ken4ord

Yeah it was gettin' a little humid up there last night at the end of the fourth. Partly cause of all the de alkehol that I was sweating out of my system and the weather system we had above us. Good time though.

I don't know why more people use the an Overhand knot aka Euro Death Knot for rapping. It is simple to tie, easy to untie, pulls smooth across rock, no back-up knot needed, and it is strong. Been using it for years and never gotten the knot to roll, even on wet icy ropes. I tend to tie longer tails than what others have recomended, but thats me.

I agree with that. Being new out here, when I heard about that, making required climbs inorder to move up throught the ranks, I just thought how stupid. 1st don't we have enough hoops to jump through in our daily lives. 2nd I thought it was funny that the same group publishes the book called Freedom of the Hills. Doesn't sound like freedom to me, then you got fees to be a member. 3rd there is something to be said about making smart decisions, like maybe not going for the climb or turning back earlier, that doesn't seem to have any reward within the Mounties org. Snafflecock, (damn whats up with the name, sidetracked), might be some spectulation, but I am sure it had some play in the decisions that were being made up on the mountain if indeed they were there to graduate. Hope I never graduate, just keep learning from each experience.

I personally thought all the media hype about a rescue, was pretty funny. As far I was concerned there was no real story. Looked like they walk out on there own. Come on please, shit happens. That is the great thing about climbing mountains, the only thing that is predictable is that moutains are unpredictable. There has been plenty of time where it was suppose to rain or snow the whole time on an intended climbed and it turned out beautiful. I watched the news report, read the article, and spent a night on Rainier in a snow cave at 13800 in whiteout conditions this year. I guess maybe if I flipped my cell phone on and called someone, maybe we could have cameras waiting in the parking lot and have all this smack talk about us. BTW Matt your right, sometimes we look at the weather and it suppose to be wonderful so you make decisions that are not the best. Traveled light, no tent, summer bag, minimal clothing, luckily it just made for one misserable night, though I figured I had several more in me. It is just part of the game, playing in the mountains. Thanks to any of you that had seen our Dead Guys Ales that had melted out, and you didn't drink them, you guys are the coolest.

Damn right this sounds like a cool party weekend. Definitely going to mark my calendar for this. What can be better than a beer and climbing weekend. Suggestion for a game is the stick jumping contest, better preformed/played when you have consumed copious amounts of alcohol.

Just hitting the gym hard this weekend. On Thursday though I shrunk Outer Space into 4 pitches, soloed up some nasty dirty climb on the South end of the face (booty), and did some ridding the cliff's walk down descent of all kinds of rap slings all over the place. Been doing a lot riding too. How about yourself?

Hey Bobbyperu, thanks for the info. I know we talked about climbing this week during the week, so what's up? Prusik info is a back up plan I would do by myself, but I would rather go do something longer and harder. I can't Monday or Tuesday (sort of glad need some time off), but Weds.-Fri. I am free.

Hey All looking for info on Prusik. 1) How is the view? Are there good views of that area, can you see Dragontail, Stuart, Sherpa? 2) Approach? What is the best approach for the West Ridge? How many miles? 3)Descent? What is the easiest way down? In the Becky guide it shows a 150 rappel, is there anyother way? If there isn't can the rappel be broken into two short ones? Thanks, Ken

Yeah all this fee stuff is bullshit. Out in NH they had the same thing, of course they don't charge the RV driving, polluting, littering people at thier road side parking lots. They don't stick some of kyakers with parking fees from what I have seen. The big camping/parking area near Index for the Moto riders didn't seem to have a fee box. This thing about sticking selected users fees while the rest get to enjoy the benefits, is crap. In NH I just never bought a pass and threw away all the ticket I got. I imagine that I will do the same here. I could see if it was fair and all user were paying the fees, but they're not, so I am not going to pay. I liked some of the ideas that I heard about making copies of the passes and reusing day passes, those are good ideas. I might start doing that so I don't have to throw away tickets. The whole getting worked up about it is silly. What's that going to accomplish, nothing. Tearing down signs smashing in windows sounds like something I feel like doing, but as someone I believe mentioned, they'll just increase the fees to cover the expenses. I just stick my middle finger in the air at them, and go on my merry way.

I wouldn't skip over Exxum Ridge. It can be crowded, but for good reason, it is an awesome route. We were there in early July and we were the only ones on the route. The lower section see a lot less travel that the upper part and if there are crowds on the upper part you just go around then. Symmetry Spire, SW arete(?) 5.6. Is a beautiful climb. There is a cool variation on the top that is maybe 5.7, cut out left onto a vertical wall and you find great exposure and wheat thin flake to monkey up. CMC Route on Moran. Get an early start. The canoeing takes a little time, the approach is long, and it is a pretty long climb. It is pretty easy, me and my buddies went really light (shoes, chalk, food, and water) so we were able to leave late in the morning and get back to the car before dark. As for the weather debate, from the web cam shot it is looking boney (not much snow) to another times I have been out there, I tend to go in July too. Theres my 2 cents. Have fun.

Someone mentioned Mt. Louise. Defintely do that, there is no walk up route which makes for a spectactular summit. You can do any of those routes on it in a day, but get an early start. The approach is well traveled hiking trail, around 7 miles round trip if I recall right. I did the Kain route, one of the many he established in the Rockies. First 1500 is 4th class, then rappel onto the ribs, traverse and climb another 1500 for the summit. The decent is pretty straight forward rappels (on the western flank) and some 4th class down climbing, well travel which makes it easy to find the way down, though it look like a maze after the first couple rappels. Close to Banff so you can enjoy a brew afterwards and celebrate an awesome climb. There is a 5.7 on Chinamans (one of the easiest routes on it, the left hand side of the face, well established approach trail from the dam) that is right above Canmore short approach (.5 miles) aprox. 1500 to 2000 feet to the summit that will be shared with tons of tourist since there is a pleasant walk up it that you use for the decent. Down below the dam above Canmore is an awesome little sport area. Climbing is on old limestone coral beds. Wild pockets, cool pinches, just plain old fun, above tourquoise waters. Good rest day activity. Checked out some of the other sport crags in that area, in my opinion it is one of the better ones. Can be crowded though cause of the short approach. Park at the damn and walk down. Athabasca is beautiful. I did Silverhorn, kick myself in the ass for not going for the North Face route. Though in August it might be a little late for it. Also they are snow and ice climbs, no rock. Temple looks stellar, haven't been on it though. Haven't been on any of the other routes you mentioned, but what I know about them is they are all classics just beautiful lines. Mount Louise I didn't run into anybody on the approach or decent, we had an unplanned bivy on the mountain so it was day with not a soul on the mountain except for my partners and myself. Athabasca and Chinaman's we had other parties on the route, on Chinaman's there was climber caused rock fall, on Athabasca no worries it was all snow and ice on Silverhorn. North Face would be a different story, with a rock band high. Castle Tower (?) I believe that is what it is called has intigued me because of the hut that is halfway up the mountain and requires climbing to get to. Also if you are up for a backcountry experience, there is a peak up NE of Jasper that has a long approach, but there is a small climber hut to stay in and a beautiful peak (I forget the name and my guide books are still packed away), but there is a ridge travese that looks so cool and there is a ton of possibilities up the face for 1000 to 2000 rib/face climb on pretty sound looking rock, we got rained out, but still enjoyed the serenity of the area. Dude have fun, the Rockies rock.

Yo Iceice, Just moved out a little while ago. This place rocks. When you get out here check out Index town wall, so far it is the only place that I have found stateside that have similar ratings (i.e. stout climbing). It was a mindblowing experience, just like the first time I went to the Gunks and started cranking through roofs. Indexx has some steep ass cracks.

Hey my buddy and I did Liberty, along with everybody else and there mother. Actually we were there before everybody, anyways that's not the point. I threw together what I think is a cool slide show that is too big to send to everybody and their mother. Wondering if any you have a website that wouldn't mind having a 4.9MB show posted on it? Also here is a link to a slide show from Festiglace 2003 in Quebec. Great eye candy and music. The website that it is on was my bible during the winter time in New England. Enjoy http://www.neice.com/Articles/Festiglace2003/festiglace2003_Final_a1.swf

Well from the sounds of it I will be retuning to that area to do more than just one of the routes there. It seems like is a lot of worthwhile stuff. Another question someone mentioned rap anchors. What is the standard descent off the mountain? Also how long of an approach from the car to base (say the toe of the cliff)? Damn I a sound like beta hound.

Thanks Bug, Backbone with the Fin looks really cool. Definitely within my level. 5.9 6 inch crack sounds like a grunt fest though. Probably going to stick with Serpentine, 20 pitches is a lot to pull off with a new partner in unfamilar terrain, though it looks like there are opportunities to bail onto easier once you get going. What is your opinion, do those large sloping ledge systems in the picture make it possible to bail from Backbone somewhat easily?

Red red wine. Dude I am new here and don't know shit, except for what I see. Haven't seen the area just going on heresay. Heard of Balanced rock and the pics look great in the becky guide, but to tell you the truth my head is swimming with images and routes, that I have know idea where they are in relation to what, just know I want to climb, climb, climb. You know what I'm saying. Ok it's time to crash out.

Will do MattP, but when there is partner a route, I will be there. What else is right there that is cool. Cause Serpentine will be one of the two we are there. So speak or forever hold you peace. God damn I am punchy tonight, must be the wine.

I think that's what it is thanks, cbs. Yep, just got done looking at the guide and it sounds like the route. Cheers,

Did you look under the couch cushions? Thats always where I found lost stuff. In fact, at MEC reading area, they sewed the cushions to the couch just to prevent us dirtbags from looking under them for lost stuff. Too bad cuz I found a Gri Gri there once. Well I probably won't be looking there since I don't hang on the couch too much. I'd rather be on some mountain or cliff face.

Any of you loco locals know why I can't find Serpentine in the guidebook? What is the peak name or what guide can I find some info on it in?

This is just a test, to see if my picture shows up on my post.

I am tired of the Westside, really need to get to the mountains this week even if it is an alpine scramble by myself. Realistically I really need a couple of days to recover, but for WA pass I would make the exception since I am dying to get up there. I would be worthless cragging on Tuesday and more interested in a mountain route. So if you can go to WA pass I would plan on that otherwise I am going to find meself a moderate peak to climb.

Can you go some other day this week? I am so spent right now that I need a day to rest and to make the drive up. Let me know. I can go Tues., Wed., Thurs., or Fri.

Yeah dats da chit I'm talking about. F-man that sounded like a great day out. Heres to you guys . Oooh now I dying to get to that area. Just anywhere at the pass since I haven't been there yet. Anyone, any route up for going up there next week, during the weekday (5/16-5/20) that is?

E. Face of the North Peak put up in '51. 5.7 grade IV (Love those Becky 5.7's ) How bout the north face of Baring? That goes at 5.10 and definetly an alpine setting. No glacier but lots of route finding and brush, similar to Mt. Index. Yeah North Face of Baring looks cool. Anyone been on that. An up high roof traverse looks like fun and plenty of exposure. I guess fun if there is gear?