routes. Looks like fun.

Anchor your fixed line at the start so when you rap you can haul yourself to the start of the pitch. Then aid the pitch again back cleaning as you go. As you are ascending up you can use fixed line as your anchor.

Yeah like jja said. Last year they opened it up a little early, I think they had it plowed out around the 20th if I remember right. They should have an estimated road opening date somewhere on the park website and they are actually pretty good about updating it. Otherwise with the gate closed you may want to add a day to each end of the trip.

So it sounds like there is quite a few wide cracks to link up. Who is going to post the day challenge? Let's get a list going and see who sends first.

Nice TR Fern. I am hoping for good weather this weekend up there. Originally we were planning on going to Smith, but if it is like it was this last weekend, I really want to get up to Squamish instead.

I was looking on the board and then all of sudden in the Main Index I noticed Spray was gone. I thought cool finally there might be more talk of climbing instead of Spray. Then the next thought was damn all the Spray addicts are going to be spewing all over CC.com. Then I realized it was just moved, I think it is good move, who cares about spray any way? Spray away .

Pssst, why?

I know I am not worried, hell there is plenty to do, even if I don't get on my board, which I find hard to believe that I wouldn't. I know that I will have fun that weekend, even if it is just chilling out and drinking beer.

tricks of the trade