ken4ord

What are you talking about all I see is alot stems, wheres all the buds.

Are you prepared for the thump? From the base! With only one stop about 4 pitches from the top, it was constant climbing, my partners all climbed very fast. About a year prior, sat at the base of SS and literaly watched a guy solo the entire climb from base to base in one hour. I can believe that I soloed that climb, without ever being on the route before. Actually it is the only Red Rocks climb I have done. Once figured out where I was going it took me about twice as long (started up the wrong corner at the terrace, traversed accross the face to correct myself, had pass some wait for some folks to set a belay inorder to pass them and then worked on some gear I found on the top). Fun climb. As for Simu-climbing, my buddy and I belayed out the first two pitch of the complete Exxum and simu-ed the rest. Another good day. I agree with Chuck about the Infinite Diss, I have wanted to do a complete simu of that route.

Well when salvation finally hits get on dat shit and post some real East Coast report insteady of a V7, I went camping above tree line type report. Jay have you done Repentence or Remission yet on Cathedral? What about the Blake Dike and Fafnir on Cannon? Your salvation will have to stick around a bit, but if it does you should find your Way in the Wilderness off the Kangamangus Highway. What about biting Dracula and picking on Hobbit Coulir? Forget Mount Washington, dood pull em down and put em up. I miss east coast ice and would really like to see some good pictures.

And thats scary because..... Probably cause he's attracted to Top man.

Well at least you are one step closer and making progress. I am sure it will happen soon enough.

www.clements.com Oh yeah, you don't rock climb and if you were injured climbing you were actually injured walking.

www.clements.com

Alright Holmes, here is some pictures. I looked around for my notebook and I think it is in my storage unit back in Seattle. Sorry I can't offer much more detail, but at least the pictures might help you get oriented up there. This view is from the north of the Chimney Pond Basin, up on Cathedral Trail (I think it Cathedral Trail), so from the pond it will look quite different. Go around right side of pond to approach climbers trails going into the basin. Ok this picture is from the east from Pamola Slide trail. Here is a picture of North Basin wall. As you are hiking up to Chimney Pond you will see a trail cutting off to the right for Blueberry Knoll (sign posted). From Bluberry Knoll it is pretty obious where to go. Moto what the hell are you talking about, I haven't a clue?????

Very cool looking line. Nice job. :tup:

Dude that is freaking great. I know I love my parents and all, but now-a-days, I don't want to be living with them, it must feel great to be back in your own place. Congrats!!!

Starting the year off with a hike up Killimajaro, making sure to bring the wiskey and weed for the walk. And some rock shoes to do some bouldering since trying to do a technical route on the mountain is near impossible. Hopefully get to the Rwenzoris and get on some techincal alpine. Establish more routes on the crags I been developing. Build little Simone her first climbing wall so that as soon as she is walking she can start climbing.

Hey Winter, The only guide book for the Katahdin area is up at the rangers camp at Chimney Pond. Technically you are suppose to register for any rock climbing excursion at Chimney Pond, make sure to bring your 10 essentials and helmet or they might not let you go, they are pretty strick, it is pretty rediculus. If you climb in the Chimney Pond basin it is pretty hard to skip checking in with the ranger. Probably the most classic route up there is the Armadillo. It goes at 5.7+, several hundred feet of slab climbing broken up with blueberry ledges (5.5), to the right hand side of an obvious triangular feature, climb the chimney for 1 pitch (5.7+), to the base of nice hand/fist crack (5.7+) protects well with #3 Camelot, follow crack to arete, then the arete to the Knifes Edge (4th class easy 5th). The Knifes Edge is not as extreme as people make it out to sound. It is a hike. The are other routes such as the The Diamond (5.9) and The Flatirons (5.9) that are in Chimney Pond basin that look good, but I would suggest going to Hamlin Basin. In Hamlin Basin (ie north basin) there is a 1000 foot wall that has some great climbing on it. It is NW of Chimney pond and can be seen as you are hiking to Chimney Pond. The great thing about it you can easily forgo visiting the rangers to discuss a climb. Good clean granite considering it may get climbed once or twice a year. I done a few routes up there a while ago and drew up a topo and all, but I am not sure if I still have it. If I find it I will post it. On that wall you can find anything from 5.6 to 5.11. The left side of the wall is easier and not so steep and lots of ledges the right is little less than vertical. Basically everytime I have gone there I just go to the base scope a line a go. (Note: Black Fly is an ice climb) There is another wall that is call Klondike, it is up and over Hamlin Peak to the west. I have never been there but it is rumored to be about a 1000 feet. It is a difficult area to get to since there are no trails. Bushwhacking on the east coast is quite difficult and if you are not familar with the area I would reccomend against it. Also you would probably need a backcountry permit which are hard to get. There are a couple of other smaller cliffs, but they are very remote and again would need a back country permit. Dude have fun. If you are skipping visiting the ranger for a climb definitely keep all signs that you are a climber inside the pack. Also definitely get at the gate super early, I think it opens at 7am but it best to be there first thing. Well is sounds like you already been to Acadia, crazy to hear about the earth quake. Also for some good climbing and Acadia has some great stuff. Don't bother with Otter cliff's that is where all the bumblies go and there are usually masses of tourons there. For some hard exciting routes go to Great Head, the easiest climbs there are 5.8-5.9 and they up from there to 5.13. Facing the cliff on the left hand side there is an awesome 10+ blunt arete, I would highly reccomend. Check the tides before you go! Mt Champlain Precipice has great climbing there to beautiful cragging with ocean views. I had many of times out on that cliff climbing There are a ton of classic routes there. There is also several other cliffs scattered on the island. There is a rock shop in town where you can probably get a guide book and or info.

Festivus is not all it is cracked up to be, you try wrestling 300 lb dude for 5 minutes. I was exhausted at the end of 5 minutes.

CascadeClimbers.com » Forums » Spray » Spray » The Joy of Pooping I think this sums up the whole cc.commie experience.

Me, you mofo pee spot! I gotta good excuse though, it cause my internut convection sux arse!

my bestest friend in the whole universe just bought 5 acres. she has had horses before but not for several years. i am so excited. I rode when i was a kiddo, just bare back and western etc. no lessons or anything. I can't wait to learn to ride for reals. I hate to say it, but I.....I really hate to say it, but here it goes....I agree with CBS. Holy shite did I really say that? Well anyways, I find freaking riding a horse way scarier than being in the mountains. I don't really like being on the back of some beast that has a mind of its own. Since I am not a horse whisperer I have no freaking idea what is on there mind. Any animal that is bigger than I am weary of. I have heard of pleanty of accidents to know that it is not for me. Oh yeah back on topic, kevboner got a lot of you beat for being the most annoying.

Mine would have to be in Maine, after 3 years of slogging (15 mile ski) up to the cabin at Chimney Pond, we got a break in weather and snow conditions to do a Barber ice climb on Mt. Katahdin. It was a 16 hour day complete with postholing to our arm pits at times, 1500 of ice, spindrift avalanches, 50-60 mph winds during the day, -10 degree temps, swimming and tunneling up a 100 foot 70 degree snow section that took over an hour to climb, follow by vertical discontinous parasols (very cool and unusual climbing standing on a parsol swinging upside down into the on above for a undercling type placements, then swinging into the topside, mantel and repeat), hitting the ridge at dusk seeing a storm in the horizon that hit us on the descent with 100 mph gust that knocked us over several time and more post holing to the cabin. Plenty of weed, wiskey and Indian food was our reward from the guys who were watching our progress from the warm cabin, that is when they could see us inbetween spindrift avalanches.

Right here I am expert..... hmm, but I got high and can't remember what I am expert at.....

Ha ha, shit your Chicago story remeinded me of a time I went to visit a friend on the USSN Nimitz (one motherfucking gigantic nuclear aircraft carrier). Anyways he was restricted to the ship, so when I was out on the boat visiting him we drop some hits. Once we started peaking he announced to me he was going awol. Well anyways to make a short story of this one we got chased around the boat by the MPs for about 15 minutes running up and down stairs, across the flight deck and down halls. By the time they caught us I was pretty amped out. They threw me in the naval jail for while, and kept asking me if we were on drugs, which I kept denying, eventually they let me go, but tripping in a cell is not fun.

What, I flew out from Maine more than a few times to go climbing. Why should that throw up a red flag? I think whether or not a party gets into trouble is going to be more dependant a parties attitude and experience, than whether they are on vacation and have a set window period to do their climb.

You guys suck! I miss ice climbing, I am freaking jealous.

Before the ice season started I use to make 2 inch PVC handle to do pull ups on that seemed to help. You can do straight pull up just hanging on the handles, or off set one hand on the bar the other on the handle. The times I tried leashless, I made sure to do a lot of shaking out so that I wouldn't over grip.

I used to love going to Camp Slime, above the Near Trapps in the Gunks. A short little walk puts you right on top of the Near Trapps, with a great view of the valley. When I used to go to Cathedral and Whitehorse in NH for a weekend a lot of the time we would camp in a near by firetower. Grab some Indian food and couple bottles of wine after a few mile walk chow and check out the 360 view. We used to bivy at the base of Summerville Lake wall in NRG. Fun times hanging out on the big rocks, , going for evening dip, and checking out the stars. I will second the climbers ranch in the Tetons. Great times hanging out cooking and drinking after a good days climb. I think my friend and I freaked out some European non-climbers one time that were bunked with us. We had just gotten back from a day climb hiking from the ranch up the complete Exum and back to the ranch. Completely drunk and wasted from the climb, all we could say was "wassssup!!!" back and forth, laughing our asses off. Only the two of us could find the humor in our wassup conversation. I have had numerous good times at Hidden Valley in Josh. One of the better times was hanging out with a couple we met and was climbing with. These two met in a ice cave in Nepal and then arranged a trip each year so they could see each other. We found a cave near our campsite and cooked dinner, drank several bottle of wine and shot the shit all night long. All of the alpine bivies I have had in the Enchantments, there are some nice places out there that are just beautiful. I forget the name of the mountain, but it is up near Jasper, a beautiful tri-angular face that rose up 1500+ feet. After a long ass approach we had a ACC hut all to ourselves, it snow during the night which foiled our climbing plans, but good coffee and views of a golden face with patches of fog hanging on made up for it.

Ah shit, E is drinking again.......cheers :brew:

The "cliff-climber" who wrote that doesn't apparently get out much and seems unaware of the vast numbers of lines composed of closely-spaced bolts on faces and occasionally adjacent to "faults and cracks". And where did he come up with the "1 percent" number??? What I think is stupid in is argument is that plants don't grow on nice clean faces, they need those "faults and cracks" so that they can take hold, with the exception of lichen and some moss. There is very limited real estate out there for plants on cliffs and we as climbers are looking for the same space for our routes. That 1% that we trod on as climbers is the same space that plants are trying to call home. Cliff ecology is really cool. I did a literatrue review while I was in college, it was interesting. Thanks Geek the Greek for very interesting post.