billcoe

Ivan, I hadn't read this till now. OMG, I'm glad that your little one pulled through that one. Holy severe serious shit dude, show would have not made it had it happened in Ponderousous grandpas day. You must be so relived and grateful. On the list of things to be happy about that we all ignore in general, our kids health is the top of the list. Wow!

Good on ya for getting on it. Looks awesome! The place almost doesn't look right with that level of snow though, but you can see from the pics that it's probably safer than some of the spring ascents after heavy snowfall. I think last year at this time we had 10 feet of snow up there...wow! Good stuff.

How were you able to start a topic on global warming that ended in the first page? WTF? This is important stuff, yer all gonnnnnnna DIIIEEEEE!!!!!!!

well, I'd want to see more pictures, preferable of hot, half naked Penthouse spread climber chicks and not of some dinked up anchor, before I make that call. Got pics?

We live vicariously through you kids! Awesome stuff but I bet yer like a couple of friggan popsicles!

And doing it as well Sol, thank you and everyone else for the contributions and informative tone. It's a good thread with some very good posts.

Who writes this unintellectual shit? I got prepositions where my Nouns should be and verbs magically appear....I "think" that I meant to say, "take a bivi bag and good sleeping bag and sleep over or overnight at Tie In Rock", another sentence might have read "waking up at first light" and the other one might have meant to say, "having a short axe is only of value to pick your ass or nose in deep snow, take a long one for non technical winter ascents: you'll appreciate being able to slam it deep into soft snow on the way up and also the dual function to use it like a blind mans cane coming down in a white out" not whatever the hell I was garbling on about up there. Guthrie, hey, where's these pictures of steep snow and gorgeous blue sky anyway? Been some decent weather here and there. ps, like Luvshaker says, learn everything you can and practice practice practice it in advance is a great idea, but keep your picks in and don't plan on being able to self arrest on even a moderate angle ice slope.

LOL, nice to see it wasn't a hoax:-) We all appreciate the care you put into your books. I shouldn't post this with out permission, but tossing caution to the wind. Here's Jeff Thomas last year sitting next to Jim Opdycke while reading the 2nd version (1978?) of his great guidebook that predated Alan's. Interesting that neither of us remembered him signing the inside front cover, but there was his signature. We'd love to see some historical pics!

I agree with that: the recent election there which was by all accounts full of fraud and which re-elected Karsai, will drive many right to the Taliban. At least they are honest.

Welcome to Cascade climbers Alan. As far as bolts goes, don't waste your breath as you won't change Pope or Raindawgs opinion. Read this if you don't believe me. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/897978/1 At the end of the day and 25 pages of hot air and spew, no one changed their minds. It is what it is. This was not the first go round on this identical subject. If you note: the "spray" forum is where adults can act like angry children, and the rest of the site is for actual adult conversation and information exchange.

Ken Yeager put Bestor Robinsons typewritten notes from after the higher Cathedral Spire FA over on Supertopo. Seemed like a good time to cross it over here. Bestor Robinson, Richard Leonard and Jules Eichorn on the summit of Higher Cathedral Spire after completing the first ascent in 1934. YCA collection. As bolts are much more environmentally friendly than pitons, substituting those words in Robinsons rant will bring it current.

Yup, good dude! I'll tip one as well! To a year of your best climbing and no injuries John! Happy birthday! Bryan, speaking of spray and FAs: did you ever post that TR of your summer vacation that included a first ascent on the Devils Tower and a whole bunch of other sh*t? Did I miss what would be THE best trip report of the summer?

There was a full on civil war raging when the Taliban were in power. However, as they had no freedom of the press, you didn't hear of it, but it did not mean that it was not happening. The greenwald Salon article shows him to be a clown with poor and selective hearing and not worth even bothering with. The fact that he does say some correct things notwithstanding.

That's so cool! I wonder if we can get a trip report of the Mazamas museum? Maybe some pictures? Like Danes ice axe collection kind of stuff.......the end of the year is coming up, maybe it will help troll solicit some donations as rich folks try and get their tax bill down.

I value your well thought out positions JH, but that's apples and oranges don't you think? The Soviets had the US and our free-flowing via the Paki intelligence services high tech weaponry to contend with as a silent Taliban partner. (Read Ghost Warriors as reference) Our Stingers were taking out everything the USSR put in the sky at the time. Of the current neighbors who might give assistance of that kind: Iran hates the Taliban's guts, the Chinese are smarter than to give them a nickel as they have their own minority issues with the Muslim Uighurs and Uzbeks some of whom are just under the boiling point themselves of a civil war. All of the other 'stans of the former USSR are playing ball with the US. That leaves the Paki intelligence forces, who have seen the light and do not support the Taliban any longer. The Taliban never consolidated power over that country...ever, and were still in a civil war when we attacked. Let the former Northern alliance forces under General Dostrum deal with the pockets of radical assholism left when we pull out in a few years if they don't have their shit together by then.

Got to sell the sizzle Jeff, not the steak! LOL!

All news filters. I have 2 local ones which occasional run a world or national US story. For world news I like BBC and Yahoo news. For interesting story's often more in depth which feature primarily opinions or human interest, I tend to go here. http://www.portfolio.com/ http://www.thedailybeast.com/ http://www.fark.com/ I gave up on the Drudge Report, he filters heavily and poorly IMO. For news that gets a jump on the majors and I believe is tapped into the intelligence community (BEWARE: RIGHT WING PRO US SLANT!)I go here: http://www.worldtribune.com/worldtribune/ for middle eastern news with pro-Israel slant tapped into the Israel intelligence community: http://www.debka.com/index1.php For a more anti-US view I'll check the Al's Jizzum site: http://english.aljazeera.net/

Man, the dude just rocks it. ON THE MONEY! Of course, there will be those who say it was nearly word for word identical to a Geo. Bush speech, but delivered better. Your thoughts? Parts to complain about? In the office today, there was complaining about the war cost, and the fact that we are deferring it for our kids to pay by borrowing the $. It won't be cheap, and it won't be fast. It might not be enough either... Thought I'd ask what some of you whiny liberal bitches always complaining about our country thought about Georges...Obamas speech....

They were rock and roll musicians who needed a large house for the entire band and a place to practice. Just out of winning a frivolous lawsuit, I decided it would be a good time to celebrate by supporting the arts....I didn't know that they were heroin addicts till later. ...the interesting part, is that had she been just a little nicer, I'd have gladly cleaned her gutters, and eventually when I found time, I would have trimmed up the tree or made it happen. 2 paths, so divergent.

...and the loser goes off and rakes the leaves. So just rake the leaves, save yourself all that trouble and don't worry over it. I once got sued for my leaves. Seems my huge-assed Cherry tree was sending leaves over to the neighbors house. It clogged her gutters which then caused her basement to flood. My fault she said. She came over and ragged on me more than once but my position stayed the same. I was polite and tried to get along. I said that despite the fact that I liked it, I understood that it troubled her and she was free to totally cut the tree down into a stump, trim the tree, or just ignore it: but that I liked it as is and wasn't going to be troubled or pay for something which I didn't think was the best for me or the tree in either case. Yet I would allow her to do so if it troubled her that much. She sued me in a court of law. Yes she did. She lost. Cunt. It was then on like Donkey Kong and she payed like no one will ever know until she just gave up and moved out. On the tree front: I immediately decided that since she was such a bitch, I'd just change my mind, and told her she couldn't touch my tree and why. I then fertilized it so it would grow and substantially leaf out. Bitch....she never once thanked me for contributing to the swimming pool in her basement before she moved out....turns out that she didn't like the junkies I rented too after the nice folks moved out. Said they kept breaking into her house and ripping her off. Of course I paid as well, once she was gone, I had to toss them, and they left a mess that caused one of the clean up crew I hired to help me clean up to vomit....along with over 500 needles in the basement. My boy still remembers how shocking that whole scene was. I'm all like "look dude, doing heroin will make you vomit, and you're too high to clean it up, that's what you are looking at. ...that and pee stained mattresses all over the basement with needles everywhere".

LOL I missed? Hola dudes, 2 dead deer there Saturday.....

Nice find on the link JD jr. Of course the problem with trying to human engineer a change through carbon dioxide sucking trees might be a huge other ecological disaster for all the other existing life form from insects through birds.

?? For the serious alpinist who has every other damn thing.

Watts rocks. Good dude. Pretty good interview too, thanks for the link.

Can't argue with that. Lets do an office pool on the vehicle she drives....I dibs the Ford Valdez Expedition. They say with the big engine it will pass anything except a gas station....