-
Posts
11895 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Everything posted by billcoe
-
Oh the CAMHOOKS Darin...well, OK- I have 2 active sets I actually use, but they were on my rack and not in that picture.
-
Yeah, who would ONLY own 15? (insert insane laugh here) ha ha ha ha ha ha LOL! BTW, did a route last month where we used almost every damn one of the beaks, and I screwed up and forgot a few, and they were needed as it turned out. ps, a true gearwhore just buys it and asks that kind of question later...if at all.
-
LOL! From the site: "If your perversion of choice is offwidth hell, these finely crafted masterpieces will give you the confidence to get up those unprotectable death traps." Bingo!!!!!
-
yup. The valley giants work great and are real strong. You can buy them here: http://home.pacbell.net/takasper/slcd/valleygiant.html ...for now. Tom is talking about not doing it. It's a labor of love and community service as he ain't getting rich. Current large cam SLCD Valley Giant pricing (for posterity as he raised the $ last year) #9 New Generation Aluminum SLCD - $150.00 #12 New Generation Aluminum SLCD - $225.00 Kasper with older version of the cam on Excaliber: Specs for the larger 12" model: RANGE: 7.4 inch TO 12.0 inch (188mm to 305mm) STRENGTH: 2250 lbs. (10 kN) proof load WEIGHT: 35 oz. (990gram) aluminum cams; 31 oz. (880 grams) magnesium cams OVERALL WIDTH: 5.25 inch (133mm) CAM TRACKING WIDTH: 3.875 inch (98mm) OVERALL LENGTH (OPEN): 18 inch (457mm) OVERALL LENGTH (RETRACTED): 15 inch (381mm) TRIGGER TRAVEL: 2.5 inch (64mm) TRIGGER TO SPACER BAR DISTANCE: 3.75 inch (95mm) to 1.25 inch (32mm) CAMS: 1/4" 6061-T6 aluminum alloy; constant 14 degree (arctan .25) exponential spiral profile AXLE BOLT: 3/8" strain-hardened 302 stainless steel; yield stress 85 ksi; jam nut to match CABLE: 3/16" 302 stainless steel 1x19 aircraft cable; dual strands load the axle at the cams, not in the middle CABLE FITTINGS: 302 stainless steel; silver brazed to cable to a depth of 3/4" CAM SPACERS: 1" round 6061-T6; used to laterally stabilize the cams CENTER SPACER: 1" round UV-stabilized Nylon TRIGGER BAR: 6061-T6 aluminum alloy; milled cable slots for independent cam manipulation CABLE SPACER: 6061-T6 aluminum alloy; securely crimped to cable; hang here for aid CAM SPRINGS: 302 stainless steel spring wire SPRING PINS: 1/4" press-fit 302 stainless steel dowel pins TRIGGER WIRES: 302 stainless steel spring wire; extra ridigity to stabilize cams when placing
-
It's one of Tom Kaspers 12" Valley Giants. The small one is the 9". Seen here in use, a ground up first ascent we did called I fu*king hate wide Bride of Wyde....last year when I had still had hair (he says proudly). LOL! We climbed up the route to the right first and Kyle swung over, stayed up there and took these great shots. I think it may be 5.10 something, but it needs to be done to get consensus. So it's 5.9 for now. I keep showing folks that thing and no one really wants to tangle with it, and so it hasn't seen a second ascent yet. I went back and put in a belay bolt at the base so you won't roll down the hill if your leader boffs it....But the biggest cam needed is really a #6 wild country, I was using the giant there to dump it and get the weight off my rack, I already carry more in my fat ass than most folks do in their backpacks. Wish I'd had just one of those instead of 3 big bros on last months climb of the Witch. 2 seen hanging worthlessly on the lower picture, the other one that you see used would not have held a Jack Russell Terrier on a leash. I was so damn sure it would be a perfect placement, in fact 3 in a row...all perfect in my dreams, yet they were all shit. Adam and Ujhan took these pics. "Hey, it's rattling out !!" "Screw it, Vey kant ve Jus Klimb" ..."uhhh, Oh John....Let's get up her..." SHUT THE FUCK UP WITH THE GINGERBREAD AND THE KNOBS....shit...fu*king mouthy screechy Old Witch....mutter mutter.... ...see the worthless bros hanging limply and unclipped there? I think I need to take em out to the desert and see what they'll do, I haven't gotten a good placement with one yet. I tried. I tell you, I have on several occasions. The Valley giants, you could hook Ivan and his brother up to and it would hold them all, but those bros man, I'm so glad I haven't ever fallen on one.....(seen shaking his head and still muttering as he walks off).....
-
plus pictures someplace of grey jumars, yellow jumars, HB, Petzl and Yates jugs, then I have a bunch of old mountain stuff...Lowe footfangs and crap like that - an axe like yours and a few others. Can't even find some of that stuff.
-
yeah baby!! ps, don't drink and mark gear. I did that Crack-N-Up last week with a bottle of wime. For 30 plus years silver was good for my pins, but yellow blue was my other gear. Bought a gallon of yellow and went to town. WooT! ps, love your organization! Sh*t, looks like you can find stuff even!
-
How about a gear basement instead? Here's a bit. Add 20 ropes, uncountable backpacks, pitons, hooks and other shit scattered to the 4 corners of the earth and thats my basement. The backpack up there isn't around any more, that was a Cilogear prototype that Graham donated to the Ozone auction to benefit Kevin cause he's such a good dude. Then Kyle was bidding and because he's my friend....anyway...its not and never was my pack. I was helping shake it down. Carried 4 ropes out of a remote canyon days ahead of of a blizzard solo so it did the trick. Amazing pack. I did buy the 2nd one Graham produced though and I own an original Ray Olsen as well. Grahams is better though. I own all the other crap though.
-
NOT! Well Justin, if you are going out Saturday might I suggest you bring a snorkel?
-
I'm guessing 1940s-1950 (I think that carabiner holes came in the 50s? ) Maybe an expert will weigh in though. What did you pay? ps, I have a similar axe in my basement with a Mfg name on it, some Euro company. It's seen a few easy summits with me. Good looking axe, love the richness of the wood. Nice find. Suggest wiping the metal down with Eezox to better preserve it.
-
Lovely weather...
-
PS, Kenny, it's this finger I believe. LOL!! maybe on this hand though.... Take care dude!
-
Well, I for one am happy that Tvrash is finally able to legally take it up the a**, suck c*ck, and play with his little gerbil friends: as it seems to make him so happy. Just be honest and come out of the closet, who fu*king cares anyway and why would anyone. Giving a sh*t about others sex lives went passe when Clinton was President, we are past all that crap now.
-
Bingo Kenny! Kelton, good guy. Damn I'm old.....
-
Thanks for the pics with lines but especially that bottom picture of Anglin JH. Whats the kids name who freed that roof on the far side of Ozone. He came out for a day with Jim Ujahn and I and really impressed us with his good temperament and general character, not just that he was sickly strong which I generally don't give a damn about in my partners. I don't know if he might have some holes in his knowledge being so young and all, but he'd be on my short list along with the folks you mention. Based on his attitude, I'd tie in any day with him. Nice to see everyone rooting for you for a change too. Good luck with the broken finger and your winter training Joseph. There's a reason why every climber at Beacon Rock has walked past this line and not ever tried it. Be careful. ps, nice to see someone else fixated on a line. I spent my entire winter dreaming of one, it finally fell in September. I'm still in a happy, crazy, ecstatic daze over it. ...and Pink, there's no penalty for adding a Period or 2 in your paragraphs! Aurora in 48 hours? Holy crap, thats a smokin time......
-
For Democrat musician I'll have to go with a classic most of you have never heard of. Grace Slick, lead singer of the band Jefferson Airplane, (later Jefferson Starship if you are working your google Kevin) had gone to college with Richard Nixons daughter. She was invited to a white house sworee, and decided to put some Lsd under her fingernails so as to spike the punch and get that group high, this, at the height of the Vietman war that was splitting our country APART. She made the mistake of inviting the radical Abby Hoffman to be her date: then a widely and very well known firebrand, Chicago 7 co-conspirator, and published Nixon hater. The secret service denied them both entry. Grace Slcik is now 70 years old but I still like the music they produced and the radio still have White Rabbit and some other classics on the play list rotation and it's good after all these years, so that's my call. Republican.....need to think on that, cause it's not Pat Boone. Ahhhh got it, - Kid Rock. Very good guy, took care of the little guy, I forget his name now, till he died, that showed great personal and moral integrity. Some of his music is good to great as well.
-
hmmm, lets just say that she's all Kosher, warm, snugly and 100 percent natural fibres for now shall we:-) Love those dress up shoes but I bet they hurt the little hooves.
-
Pink: are you suggesting perhaps a travel tome, wherein our two heroines visit the mysterious and forbidden Isle of Lesbos to explore the secrets therein? ...and thank you for not suggesting Madeline Albright and Janet Reno...I mean, if they are in fact actually women. That would be a visual I could do with out.
-
I always saw him as more of a catcher and Cheney the pitcher.
-
Since your Google appears to be broken, might I suggest you go rent the movie "Nailin' Palin", the Larry Flint and Hustler magazine take for all the best details. You'll learn everything you need to know, then come back and report on what you've learned. No.
-
Yes, and if there is a single accident before the park opens, or the authorities get upset at people trespassing: it is possible that this area may go away forever and all that hard work is flushed away. If any of you love the area, and you know of a buddy saying they went there, please guide them in this matter.
-
[TR] Solo Aid Trip Smith Rock Oregon - West Face -
billcoe replied to Plaidman's topic in Oregon Cascades
Yeah, it musta been terrorists or something I heard it was full of candy wrappers and fir cones - truly dangerous stuff I heard that that someone had cleaned up someone elses leftover trash and then set it near the garbage can when it didn't fit inside: That it was primarily just empty beer bottles along with some trash. LOL! If true, it's another nail in the statement that "No good deed shall go unpunished". The bomb squad was probably both disappointed and thirsty at some point. Fortunately, this solo went better than that last climb where you were forced off your climb by concerned authorities Scott. If nothing else I would have liked to have been there just to see the confused look on your face when they arrived and told you to come down. "whuuhuhh huh happen what huh? but but but....I'm just climbing here ya know...." I can't say about "had to go" Ivan. But it will easily go. One time Andrew timed me and I was under 30 min. I forget exactly...28.10 or whatever he said....Would have had a better time but ran out of biners and was sorting and racking and scrounging to get more up high. So I did P1 and rapped and he tells me he was timing me and how fast I did it....I was feeling pretty good and then he runs up it and I timed him sub 25 min. something. I suspect he's had better times as well. But I've never soloed it, and have a lot of respect for anyone who does no matter what their time is. Joseph makes a good point about time up above as it relates to soloists though. However, last time I did it with Ujahn, it was butt-assed cold with howling wind (which is why we went aiding instead of free climbing) and the wind was literally blowing my aiders sideways. I wasn't anywhere near 25 min as it took 2-1/2 hours on just P1. Each step up or if my foot came out of the aider, it would collapse and simultaneously blow sideways and I'd have to do Monkey-Fuck gyrations to get my foot back in. We were carrying the 2nd rope in a pack to keep it from blowing to China and we were both totally worked by the time we got to the top of the Monkey. [img:right]https://alpenglowgear.com/gear/images/mm_Easy_Step_Aider.jpg[/img] We both had hand-tied aiders and the experience made me go out and buy us each 4 brand new Misty Mountain ladders that have steps that stay open. Christmas was just around the corner and that's what I gave Ujahn. They're pretty nice, but I miss my Robbins sub-aider I had tied on the old one. These have a few other schweet features though besides staying open that kick ass on my old ones. They have a grab loop, 2 of the steps have an elastic band you can hook your toe under for jugging, and the steps are staggered in height (closer together on top) which is great as you can get higher up in them. -
Yeah, come on down! Kevbone gives good belay...and needs to get out of the house more it looks like!! LOL
-
Well, since this IS the Bacon thread.... Francis Bacon,1st Viscount St Alban KC (22 January 1561 – 9 April 1626), son of Nicholas Bacon by his second wife Anne (Cooke) Bacon, was an English philosopher, statesman, scientist, lawyer, jurist, and author. He served both as Attorney General and Lord Chancellor of England. Although his political career ended in disgrace, he remained extremely influential through his works, especially as philosophical advocate and practitioner of the scientific revolution. Indeed, his dedication may have brought him into a rare historical group of scientists who were killed by their own experiments. His works established and popularized an inductive methodology for scientific inquiry, often called the Baconian method or simply, the scientific method. His demand for a planned procedure of investigating all things natural marked a new turn in the rhetorical and theoretical framework for science, much of which still surrounds conceptions of proper methodology today. Bacon was knighted in 1603, created Baron Verulam in 1618, and Viscount St Alban in 1621; as he died without heirs both peerages became extinct upon his death. (copied all this crap from wikipedia)
-
Check your PMS....13th is Bryan's day I believe, we're good for the weekend, or for gambling:-)