Sphinx

Jammies are gaper food. Get some if you want to look like Mounties..... More seriously, I used to tape, but once I learned to climb cracks better I never used tape anymore. It isn't worth it, plus the tape makes my huge mitts fatter.

I'd rather be working.

"But your are a lier " Sorry, Jon. DH says so, it must be true.

Hey Alex, Ever "tied" into the middle of a rope while glacier travelling? If so, my guess is that you probably did it by tying a figure-8 on a bite, or maybe a butterfly knot if you know your shit, and then CLIPPED INTO IT WITH A LOCKING BINER! There is nothing unsafe or irresponsible about that. Granted, it is preferable to tie into your harness directly whenever possible, but what that guy was doing was certainly not stupid or reckless. Lead climbing with a braided nylon rope (I saw someone doing this at exit 38)? Most people would probably consider that stupid and reckless... There's quite a chance of the biner being cross-loaded in this situation. On a glacier the forces are much lower, so it doesn't really matter. Plus I like to keep things simple, tying in directly gets rid of one more potential weak link.

Amen, man. Oh, and Seattle kinda sucks, too. Even the people @ the Patagonia store don't know much about the stuff they sell. Pretty pathetic.

Don't call me a Frenchman or Sexual Chocolate or I'll fight. Besides:

http://www.rei.com/online/store/ProductDisplay?storeId=8000&catalogId=40000008000&productId=403&parent_category_rn=5760753 I've got this thing. It's like (12oz), if you use AL foil for a lid it's lighter, and reasonably durable. I know a guy who's been using one for about 10 years now.

D-Wayner, methinks you spend too much time beliittling sport climbing. You would never be around a sport climber, much less a boulderer, so why do you care what they're doing out in the middle of the desert near a few 20 foot rocks? You're beginning to sound like a broken record. Oh, BTW, you keep slamming sport climbing. What do you think of new-school mixed? It's worse than sport climbing, as it takes the bastion of trad ice (more 'manly' than trad rock), and converts it to a 'no risk' 'pansy' sport. Plus it scratches up the rock in addition to drilling holes and placing bolts. It's all pointless anyways. Say, weren't you the one drooling over all the beachside limestone pics? How're you going to protect those? Sling a gecko maybe?

Go ahead and cry while all those "poor, misguided non-climbers" crank down and have a blast, while you whine about how this isn't 'real' climbing. Bouldering is great training, and just because it has evolved beyond training into a separate activity doesn't mean it isn't fun, or rewarding.

Go with Al. Cheap (about 10 bucks), very light, etc. Perhaps not as durable, but for 10 bucks, I don't care. I like one with a simple bail, no handle. As for Ti, doesn't MSR make em? Not cheap, but hey, it Titanium.

Me I did, and I'm happy. Shoes are the only thing I am somewhat concerned about.

I have to smile every time I read it.

Climbing faster is more fun, for me at least. Yeah, I could siege the south side of Hood in a months with 24 camps on my way up, and everybody would give me shit about it, even though ostensibly "the best style is what is most fun". Too many hypocrites out there. It's easy to 'murder the impossible' these days. Going faster and lighter is better style, at least in alpinism. Otherwise, why is there so much hoopla about speedy ascents? Spray on, flamers.

Very sweet kid.

Go skinny, short. I use a 8.5mm 50m Mammut on glaciers. Don't go too skinny or short, though. Make sure it's dry. My $.02. Oh, and do a search, this has been discussed before.

I'm happy for her if she got over her spraying addiction, but I's still wondering what happened to her.

Because you got paid for it? (Joke, joke, it's ok now, don't get worked up.) Hey ScottP, you should go live in the next tree that AK is planning to cut down. You could be a martyr.

for like the 50 zillionth time, YOU CAN'T TELL PEOPLE'S TONES AND ATTITUDE FROM READING WHAT THEY WRITE ON THE FUCKING COMPUTER. How do you know what Bone's tone and attitude was unless you actually talked to him in person? ITs easy to be misconstrued - but you should know that. arent you frustrated? hard to tell from just reading your writing.

What for?

Climber yells down to belayer: "Hey John, is this anchor set up right?" Belayer to Climber: "I dunno. Why don't you come down and we'll ask our instructor". Climber rapped, and thankfully didn't die. This was a group of Mazamas, I think.

Bullshit. You don't learn much in groups. Get experience, read the books, practice crevasse rescue, etc, and do it. Stay away form the groups.

I think it's lame to never let Mr. Lambone live down his misfortune on Glacier. We all fuck up, and that was a while ago. BUT, Lambone, you were too vociferous, recognise and accept that fact, and let it die. I think everyone knows your opinion, no need to reiterate yourself over and over.