billcoe

Well, if thats one of my routes it's probably 5.6+, if it's one of yours I'd go with old school 5.9+ !

Will, what are we doing here? Did you erase some sick pic? (Edited by willstrickland (10/04/09 07:09 PM) Edit Reason: whiners) The whiners must have erased their posts......

Now wait a damn minute here - I am my own sponsor and just how the the hell do you folks propose I make it through the winter, let alone crank it all back up again next summer, without my two main forms of hope and motivation... Rest assured that we are only discussing "EVERYONE ELSE", God forbid any of us change our behavior so sleep easy tonight like the rest of us:-) My thoughts: I might have to resort to this as the "For Sale Sign" wedged up my ass cheeks thing as I climbed didn't troll any sponsorship: _____________________________________________________________

Well, use a rattle can of paint this time instead of the scratch the arrow thing LCK. I'm thinking it could look something like this with everyone crossing out whatever they want and replacing it with whatever they think: The Crumbling 5.12a, 5.11d, 5.11c old school 5.9 The Humbling 5.12a, 5.11d, 5.11c old school 5.9 The Trembling 5.9 old school 5.9 Beyond the glory 5.11d, 5.11c old school 5.9 Sheep Fuckers Delight 5.9 old school 5.9 if led with velcro mitts still on. Punters delight - 5.6 old school 5.9 Paint it at the base with an arrow point up so folks know which way the route goes too. Something like this: voila!

Too much to photo? OMG!!! $80?

Yeah! Who the hell does that ?! Cough* cough* (He says while he hangs head in shame, then quietly STFU while slinking off to fondle his gear) * cough* __________________________________________________ The article makes some great points. "The more you climb, the less you’re interested in reading the same recycled stories with the same characters smiling from new faces. And the less you can tolerate the self-promotion that comes from white lies and self-serving exaggerations in hopes of becoming (or staying) sponsored. And those indulgences are rampant and widespread." Here here! I hate having that self-promotion crammed down my throat, even when it's somewhat deserved. Some of the bouldering and sport climb stories seem to fit in there much better IMO. It's hard to bullshit on the stuff Dean Potter, Caldwell, Steve House and Alex Honnold to name just a few are cranking off these days. Those kinds of climbs. If someone is stupid enough to give them money for being fantastic climbers....have at it, bet they appreciate the scratch.

Well shit dude, wheres the rest of your stuff! LOL - You can hike with me anyday looks like your partner has you carrying everything! Ujahn does that for me sometimes...it's awesome! ________________________________________________________________ ps, Geoff Both Tapetts rules!

Nah, thats OK dude. Just spend more time down there. 4 days, man, thats hardly time to get warmed up and figure out where you go buy the pizza! BTW, on the video - "Thats the way we roll baby!" LOL! Pine Line is a sweet little 5.7 climb that you could have "onsighted" right at the Nose start when you were passing on the Sacherer Cracker, Moby Dick and Ahab. Recommended for next time. I'd never done it until recently, I think the start of the Nose P1 is like 5.10D, don't know why I'd ever climb that instead of Pine Line but I guess I did. In fact, the first 4 pitches of the Nose is some sweet assed stuff too, as long as you're moving fast and not blocking some of the dudes like Bryan who barely slow down to clip gear as they do the Nose in a day. ____________________________________________________ Bryan, sweet stuff! They had that route closed earlier for most of the year for the nesting Falcons, so I bet it was better grip and less slick chalked footholds than Astroman anyway! Short days, you guys must have been seriously cruising and kicking ass to get over and then up and off a North facing grade 5 in October! Brrrrrr! Nice!

climbing picture? Where are they? Ujahn

I'm calling bullshit on this bad recommendation and hope you seriously reconsider it kevin. Look,in my opinion, we shouldn't be talking trash like that on the nets to start with. Furthermore, by ramming it that way down everyone's throat Kevin, that is, telling everyone that you'll do whatever you damn well please whenever you want and telling others to do the same: you are pushing the rangers, who read this drivel, into a corner. DON'T DO THAT PLEASE! Cause some poor bastard may be up there doing an FA...get totally stung out, and be able to place a bolt "IN AN EMERGENCY SITUATION" in a place where it was needed anyway, with minimal fuss, and wind up safe because of it with a good route behind him. Maybe the rangers see it but recognize that it was an emergency and let it go. That's totally different that flipping everyone off in advance for no reason and doing what you damn well please. If they give the dude a ticket for a bull*** bolt, then shouldn't they give one for an emergency one as well? Best let that dog sleep. If anyone thinks they need a bolt then just ask for it in advance. It's not unreasonable. This came about because of the "I'll do whatever I want attitude" was originally opposed BY OTHER CLIMBERS! If you want to get involved, and I'd encourage you to do so! Then don't spend all this time you spend online yammering over nothing and giving people bad advice and instead spend it by trying to get the rock open. How many letters and emails to Olympia have you sent? How many to the Fish and Wildlife folks? Time to man up, and spend the time if this is an issue you feel so passionately about don't you think? Really __________________________________________________________________ It doesn't matter if he sped on the way to the rock on a short section of the straight road heading out there. He's only going to get a ticket for this act if he is caught and it won't be a thing that screws over every other driver like you are potentially advocating a climber do to other climbers. Dude, think it over. And lets keep it off the internet too. Get involved in the process. _______________________________________________________ For myself, I'll pitch in if I can to help, but I'm somewhere else right now and trying to be focused there. BTW, this thread needs more climbing pictures is my advice:-)

I'll sell you mine when I get it then.

He who shall remain nameless? LOL! Isn't that hole missing a screen and a film canister? __________________________________________________________________________ Some of the best shit ever right here: "Tappet Brother 1 stranger Registered: 03/08/09 Posts: 1 TRs: 0 Photos: 15" SEE THAT? 15 PHOTOS (all kick assed too) AND 1 POST! THAT THERE MAY BE AN UBER MENSCH SIGHTING MY BROTHERS! LINK FOR KEVBONE _____________________________________________________________________________ ....and yeah, what Tyler said about the pics, nice job all the way around.

When we did the FA of Lone Wolf and the Last Hurrah, I found that on the rock on a little ledge and put it in my pocket....I was like WTF is this doing here??? When I got down it had fallen out of my pocket and was no where to be found. I think perhaps it wants to stay there LCK.

Gay as in extremely happy! Awesome stuff!!!! What an incredible trip you must have had.

Yup Gary, adding to what Keith said- start in the early AM and get the fire good and hot with hardwoods and then pull some stones out and put them inside the cavity. The other missing step that really helps in pulling it out, is wrapping the entire thing with chicken wire before you bury it in the coals in the pit (or some kind of wire to hold the thing together to facilitate pulling it out). Depending on Pig size, you might cook it longer than that if its a big one. ps, one of the guys who lived in this commune thing where we use to do the annual pig roast/acidtrip/band play/beer fest still has pig roast get togethers 33 years later. Even though he does this regularly, he now just rents a big metal barbecue that has a spit that is electricaly rotated over standard Kingsford briquettes. You might consider that as well. It's easier to tell when the pig is done:-)

http://www.nata.org/jat/readers/archives/jt0200/jt020000168p.pdf For you climbers who just tweaked a finger, nice article here with plenty of details to start with once you got her iced down.

Anywhere on trivia news sir! Perhaps you can use this one to get off for your collection! However, didn't she already have her 15 min of fame, like, she's so YESTERDAYYYYY!

LOL!!!!!!!!!!! "Teller Couldn't Read Robbery Suspect's Note Police: Stephanie Martin Re-Wrote Threatening Note On Bank Slip HILLSBORO, Ore. -- A 30-year-old woman tried to rob a bank Wednesday by handing a teller a threatening note, but the teller couldn't read her handwriting, police said. Hillsboro police said Stephanie Martin walked into a Wells Fargo bank in Hillsboro and handed the teller a note that read, "Need $300 or I'll kill you. I'm serious." The teller told Martin she couldn't read the handwriting, police said. Martin then walked to a counter and re-wrote the note on a bank slip, according to Lt. Mike Rouches, of the Hillsboro Police Department. The teller then hit the silent alarm and the bank's manager asked how he could help Martin, Rouches said. Martin then said she wanted to open an account with the bank, according to officers. Police and FBI agents arrived at the scene and arrested Martin, who police determined was under the influence of drugs, Rouches said." ________________________________________________________________ After viewing the picture of the "Alleged" perp, 3 of 4 CC.com uses agre that you'd hit that Porter:-)

Cold days and short nights! Hope you sped up this thing Dude. I know you could cruise it if it was not too cold. I had a cold moment this weekend myself. Shouldn't have fallen. Sigh! Someone else will be posting a TR on getting stuck out on Snake Dike just last Saturday and climbing all night in the dark to get up and back to camp soon. Probably the same day you were thinking of Astroman.

http://www.laramieboomerang.com/articles/2009/10/09/obituaries/doc4acec2d36e946264300444.txt "David L. Waggoner, 53, Laramie, died Wednesday, Oct. 7, 2009, at his home. Memorial services will be at 10 a.m. Monday at St. Matthew’s Episcopal Cathedral with the Rev. Tom Neyland, celebrant. Graveside services and inurnment will be at 3 p.m. Monday in Linn Grove Cemetery in Greeley, Colo. A full obituary will be published. Services are under the direction of Montgomery-Stryker Funeral Home." ____________________________________________________________ No word if an Alien failure, or what exactly, caused his demise. RIP dude, you were an innovator for sure! He garnered the loyalty of his employees and worked hard to build a company. Hopefully the family sells the patents and rights to produce to someone like Metolius. See you on the other side soon enough as I'm already older than you. 53 is way too young to go.

Ditto on the condolances. TJ sounds like a kick assed kind of guy, as do you who went to help your friend. Warm regards and the best to you all, I know you'll never forget him.

Another classic TR Ivan. Good guys to spend a day with but when do the Click and clack - Tappet Brothers weigh in here on the route and the TR?

New age tick marks?

of course! I think of Kevin on occasion as well when we do bolted climbs. Speaking of bolted climbs. I was fortunate to be able to do the FA of a new bolted line at Cathedral Formation with Jeff Thomas and Jim Opdycke: 2 of my favorite people. It had been pouring buckets the previous few days, and the rock was still wet Saturday but we went out anyway. Here's a few pictures of old guys for Pete. (I was the young gun at 54, but hit 55 in @ 3 weeks). I don't have any of Jim actually climbing as he had my camera and he followed second and brought it up to me, so I have just shitloads of Jeff as Jim belayed him up and I just stood there looking dumb with a camera in my hands. Jim has on a hunter orange vest, and I had on a hunter orange coat as Deer season is in full swing, and there were the occasional gunshots and "redneck in a truck driving down the road to spot deer" sighting. Wearing approach shoes to lead this new route belies the ease and enjoyment of the route (and it was very fun and very easy!). OK - so there was wet, muddy dirt on route and I did kick step a few hummocks - this great Jeff Thomas picture makes the dirt magically disappear. When the climb later gets repeated and there is only rock and not mud, this will be a popular and even easier and more fun Uber classic. Jeff below having made the traverse, you can see the "minor pinnacle" where he traversed in just below him if you look carefully: Here he is at about the same spot where he took that great pic of me. Picture looking up at The Old Witch pinnacle. I'm standing there about where the sunshine starts on the right of the pinnacle. We didn't climb the pinnacle this day despite Jeff's entreaty's (Bill, the light is PERFECT!) Jim Opdycke on top. The wall continues on up, we weren't standing on the ground like it looks -LOL! It may be @ 270 feet, give or take, off the ground right here. The next pitch of the Witch isn't that long though...maybe 60-70 feet...? Here's the route description: The Gingerbread Shortcut - 5.5 Instead of heading up for the 2nd pitch of Lava Flow, turn left towards a minor pinnacle 10 feet to the left, turn the corner, then run up the gully and sneak up on the Old Witch instead. 9 bolts, although there are 2 medium cams placements between bolts up higher, or you can skip the placements and just clip bolts. The combined age for the 3 guys of the first ascent party totaled 176 years with 115 total climbing years between them...and the route is still screwed up and poorly bolted LOL! (PS blame Bill) 10/24/2009 Bill Coe, Jim Opdycke and Jeff Thomas. A possible name for the combination of Lava Tube, Gingerbread Shortcut and then summit The Old Witch might be "The Geriatric Tour", so bring your walkers and canes as it's very do-able even for the aged and infirm....cough* cough*. 3 single rope raps to the deck and a short hike out. Life is so sweet! Here's the overview with the route I think we did marked. This was at the end of the day, and although the buttresses were all dry, the groves and gullies were still wet.

20 FA's year to date at 4 areas and none of them look as good as that.....jus sayin' Thanks for sharing...you know that she doesn't look anything like that anymore don't you? Even beauty, like morning dew, will soon pass.