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ken4ord

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Everything posted by ken4ord

  1. OffWhite, you are sick man! Good God what the hell is wrong with you? Let see if we can get this thread back on topic. I think this stuff is what JoshK was talking about.
  2. Hey Sara sounds like you got a good start with the cams, I would reccomend definitely getting a full set of nuts of the same brand otherwise you might run into some overlap on the sizes. Also practice with them they quite useful and versitile if you know how to place all types confirgurations such a sideways, threading and stacking. Though like Alex said most of the time you are going to reach for the cams, but you can definitely run into places that will only take nuts. Here is some other reasons you will want them to be standard equipment to your rack, if you run into a situation where you need to back off a route nuts are much cheaper to replace than cams. Also I tend to reach for the cams when leading because they are easier to place, but when I set up a belay I like to use my passive pro so that I still have access to my cams on the next pitch. Smaller wires can work on bolts that still have the nut on them but missing the hanger, (how to do this, push the nut down the wire, put loop around bolt behind the nut, then slide the nut up, clip and go). I have never really been a fan of the DMM nuts. I tend to like simpler nut like Wildcountry rocks. They are easy to stack and I like that there is more surface area and they are cheaper (ok they don't have that nice DMM finish but they going to get all scratched up anyway). A set of brassies or steel micros are useful on harder routes. Oh the rack that I have for the PNW and that I use everywhere I climb minus the 4 and 5 camalot. I don't always bring all this stuff up with me but it will at least make the trip to the crag. 00 TCU 0-3 Wildcountry Flex Cams 0.5-5 Camalots Fullset of Wildcountry Rocks 1-2 brassies 1 Loweball
  3. I have been living in Rwanda and I have yet to take any prophlaxis. Basically I just do all the other precautionary steps like bug dope, sleeeping under a net, long sleeve shirts and pants. I have yet to get it. There is only one of the prophlaxis that causes pychotic dreams, at least that I am aware. Most people really get freaked out about the dreams. Then there are individuals that I know that love how crazy the dreams are.
  4. For a good pump I used to do tool swing with dumbells. It really helps with swing tools, but for drytooling it might not help that much.
  5. What the hell are you talking about, you mean to say you made sense out of 13 pages of drivel? Please those of you just tuning in spare yourself, whinning about mean people of cc.land, being cheated, blowing, in Rome, sucking, swallowing, neutrinos going where they shouldn't go, bitches, props, extra milk, grammer, yo' mama, eating lead paint chip (btw it is bad for your health no matter how good they taste), Cobracommander not having a face, guy's pussy that hurt, Wham, a1phanum3r1c c0mb1nat10n5, oysters, flyingpig getting his ass bitch slap by his friends, Choada most excellent never seen before link on cccom, Dennis Brown, being the lesbian love child of Britney and Jessica, abusers controlling themselves, 8 Bugs TR's that we missed out on, MattP seeing both sides of the story, H3770 K1TTY d1551ng, nasal spray, chestbeatingFox-Self-loving-his-narcisistic-tool, Mischka, alpine bivying with Gary's hand (I imagine the rest of him was there, not that I want to imagine, fucking gross), Pete Doorish was Trask, nordic walking and Renton the best kept secret.
  6. All you have to do is listen to there conversation. If their conversation mainly consist of spraying and sophmoric humor, there is a good chance you are seeing a cc.commie out in the wild. To make a positive identification listen for key words that set them apart from other climbers, these words will most likely be used obsessively, they are snaffle, sausage, spray, horsecock, rasta bivy, prana tops and yoda.
  7. So did Pusher change their name, I couldn't find their holds anywhere? I did remeber that I do like Nicros holds too, so I order a few of them. So what is your buddy's company cause I am still looking for some more large slopers to add to the wall?
  8. I took back a few pair of shoes, I am sure the kids are happy with them. I don't don't do the climbing with the kids unless we are going out to a crag. Most of the time they go climbing at the school where some Belge had put up a climbing wall (rocks embedded in concrete). Thanks for the suggestions on the holds. I like Pusher holds a lot too. Maybe I will order a set.
  9. That has been my problem in the past.
  10. Too green to be mexican, looks very kind.
  11. Not really if you are on the road for a long time also he wasn't the only one who was smoking.
  12. It looks like it but, I believe there is one mushroom that can look like it, not sure if the look-a-like also grows on the West coast. I am by far not an expert, I just like . I have never eaten these though, suppose to be the most potent of halucenigenic shrooms, but also believed to have cause some deaths.
  13. So what are your favorite climbing holds and why? Right now I am really digging Franklin hold because of the texture and they are light. I also like the Metolius holds that I have mainly because they are pretty good deal and texture alright.
  14. Yeah thats funny! I hope he at least bought that bush a nice dinner. Very nice! That looks like a lot of fun Definite kudos for the ground up, no bolts or excessive scrubbing on the ascent. On top of it all you got to do some tree wrastling on the way up.
  15. Crack crankin' Alright fewls, I need some suggestion on adding a crack. So I have heard a few of you spew about adjustable cracks. So you got any pictures to share or ideas? I found a place for 2x8's, so I was thinking of getting a few and adding some crack to the side of my wall to vary my workouts a bit. I don't want it on the main part of the wall, they seem sort of useless there and it is hard to make them deep enough. BTW I have yet to get bored with the wall. I thought I would but still constantly coming up with new problems. I just wish someone was around to push me, All the other guys that show up are starting to catch up, but I am the one who set all the problems. That makes it difficult to focus on my weakness. Right now I am at 110 holds and when I go back to Seattle I am going to buy more and boat load of footies. I have been taping routes cause half of the time we are out there until 8pm or so and gets dark around 6:30. Any suggestions on crack will be greatly appreciated.
  16. This shit is so damn funny. No lines over here, just stupid baboon hucking dirt and rocks. Thank for allow ex-pat in Rwanda for post.
  17. That is some of the best news I have heard for a long time. Though now they are thinking of ways to still charge people with ideas like pay toilettes. Rather than trying to figure out how to nickle and dime it out of peoples pockets, they should learn how increase government spending on park services or figure out how to charge private business more that uses public lands.
  18. my pancakes didn't have blueberry, bummer. Alright that is about it we don't want to hear anymore about your weekend with Oly.
  19. TR's should be about the giant sized women that are on the trip.
  20. Damnit, I guess I am going to miss it. I arrive on the 15th.
  21. Alright sounds good, looks like some stellar rock. Look forward to seeing and hearing about the rest of the places you went. Yes it is true, I am back in the USSR..... I mean back in the US October 15th.
  22. So what weekend are girls making out with each other, drunks puking on themselves and Corona drinking poachers hunting from cliffs??? I am coming back out to Seattle hopefully I can join the debauchery.
  23. Because of this situation that RumR is talking about I used to have the gates facing in different opposite directions. In order to prevent unclipping in those situations I would rotate the biner that was clipped to the bolt, this way the gate couldn't get pushed opened by the bolt. Now-a-days I don't bother, that was when I was super paranoid. In most cases this does not happen, so I stopped doing it.
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