billcoe

Well good luck with that....probably too painful for you to see this then but I saw the pics and it looks like the money pitch up high is in Phat as of a couple of days ago! http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/924896/TR_Mt_Hood_Wy_East_12_2_2009#Post924896 I always though that the crux of this thing was not killing yourself on the crevasses below, and at this time they look as perfect (cause they aren't all covered in snow) as they get with the Mt still being climbable (ie, NOT July/August)

It is a 10 of 10 in terms of things I'd suggest a person do if they are getting into climbing. The intermediate is also good. I wouldn't give the basic the time of day, yet one of the guys I currently climb with just took it and recommends it - so Your results may vay I suppose. I helped teach the Mazamas Advanced back @ 1982 and 1983 or so. Then it was THE most through and complete thing I'd seen before or after. However, I know that since then they have split the class into 2 separate entities: high angle ice and rock -where before it was just the Advanced program. Furthermore, I do know that one of the most solid climbers in the state was asked NOT to help teach the class when they discovered he wasn't a Mazama. This was after doing it for perhaps (I'm guessing the number) 10-12 years. To me, this shows a huge disdain for the end product, which is having the best, most through, complete way to convey that kind of thing to folks who want to learn. So it might be a crap shoot on the quality of the thing. I'm just saying that I have not direct recent knowledge. Of course, it's better to learn this way if the alternative is fu*king up and dying. Many of the old time climbers had some kind of "come to Jesus" moment on the rocks which, if they survived it and continued climbing, helped them figure out the mentality needed to learn and live. The alternative, a class like this, is a much better way. Also,I would touch base with them and verify that you have the skill level going into it, or get that knowledge ASAP. I'm not trying to guess your skill level/knowledge base: but just saying that I don't know what they cover in the intermediate, things like anchor building etc, which might not be done in the advanced -just saying I'd try to figure that out ASAP. Furthermore, or if you miss the Advanced thing, I have met a couple of graduates of the Clackamas Community college rockclimbing class and whoever the heck is doing that should be very proud as he's turning out some pretty solid climbers. I've met 4-5 so far. One of my prime current partners wandering around the rocks and the dude had it together at least 90% of the way, and he knew that he had a very gaps in his knowledge he needed to fill. That last thing is very critical: ie, knowing that there are shitloads of things you DON'T know and yet still need to learn or figure out on the fly. Oh, absolutely and you will be climbing "trad" as part of the class. It's not like a "classroom" thing although they do that, but more like a field trip thing where you go to Smith rocks and places and climb stuff. Back then it would culminate in a week (or 2?) long trip to Yosemite which was awesome! Do the class for sure.

Hey, you must have had a great solo bivi last night! You sharing it? Cause I love the part where you started chasing the rat and I was wondering how that worked out for you. ..BTW, all that weight advice goes in the toilet this time of year anyway cause you want to be warm and dry and need to carry the shit to do so.. sorry if I came off like a dick up there I didn't mean too but when I re-read it..... Hope you had a nice trip. now about that rat which ran into your tent:-

Fuckin' bolts? WTF are u sayin'? LOL ...anyone want to see a pic of my car stuck in the snow today?

Not sure LCK, as I don't have a calculator handy, but the vultures and Cougars have elected to celebrate Thanksgiving by themselves this year.

We would all benefit from more naked women pics. maybe we'd all lighten up and be friendly and happier. I'm sure Don would be anyway.

Th debate has ended but the money will still be rolling in for the promoters.... Damn I got sick of the media manipulation from the Jackson camp. Wonder where all those asswipes will wind up working now?

When you look into the ear of one of the Playmates. LOL!

I swore an oath to support the constitution....so then our constitution is something you are in opposition to? By the people, for the people and ...hmmm, Obama just said it in his last speech too.

No one will fault you folks should you choose to use protection next time. I can show you what that looks like. Nice pics:-)

Whuhh he said-on the money....hey, I was just thinking of this the other day. Once, when rock climbing - I made mention of the voluminous mass of crap gear you were carrying. Man, you had extra slings, biners, rappel rings, all kinds of other unnecessary fliff flaff hanging on your waist. You assured me that it was all practical and good, training: in fact necessary in the event of an emergency etc etc. Yet I was wondering just the other day....on the 28 hours to do Snake Dike...how much crap stuff were you carrying? Did you in fact blow off my advice, then pay the price for ignoring me, but we haven't caught up to this idea yet??? Cause my wife says I give too much advice. The last advice I gave was to Adams belay partner. She ignored me on 2 critical points (as did he), then within min. of me leaving while belaying she dropped him. Hard. Now - I'll be out with Adam tomorrow, and I ain't gonna bring this up. But my point may be this -don't blow off free advice when your ass is on the line. It rarely comes around twice. Read Ivans words, he's been getting out there.

Due to knee injuries - I can only belay to 5.10.

Whooh!

It guess it depends what you consider a repugnik and what you consider a demogog I suppose. What is all that shit about? You an American? Lets start there. I voted for Bush the republican once (when he ran against the traitors son, Al Gore) and John Kerry and democrat, the patriot, once. Wuzthat? Mixed up I guess. Both Barak Obama and Geo Bush support the Afgani war...wuz that? Dem or repub? Porter, you know that the man is doing his best...PLEASE!

Boyz, we're all on the same damn side here. The MAN himself gave a great speech the other day. I think that corporate politics in all large orgs being what they are, the minions below "The Man" chose to sit on their asses until they FUCKING HEARD IT ON THE FUCKING TELEVISION and then they woke the fuck up and said OMG, we got to support our boyz cause it's gonna happen and our 6 month timeline which we projected back in JUNE if the fuckers had worked into it then instead of waiting till the last min to make up their minds and thinking that 6 months wasn't the timeline but that January was..... So they all go running around like chickens with their procurement heads chopped off trying to make up for lost time so they toss money at it so our kids don't get whacked cause they don't have this and they don't have that and it's a damn disgrace. Am I making a damn bit of sense here? Cause I read that advice I gave to the dude on Cooper spur winter ascents the other day and none of it did to me then..... Godammit it pisses me off 3 ways to Sunday! to the boyz who need to do their best, we'll catch up with the support systems later. FUCK! ..and YOU get to pay for this....YOU. Me, All of us. They must think that we must have unlimited wealth fer Christ sakes. Goddaammit. Assholes. Send Obama and the entire cabinet instead of a bunch of clueless 18 and 19 year olds and then we'll see hope and change. Fuckers would probably be hauling along electric blankets, generators and French presses....shit. ps, my boy is safety tucked away in college for now.....OMG I'm saying a prayer fro those who will be going. Truth be told, I am only catching a glimpse of the timelines, and it may be that they will get harmony on this massive co-ordination issue and more. I'll say a prayer tonight cause I have a premonition on this that just caught up in reality to me today. I might have to apologize for supporting the president on the 30,000 man troop surge.

What language are we doing these days Hugh?

LOL, just one Darin, but it's a damn good looking one and if you need to borrow it while you continue your search for one so you can bang out a remote route and are local, speak up and it's yours for a low rental fee to be determined later:-) You can ask Denalidave, Plaidman or Beaconben what my rental fees are as I have forgotten.

I'd love to connect sometime once the weather gets bad....I can only belay to 5.10 these days however...... That looks a lot like Ivan except this dude is free climbing and not hanging on gear....HUH?

Lets all rush into this right now..hey, we need this we need that! Shit, git it on order. Pay extra pay now, rush rush rush pay pay pay lets commit and figure it out AFTER the fact. Fly it in need it now now now. Fucking idiots. Lets commit all the government workers and congressmens children to be in the first wave of the 30,000 and see if they deliberate, plan, get organized then commit instead of the other way around.\ Christ. Shits rolling the wrong way boyz.

I'm putting it here to start so Dwayner and Pope can piss and diss all over it. http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/pamela_pack_513_offwidth_in_zion/ http://www.rockandice.com/inthemag.php?id=464&type=onlinenews

"HEY SOBO, WHAT TIME IS IT??"...

Ohhhh man, that was veterans day...shit I missed it: we stopped celebrating the reason we were originally celebrating this day, Armistice day -the ending of the "War to end all wars" in no time. Thats right, grandpa did it so dad and the entire world for all eternity could be spared a war ever again. How was them trenches with the rats eating the rotting corpses of your best friends and neighbors laying in the filthy trench water right next to you while you waited for the gas to drift over and snuff ya out Grandpa? "........Horrible........." Hey dad, what did YOU do during WW2 (insert silence.................) ...sigh I owe my grandpa and my father big. I was the 3rd generation born of my name to serve our country. Bill Coe served in Belgium in the trenches. His son Bill Coe chased the Germans up the Rhine as far as one base past Weisbaden someplace when the war ended. I, Bill Coe, son of Bill Coe and Grandson of Bill Coe, was the first to serve and not have to kill Germans. sigh...progress.... ...now if we could just utilize some imagination on how we name our sons. LOL!

Man, the poor little thing, ruff stuff fer sure:........I'm not sayin' that cause you're her dad either LOL!

Thought I saw one on Supertopo the other day....

It didn't happen if there's no pictures......:-)