billcoe

There is one steve, but it's not in spray where Kevin wants it. LOL

I've been repeatedly putting my trip reports in spray and I don't even get a thank you. ps, when people from out of the area want to go to Beacon, say they are driving more than 30 miles and coming from Seattle, should they be visiting spray to read Ivans great TR? Or should it be in the area he is climbing? ps, Ivan, don't change a thing.

LOL! Just another 12 step failure on the way to another merit badge:-)

Well, a quick perusal gets this:

Your buddy Barak was personally thanking Bush the other day, so no need for you or I to also thank him. Just take a number and get in line sir. Old style Gubment cheese: new style Gubment cheese:

Dibs! PM Sent. PS, is the location "at the end of my rope " near me? I can show up and look if you are in the area.

ding ding ding ding ding We have a !!!! The runner up winner for Rock Climbing category would of course be called "the Velcro Mitt Award" and would look like this: No stinking shiny trophies here....

Ask Adam and Ujahn how it went for them last June. They did the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral, finished it off relatively quick for it being a long assed route and had come down and started to relax and get all blotto with beer and pizza on the Glacier Point deck. At some point Broken Ankle Chris went wandering by so we sucked him in to coming over to tell us an El Cap or Fred Becky story (these are good when you've been drinking). So he joined the party and started digging into our pizza and beer when the story of my screwed up knee and the Grack center came up. He'd never done the route. I told him what a great route is was, best 5.6 in the world etc etc and as he'd never done it, he's primed to go. They decided that although the boyz had done a long route, and then proceeded to drink our next door table mates under their table, now was a great time to go climbing as every other sane person was back in camp as the sun would soon be setting. So they'd all go out anyway since they could still stand up and it's been such an amazing day....well, that's what I was seeing, and they would try to finish it errrr get on it ...errr find the base, before it got too dark. ........it got dark of course. Much like all other days where the sun surprisingly goes down...like... everyday. Adam, who copped the last lead but whom had never even seen the route before, had the opportunity to find the top of Marginal in the pitch dark as the beautiful Grack Center crack ends near the top and he wandered off route on the blank face in the blackness. Which, as we all know as it turns out, wasn't the right place at all! 30 feet of slab downclimbing and pitch black hilarity ensued of course once the boyz caught up to say to him...WTF dude? What ya belaying off of there and the route is over there the other way! In my minds eye it looked like this: I was ready to gimp over to look for them with some extra high def candlepower as it had been dark so long, but they came wandering in late looking for dinner and beer about bedtime, having had a full value day and a grand adventure.

I was in the gorge under an overhang when hell broke loose and I was wishing I was home watching porn on TV or something interesting. After over an hour of watching the water get progressively closer I dashed to a bigger overhang under the Trembling. I would have called you guys but didn't have a phone number, figured you were swimming over at BEecon.

Hmmm, I don't know tymebldr Donnie: the "clips" off the wall part is interesting. Perhaps Tymebldr can scan his fine or court paperwork and post it? What say thee tymebldr?

The cats going next.

I heard about 30-40 rounds being fired relatively close over the period of an hour as I tryed to stay dry under an overhand at the cliff in some torrential rain Saturday. Glad I had my hunter orange on. From the net, when cars and deer collide. My brother showed up an hour ago with a bunch of bison which stuffed our freezer full.

According to Disney, bears only know point and shoot, so you're safe for now till they figure out f stops, exposure and stuff. Of course, Disney has lied about some of their other characters too, so that could be off base. Snow White outted sleeping with the dwarves __________________________________________________________________ LOL! .. .. .. .. ...hey wait, that's me too.

LOL: Snow White caught sleeping with the dwarfs and doing beer ads. She's hawt. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/newstopics/howaboutthat/6341373/Ho-White-and-the-Seven-Dwarves-beer-advert-angers-Disney.html "The x-rated advertisement, for Jamieson's Raspberry Ale, depicts the fairytale heroine blowing smoke rings while lying in bed with seven semi-clad dwarves. In this Disney dystopia, Snow White has been renamed "Ho White", while the loveable dwarves Sleepy, Happy and Doc are rebranded Filthy, Smarmy and Randy - supposedly to represent different types of drinkers. Campaign creators The Foundry claimed the idea was to convince Australian drinkers that the fruit-flavoured beer was "anything but sweet". However, the advertisement has reportedly angered Disney, the entertainment giant which licenses Snow White. The Foundry said it had had "a little bit of contact" with Disney over the issue, according to Sydney's Daily Telegraph newspaper. The Foundry's website had featured pictures of "Ho White" but links to the campaign appeared to have been disabled and the campaign's official website, anythingbutsweet.com, could not be accessed. Australia's Food Week website speculated that this may be due to a copyright infringement. Disney, which released the famous animated Snow White feature in 1937, was not immediately available for comment. However, it is unlikely that the company, which runs the family-friendly Disney theme parks and is known for its cartoon feature films aimed at children, would agree to Snow White's image being used to sell beer. "

cough* cough* (shyly raises hand and braces for personal attacks)....I read it! My subscription to r and I has ran out and I was going to renue cause the last 3 times I went climbing and had a full car, dudes in the back loved reading the old issues stuck behind my seat and their Ouuuus and Ahhhhs reminded me how damn good it is in the wider format. PS, I love the pictures Joe, don't stop or even slow down!!! The stories, however, CAN (but aren't necessarily and often are not) examples of what is being discussed here.

Noooo, say it ain't so! I was hoping it wasn't contagious.....

He even thanked praised George Bush today. I heard President Obamas speech on the radio thanking Bush, in person it sounded like, for his service to the country. No kidding at all. You know, thats the least he could do since Geo Bush and crew got us started way down this road to indebtedness hell. I know, lets give everyone who buys a huge gas guzzler the size of a school bus a $8000 tax break! Wait - already been done by shit for brains. Thank the lord we don't have that kind of crap happening now.

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/915560#Post915560

Nah, popped my finger playing basketball in the warehouse an hour ago - but I have what the recipient just deemed a "Tolstoy novel" going on last weekends first ascent which I typed earlier. I can forward it to you, but the recipient already asked if I could shorten it. I tried and came up with "We came, we climbed", but still feel I could pare down some of those 4 words. So for now, it's "We came, we climbed". ...You're welcome. Shhhh, not so Damn loud OK, these moderators are vindictive sons o bitches, they can make you a perma-nOOb on a whim! I've seen worse happen, so don't crow too loudly...it's a hubris thing, they'd like nothing more than to slam some random noob as if it's a inner city drive by shooting. I'll go ahead anyway and open a bottle wine though in celebration on the off chance it sticks. Wheres Sobo? I like virtual drinking with him. Toast "TO BRUTUS" In case I don't talk to you on the phone thanks for the work!

OJ called, he wants it back.

You and your government (Bush era) is spending $50,000 per fish (fifty thousand dollars per fish, not a misprint) and I'd think you'd be pretty worried, pissed and concerned about that too, but not a word hey? Hey, it's only paper, piss it away and flush it down, the taxpayers always have more. She probably did what most of us do in those situations, our knees jerk upon reading the first paragraph and knocks us senseless, silly or both. Angry response ensures. Probably a good thing that no one has calculated how much money each dead Taliban or Al Queefer insurgent costs us. Make those fish look cheap.

LOL, when Brutus would e-mail you a topo, he'd send that along....I think he was joking, but I've always liked certain elements of that thing. "In fact, I am not responsible for the consequences even if you DO heed this advice and, for example, end up in an unplanned bivy because you were carrying too much g*dd@mnstuff, stumble into the bivy fire at 2 am when you get up to take a p!ss, and severely burn the flesh on your hands. You have only yourself to blame, so leave me out of it."

OMG, gear theft is suck a low low thing to do. It's even worse when you realize that some tweakheads gonna get less than $100 for what ya spent $1000 on. Holy crap Scott, that's a lot of gear to lose! Did the family ring ever surface? It sounds pretty distinctive.

Well, no. Here's the late Brutus of Wydes climbing disclaimer I should Vulcan mind meld the two. Don't forget to have fun! "WARNING!! ALL INDIVIDUALS USING, REFERRING TO, TALKING ABOUT, OR THINKING ABOUT THIS TOPO MUST READ THIS!!! This inaccurate topo is based on dim recollections, half-baked guesses, and outright lies. In NO WAY does it tell the full story. You would probably be better off just trying to find your own way up the mountain, than you would be if you used this topo. But that statement in no way implies that I am in any way responsible if you don't use the topo, and something bad happens anyway. Nature is unpredictable and unsafe. Mountains are dangerous. Many books have been written about these dangers, and there's no way I can list them all here. Read the books. The area depicted by this topo is covered in steep terrain with loose, slippery and unstable footing. The weather can make matters worse. Sheer drops are everywhere. You may fall, be injured or die. There are hidden holes. You could break your leg. There are wild animals, which may be vicious, poisonous, hungry or carriers of dread diseases. These may include poisonous amphibians, reptiles, and insects; insects to which you have allergies, or whose multiple stings can cause anaphylactic shock; mammals which may include skunks, badgers, marmots, lions, tigers, and bears; predatory birds, and all other manner of beasts. Plants can be poisonous as well, and even when not poisonous, can inflict serious injury like a sharp stick in the eye. This topo, and the author of this topo, will not do anything to protect you from any of this. I do not inspect, supervise or maintain the ground, rocks, cliffs, wildlife, vegetation or other features, natural or otherwise. Real dangers are present even on approach trails. Trails are not sidewalks, and folks have died and been seriously injured even on sidewalks when they have tripped on cracked concrete, plunged into meter boxes with missing covers, been mugged, hit by cars, had pianos fall on them... Trails can be, and are, steep, slippery and dangerous. Trail features made or enhanced by humans, such as bridges, steps, walls and railings (if any) can break, collapse, or otherwise fail catastrophically at any time. I don't promise to inspect, supervise or maintain them in any way. They may be negligently constructed or repaired. Some trails in the area are only maintained by Nelson Bighorn Sheep, who have little regard for human life or human safety, or any humans whatsoever. In summary, trails are unsafe, period. Live with it or stay away. Stay on the trails whenever possible. The terrain, in addition to being dangerous, is surprisingly complex. You may get lost. You probably WILL get lost. The chances of getting lost multiply geometrically after the sun goes down, due to poor visibility. The sun goes down at least once a day in this area. Not to say that you won't get lost during daylight hours. In either event, carry a flashlight, extra bulb and batteries, compass, GPS, altimeter, cellular phone, food, water, matches and first aid supplies at all times. My advising you of this does not mean there are not other things you should be carrying. Carry them all as well, and know how to use them. I am not responsible for the consequences if you fail to heed this advice. In fact, I am not responsible for the consequences even if you DO heed this advice and, for example, end up in an unplanned bivy because you were carrying too much g*dd@mnstuff, stumble into the bivy fire at 2 am when you get up to take a p!ss, and severely burn the flesh on your hands. You have only yourself to blame, so leave me out of it. Rocks and other objects can, and probably will, fall from the cliffs. They can tumble down slopes. This can happen naturally, or be caused by people above you, such as climbers. Rocks of all sizes, including huge boulders, can shift, move or fall with no warning. If you don't believe me check out the talus slopes at the base of some of the rock walls. They didn't just grow there. Use of helmets is advised for anyone approaching the rock formations. As a matter of fact, approaching the rock formations is not advised. That is pretty stupid too. But if you DO choose to risk your worthless scrawny neck by going near rocks, shoulder pads, knee pads, elbow pads, athletic cups and supporters and other body armor may be handy as well. These items can be purchased or rented from mountaineering shops and athletic supply stores. They won't save you if you get hit by or scrape against something big or on another part of your body. A whole rock formation might collapse on you leave nothing but a grease spot. Don't think it can't happen. It does, and it probably will. Weather can be dangerous, regardless of the forecast. Be prepared with extra clothing, including rain gear. Hypothermia, heat stroke, dehydration, frostbite, lightning, ice and snow, runoff from rainstorms, flashfloods, etc. can kill you. Rain can turn easy terrain into a deathtrap, can drown you if you're looking up into the sky with your mouth open, and vastly decreases traction on pavement. Snow is even worse, the hazards ranging from snowball fight injuries to avalanches. If you scramble in high places (scrambling is moving over terrain steep enough to use your hands) without proper experience, training and equipment, or allow children to do so, you are making a terrible mistake. Even if you know what you're doing and are the most experienced and safest climber the world has ever known, you are still making a terrible mistake: lots of things can and do go wrong and you may be injured or die. It happens all the time. Furthermore, scrambling amongst the huge boulders in this canyon, even without exposure of high places, can result in serious physical and/or emotional injury, or death. This area, and this route, are not provided with any rangers or security personnel on any regular basis. The other people in the area, including other visitors, USFS employees, foreign agents, biologists and nature freaks, and anyone else who might sneak in, may be stupid, reckless, a religious fanatic, or otherwise dangerous. They may be mentally ill, criminally insane, drunk, using illegal drugs and/or armed with deadly weapons and ready to use them. I'm not going to do anything about that. I refuse to take responsibility. Excessive consumption of alcohol, use of prescription drugs, over-the-counter medications, and/or legal or illegal controlled substances while frequenting this area can and probably will affect your mental state, alertness, and decision-making abilities, and could make an already dangerous situation even worse. Even abstinence won't protect you from the actions of others under the influence of such substances. Tough luck. Not my fault. The driveways, freeways, highways, streets, alleys, back roads and unimproved 4WD tracks leading to this area kill hundreds of folks each year. Many of these fatalities are folks who aren't even on their way to this canyon, who in fact have never heard of this canyon, but are simply innocent victims. Not so you. You have been warned. You could get killed driving to the trailhead. Wearing your seatbelt tightly fastened with the lap belt low across your waist improves your chances of survival, in most cases (except that one steep section of road) but does not and cannot guarantee your safety. You might die before ever stepping out of your vehicle at the trailhead, or on the way home. It can happen any time. If you think you are immune from this kind of thing, you're fooling yourself. This is not a sterile environment. Bacteria, viruses, protozoa, protoviruses, fungi and other forms of life and protolife which may or may not be currently included in either the plant or animal kingdom are capable of causing you serious bodily harm, illness, or death. These kinds of biological agents are both endemic in the area or present in the plant and animal populations; and are also capable of being carried or transmitted by your climbing partners and traveling companions. I'm not going to take responsibility for this, either. My advice for you to treat drinking water, wash your hands before and after going to the bathroom and before eating, and to not indulge in unprotected sex in this area, in no way obligates me to be responsible for the consequences if you fail to do so, nor does it mean that even if you DO take these precautions and something happens anyway, that I am to blame. Not so. Forget it. Nada. Negativo. If you climb, you may die or be seriously injured. And the longer you climb the greater your risk of bad luck, which may or may not be compounded by hubris, catching up to you. This is true whether you are experienced or not, trained or not, and equipped or not, though training, experience and equipment may help. It's a fact, climbing is extremely dangerous. If you don't like it, stay at home. You really shouldn't be doing it anyway. I do not provide supervision or instruction. I am not responsible for, and do not inspect or maintain, climbing anchors (including bolts, pitons, slings, trees, etc.) As far as I know, any of them can and probably will suddenly fail without warning and send you plunging to your death with a bloodcurdling scream, likely pulling your partner to his or her doom as well. There are countless tons of loose rock ready to be dislodged and fall on you or someone else. There are any number of inobvious, extremely and unusually dangerous conditions existing on and around the rocks, and elsewhere in the canyon. I probably don't know about any specific hazard, but even if I do, don't expect this topo or its author to try to warn you. You're on your own. Furthermore, the fact that I'm not trying to stop you from being in this area in no way implies, nor should it be inferred, that I approve, recommend, advocate, or otherwise in any way affirm that such action on your part is anything but incredibly stupid. Rescue services are not provided by anyone near this climb, and may not be available quickly or at all. In fact, if anything really serious happens to you in this area, you'll probably be dead before word ever reaches civilization. Local rescue squads may not be equipped for or trained in mountain rescue. They probably won't be. If you are lucky enough to have somebody try to rescue you or treat your injuries, they will probably be incompetent or worse. This includes doctors and hospitals. I assume no responsibility. Also, if you decide to participate in a rescue of some other unfortunate, that's your choice. Don't do it unless you are willing to assume all risks, and don't blame me when it goes bad and you end up getting yourself sued in the process. By using, or even just looking at this topo, you are agreeing that I owe you no duty of care or any other duty, you agree to release me, my relatives, heirs, dependents, and anyone else I care to name, now and forevermore, from any and all claims of liability, even though my actions may be grossly negligent and/or be construed as reckless endangerment, manslaughter, or other misconduct up to and including premeditated murder. By consulting this topo, you agree to waive forever any rights that you, your partners, dependents, heirs, inlaws, and others known or unknown to you may have, to legal compensation resulting from anything that has anything to do with this topo, including but in no way limited to paper cuts from the edge of the topo itself. If you try to sue me in spite of all this, you agree to pay my lawyers fees regardless of the outcome of the suit, and you expressly agree to re-reimburse me for any loss or injury, be it financial, physical, emotional, or imagined, which I may experience as a result of such lawsuit. I promise you nothing. I do not and will not even try to keep the area safe for any purpose. The area is NOT safe for any purpose. This is no joke. I won't even try to warn about any dangerous or hazardous condition, whether I know about it or not. If I do decide to warn you about something, that doesn't mean I will try to warn you about anything else. If I do make an effort to fix an unsafe condition, I may not try to correct any others, and I may actually make matters worse! I may have done things in the area that are unwise and dangerous. I probably did, but I don't remember. Sorry, I'm neither competent nor responsible. The topo gives you bad advice. Don't listen. Or do listen. It's your choice, but you face the consequences either way, whatever they may be. In short, CLIMB AT YOUR OWN RISK. If you, or your heirs, relatives, dependents or others known or unknown to you; your partner or your partners heirs, relatives, dependents, or others known or unknown to your partner, are the slimy kind of lawyer-touting parasites who would try to sue the author of a topo, If you can't take responsibility for your own decisions, knowledge, routefinding and plain dumb luck, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE stay far far away from this route and this canyon, give up climbing, and die of some completely natural, painful, and slowly progressive disease. Thank you, climb safe, and have fun! END of Disclaimer " ps, I think he forgot the part about the rope! You're an OK guy Drew, sometimes a tad snarky, so don't forget to tag a happy face on the end of your mean sounding posts or it comes off wrong to those who don't know you.

All I heard last night during the interview was the reporter saying, is your son going to be grounded? The reply was not tongue in cheek "we don't ground our kids"....hmmmm, I guess there is an obvious tie in here..... So plan on future flights it sounds like.