But Simpson is also stupid, in that several of his epics could have been prevented.
1. When you are on a bivy ledge, make a BOMBPROOF anchor, so when the ledge drops away, you will hang on something secure.
2. When you are a beginning ice climber, don't try to lead something hard. He writes that he was uncomfortable walking on his crampons before he tried to lead that Scottish IV. Pretty dumb.
3. Siula Grande seems to have been bad luck.
etc.
Still, I like his books, and it seems that God refuses to kill the guy. He's got at least 9 lives.