billcoe

Dude...uhh, wasn't like 5th grade a few years ago? LOL! Tappett Bros rule, in fact #2 Tappet just got up Turkey Monster, had some great pics too. ____________________________________________________________________ Bone, obviously I don't know a troll or when you're teasing from my foot. I suspect I'll eventually catch on though. Want to see my Brutus of Wydes disclaimer? I like the part about stumbling into the fire at 2am when you get up to piss....As he died in a car wreck, I wonder if he followed his own advice and had a seatbelt on like he says there. WARNING!! ALL INDIVIDUALS USING, REFERRING TO, TALKING ABOUT, OR THINKING ABOUT THIS TOPO MUST READ THIS!!! This inaccurate topo is based on dim recollections, half-baked guesses, and outright lies. In NO WAY does it tell the full story. You would probably be better off just trying to find your own way up the mounatin, than you would be if you used this topo. But that statement in no way implies that I am in any way responsible if you don't use the topo, and something bad happens anyway. Nature is unpredictable and unsafe. Mountains are dangerous. Many books have been written about these dangers, and there's no way I can list them all here. Read the books. The area depicted by this topo is covered in steep terrain with loose, slippery and unstable footing. The weather can make matters worse. Sheer drops are everywhere. You may fall, be injured or die. There are hidden holes. You could break your leg. There are wild animals, which may be vicious, poisonous, hungry or carriers of dread diseases. These may include poisonous amphibians, reptiles, and insects; insects to which you have allergies, or whose multiple stings can cause anaphylactic shock; mammals which may include skunks, badgers, marmots, lions, tigers, and bears; predatory birds, and all other manner of beasts. Plants can be poisonous as well, and even when not poisonous, can inflict serious injury like a sharp stick in the eye. This topo, and the author of this topo, will not do anything to protect you from any of this. I do not inspect, supervise or maintain the ground, rocks, cliffs, wildlife, vegetation or other features, natural or otherwise. Real dangers are present even on approach trails. Trails are not sidewalks, and folks have died and been seriously injured even on sidewalks when they have tripped on cracked concrete, plunged into meter boxes with missing covers, been mugged, hit by cars, had pianos fall on them... Trails can be, and are, steep, slippery and dangerous. Trail features made or enhanced by humans, such as bridges, steps, walls and railings (if any) can break, collapse, or otherwise fail catastrophically at any time. I don't promise to inspect, supervise or maintain them in any way. They may be negligently constructed or repaired. Some trails in the area are only maintained by Nelson Bighorn Sheep, who have little regard for human life or human safety, or any humans whatsoever. In summary, trails are unsafe, period. Live with it or stay away. Stay on the trails whenever possible. The terrain, in addition to being dangerous, is surprisingly complex. You may get lost. You probably WILL get lost. The chances of getting lost multiply geometrically after the sun goes down, due to poor visibility. The sun goes down at least once a day in this area. Not to say that you won't get lost during daylight hours. In either event, carry a flashlight, extra bulb and batteries, compass, GPS, altimeter, cellular phone, food, water, matches and first aid supplies at all times. My advising you of this does not mean there are not other things you should be carrying. Carry them all as well, and know how to use them. I am not responsible for the consequences if you fail to heed this advice. In fact, I am not responsible for the consequences even if you DO heed this advice and, for example, end up in an unplanned bivy because you were carrying too much g*dd@mnstuff, stumble into the bivy fire at 2 am when you get up to take a p!ss, and severely burn theflesh on your hands. You have only yourself toblame, so leave me out of it. Rocks and other objects can, and probably will, fall from the cliffs. They can tumble down slopes. This can happen naturally, or be caused by people above you, such as climbers. Rocks of all sizes, including huge boulders, can shift, move or fall with no warning. If you don't believe me check out the talus slopes at the base of some of the rock walls. They didn't just grow there. Use of helmets is advised for anyone approaching the rock formations. As a matter of fact, approaching the rock formationsis not advised. That is pretty stupid too. But ifyou DO choose to risk your worthless scrawny neckby going near rocks, shoulder pads, knee pads, elbow pads, athletic cups and supporters and other body armor may be handy as well. These items can be purchased or rented from mountaineering shops and athletic supply stores. They won't save you if you get hit by or scrape against something big or on another part of your body. A whole rock formation might collapse on you leave nothing but a grease spot. Don't think it can't happen. It does, and it probably will. Weather can be dangerous, regardless of the forecast. Be prepared with extra clothing, including rain gear. Hypothermia, heat stroke, dehydration, frostbite, lightning, ice and snow, runoff from rainstorms, flashfloods, etc. can kill you. Rain can turn easy terrain into a deathtrap, can drown you if you're looking up into the sky with your mouth open, and vastly decreases traction on pavement. Snow is even worse, the hazards ranging from snowball fight injuries to avalanches. If you scramble in high places (scrambling is moving over terrain steep enough to use your hands) without proper experience, training and equipment, or allow children to do so, you are making a terrible mistake. Even if you know what you're doing and are the most experienced and safest climber the world has ever known, you are still making a terrible mistake: lots of things can and do go wrong and you may be injured or die. It happens all the time. Furthermore, scrambling amongst the huge boulders in this canyon, even without exposure of high places, can result in serious physical and/or emotional injury, or death. This area, and this route, are not provided with any rangers or security personnel on any regular basis. The other people in the area, including other visitors, USFS employees, foreign agents, biologists and nature freaks, and anyone else who might sneak in, may be stupid, reckless, a religious fanatic, or otherwise dangerous. They may be mentally ill, criminally insane, drunk, using illegal drugs and/or armed with deadly weapons and ready to use them. I'm not going to do anything about that. I refuse to take responsibility. Excessive consumption of alcohol, use of prescription drugs, over-the-counter medications, and/or legal or illegal controlled substances while frequenting this area can and probably will affect your mental state, alertness, and decision-making abilities, and could make an already dangerous situation even worse. Even abstinence won't protect you from the actions of others under the influence of such substances. Tough luck. Not my fault. The driveways, freeways, highways, streets, alleys, back roads and unimproved 4WD tracks leading to this area kill hundreds of folks each year. Many of these fatalities are folks who aren't even on their way to this canyon, who in fact have never heard of this canyon, but are simply innocent victims. Not so you. You have been warned. You could get killed driving to the trailhead. Wearing your seatbelt tightly fastened with the lap belt low across your waist improves your chances of survival, in most cases (except that one steep section of road) but does not and cannot guarantee your safety. You might die before ever stepping out of your vehicle at the trailhead, or on the way home. It can happen any time. If you think you are immune from this kind of thing, you're fooling yourself. This is not a sterile environment. Bacteria, viruses, protozoa, protoviruses, fungi and other forms of life and protolife which may or may not be currently included in either the plant or animal kingdom are capable of causing you serious bodily harm, illness, or death. These kinds of biological agents are both endemic in the area or present in the plant and animal populations; and are also capable of being carried or transmitted by your climbing partners and travelling companions. I'm not going to take responsibility for this, either. My advice for you to treat drinking water, wash your hands before and after going to the bathroom and before eating, and to not indulge in unprotected sex in this area, in no way obligates me to be responsible for the consequences if you fail to do so, nor does it mean that even if you DO take these precautions and something happens anyway, that I am to blame. Not so. Forget it. Nada. Negativo. If you climb, you may die or be seriously injured. And the longer you climb the greater your risk of bad luck, which may or may not be compounded by hubris, catching up to you. This is true whether you are experienced or not, trained or not, and equipped or not, though training, experience and equipment may help. It's a fact, climbing is extremely dangerous. If you don't like it, stay at home. You really shouldn't be doing it anyway. I do not provide supervision or instruction. I am not responsible for, and do not inspect or maintain, climbing anchors (including bolts, pitons, slings, trees, etc.) As far as I know, any of them can and probably will suddenly fail without warning and send you plunging to your death with a bloodcurdling scream, likely pulling your partner to his or her doom as well. There are countless tons of loose rock ready to be dislodged and fall on you or someone else. There are any number of inobvious, extremely and unusually dangerous conditions existing on and around the rocks, and elsewhere in the canyon. I probably don't know about any specific hazard, but even if I do, don't expect this topo or its author to try to warn you. You're on your own. Furthermore, the fact that I'm not trying to stop you from being in this area in no way implies, nor should it be inferred, that I approve, recommend, advocate, or otherwise in any way affirm that such action on your part is anything but incredibly stupid. Rescue services are not provided by anyone near this climb, and may not be available quickly or at all. In fact, if anything really serious happens to you in this area, you'll probably be dead before word ever reaches civilization. Local rescue squads may not be equipped for or trained in mountain rescue. They probably won't be. If you are lucky enough to have somebody try to rescue you or treat your injuries, they will probably be incompetent or worse. This includes doctors and hospitals. I assume no responsibility. Also, if you decide to participate in a rescue of some other unfortunate, that's your choice. Don't do it unless you are willing to assume all risks, and don't blame me when it goes bad and you end up getting yourself sued in the process. By using, or even just looking at this topo, you are agreeing that I owe you no duty of care or any other duty, you agree to release me, my relatives, heirs, dependents, and anyone else I care to name, now and forevermore, from any and all claims of liability, even though my actions may be grossly negligent and/or be construed as reckless endangerment, manslaughter, or other misconduct up to and including premeditated murder. By consulting this topo, you agree to waive forever any rights that you, your partners, dependents, heirs, inlaws, and others known or unknown to you may have, to legal compensation resulting from anything that has anything to do with this topo, including but in no way limited to paper cuts from the edge of the topo itself. If you try to sue me in spite of all this, you agree to pay my lawyers fees regardless of the outcome of the suit, and you expressely agree to re-imburse me for any loss or injury, be it financial, physical, emotional, or imagined, which I may experience as a result of such lawsuit. I promise you nothing. I do not and will not even try to keep the area safe for any purpose. The area is NOT safe for any purpose. This is no joke. I won't even try to warn about any dangerous or hazardous condition, whether I know about it or not. If I do decide to warn you about something, that doesn't mean I will try to warn you about anything else. If I do make an effort to fix an unsafe condition, I may not try to correct any others, and I may actually make matters worse! I may have done things in the area that are unwise and dangerous. I probably did, but I don't remember. Sorry, I'm neither competent nor responsible. The topo gives you bad advice. Don't listen. Or do listen. It's your choice, but you face the consequences either way, whatever they may be. In short, CLIMB AT YOUR OWN RISK. If you, or your heirs, relatives, dependents or others known or unknown to you; your partner or your partners heirs, relatives, dependents, or others known or unknown to your partner, are the slimy kind of lawyer-touting parasites who would try to sue the author of a topo, If you can't take responsibility for your own decisions, knowledge, routefinding and plain dumb luck, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE stay far far away from this route and this canyon, give up climbing, and die of some completely natural, painful, and slowly progressive disease. Thank you, climb safe, and have fun! END of Disclaimer ______________________________________________________________

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Loose rock, weather, and excessive consumption of alcohol are among countless factors that will KILL you when attempting this route. If you can't take responsibility for your own safety, for your own decisions and knowledge, if you can't climb at your own risk, if you or your survivors are the kind who would try to sue the author of a topo or a guidebook, PLEASE stay far far away from this and all my routes, give up climbing, and die of some completely natural, painful, slowly progressive disease. Some exclusions may apply and the omnipresent "your results may vary".

What did we all decide on this rope?

Well, I think this is still the best picture on this important parenting thread.

I thought we'd moved beyond that? Oh wait, snap. __________________________________________________________________ LOL! I'd have better luck peddling my ass on the street I suspect.

Great stuff for sure. Thats the YW to SE Corner Lost Variation (un)happy finish. Probably a reason it got "lost". 5.8 my ass. No one does it twice that I know of. Sorry to hear of your friend Sobo. I once had a bad encounter with the asswipe who later became the DC Sniper. When they fry his ass I'll breath a sigh of happiness that the world is a better place. There's evil in the world for sure, and I think it's OK to send it gibbering straight to hell when we find it.

Maybe the dad was busy... Whats with all the "fail"? This kid, (alleged ballon boy) should he survive, might grow up to be an astronaut. Hope this turns out OK though.

Well, if thats one of my routes it's probably 5.6+, if it's one of yours I'd go with old school 5.9+ !

Will, what are we doing here? Did you erase some sick pic? (Edited by willstrickland (10/04/09 07:09 PM) Edit Reason: whiners) The whiners must have erased their posts......

Now wait a damn minute here - I am my own sponsor and just how the the hell do you folks propose I make it through the winter, let alone crank it all back up again next summer, without my two main forms of hope and motivation... Rest assured that we are only discussing "EVERYONE ELSE", God forbid any of us change our behavior so sleep easy tonight like the rest of us:-) My thoughts: I might have to resort to this as the "For Sale Sign" wedged up my ass cheeks thing as I climbed didn't troll any sponsorship: _____________________________________________________________

Well, use a rattle can of paint this time instead of the scratch the arrow thing LCK. I'm thinking it could look something like this with everyone crossing out whatever they want and replacing it with whatever they think: The Crumbling 5.12a, 5.11d, 5.11c old school 5.9 The Humbling 5.12a, 5.11d, 5.11c old school 5.9 The Trembling 5.9 old school 5.9 Beyond the glory 5.11d, 5.11c old school 5.9 Sheep Fuckers Delight 5.9 old school 5.9 if led with velcro mitts still on. Punters delight - 5.6 old school 5.9 Paint it at the base with an arrow point up so folks know which way the route goes too. Something like this: voila!

Too much to photo? OMG!!! $80?

Yeah! Who the hell does that ?! Cough* cough* (He says while he hangs head in shame, then quietly STFU while slinking off to fondle his gear) * cough* __________________________________________________ The article makes some great points. "The more you climb, the less you’re interested in reading the same recycled stories with the same characters smiling from new faces. And the less you can tolerate the self-promotion that comes from white lies and self-serving exaggerations in hopes of becoming (or staying) sponsored. And those indulgences are rampant and widespread." Here here! I hate having that self-promotion crammed down my throat, even when it's somewhat deserved. Some of the bouldering and sport climb stories seem to fit in there much better IMO. It's hard to bullshit on the stuff Dean Potter, Caldwell, Steve House and Alex Honnold to name just a few are cranking off these days. Those kinds of climbs. If someone is stupid enough to give them money for being fantastic climbers....have at it, bet they appreciate the scratch.

Well shit dude, wheres the rest of your stuff! LOL - You can hike with me anyday looks like your partner has you carrying everything! Ujahn does that for me sometimes...it's awesome! ________________________________________________________________ ps, Geoff Both Tapetts rules!

Nah, thats OK dude. Just spend more time down there. 4 days, man, thats hardly time to get warmed up and figure out where you go buy the pizza! BTW, on the video - "Thats the way we roll baby!" LOL! Pine Line is a sweet little 5.7 climb that you could have "onsighted" right at the Nose start when you were passing on the Sacherer Cracker, Moby Dick and Ahab. Recommended for next time. I'd never done it until recently, I think the start of the Nose P1 is like 5.10D, don't know why I'd ever climb that instead of Pine Line but I guess I did. In fact, the first 4 pitches of the Nose is some sweet assed stuff too, as long as you're moving fast and not blocking some of the dudes like Bryan who barely slow down to clip gear as they do the Nose in a day. ____________________________________________________ Bryan, sweet stuff! They had that route closed earlier for most of the year for the nesting Falcons, so I bet it was better grip and less slick chalked footholds than Astroman anyway! Short days, you guys must have been seriously cruising and kicking ass to get over and then up and off a North facing grade 5 in October! Brrrrrr! Nice!

climbing picture? Where are they? Ujahn

I'm calling bullshit on this bad recommendation and hope you seriously reconsider it kevin. Look,in my opinion, we shouldn't be talking trash like that on the nets to start with. Furthermore, by ramming it that way down everyone's throat Kevin, that is, telling everyone that you'll do whatever you damn well please whenever you want and telling others to do the same: you are pushing the rangers, who read this drivel, into a corner. DON'T DO THAT PLEASE! Cause some poor bastard may be up there doing an FA...get totally stung out, and be able to place a bolt "IN AN EMERGENCY SITUATION" in a place where it was needed anyway, with minimal fuss, and wind up safe because of it with a good route behind him. Maybe the rangers see it but recognize that it was an emergency and let it go. That's totally different that flipping everyone off in advance for no reason and doing what you damn well please. If they give the dude a ticket for a bull*** bolt, then shouldn't they give one for an emergency one as well? Best let that dog sleep. If anyone thinks they need a bolt then just ask for it in advance. It's not unreasonable. This came about because of the "I'll do whatever I want attitude" was originally opposed BY OTHER CLIMBERS! If you want to get involved, and I'd encourage you to do so! Then don't spend all this time you spend online yammering over nothing and giving people bad advice and instead spend it by trying to get the rock open. How many letters and emails to Olympia have you sent? How many to the Fish and Wildlife folks? Time to man up, and spend the time if this is an issue you feel so passionately about don't you think? Really __________________________________________________________________ It doesn't matter if he sped on the way to the rock on a short section of the straight road heading out there. He's only going to get a ticket for this act if he is caught and it won't be a thing that screws over every other driver like you are potentially advocating a climber do to other climbers. Dude, think it over. And lets keep it off the internet too. Get involved in the process. _______________________________________________________ For myself, I'll pitch in if I can to help, but I'm somewhere else right now and trying to be focused there. BTW, this thread needs more climbing pictures is my advice:-)

I'll sell you mine when I get it then.

He who shall remain nameless? LOL! Isn't that hole missing a screen and a film canister? __________________________________________________________________________ Some of the best shit ever right here: "Tappet Brother 1 stranger Registered: 03/08/09 Posts: 1 TRs: 0 Photos: 15" SEE THAT? 15 PHOTOS (all kick assed too) AND 1 POST! THAT THERE MAY BE AN UBER MENSCH SIGHTING MY BROTHERS! LINK FOR KEVBONE _____________________________________________________________________________ ....and yeah, what Tyler said about the pics, nice job all the way around.

When we did the FA of Lone Wolf and the Last Hurrah, I found that on the rock on a little ledge and put it in my pocket....I was like WTF is this doing here??? When I got down it had fallen out of my pocket and was no where to be found. I think perhaps it wants to stay there LCK.

Gay as in extremely happy! Awesome stuff!!!! What an incredible trip you must have had.

Yup Gary, adding to what Keith said- start in the early AM and get the fire good and hot with hardwoods and then pull some stones out and put them inside the cavity. The other missing step that really helps in pulling it out, is wrapping the entire thing with chicken wire before you bury it in the coals in the pit (or some kind of wire to hold the thing together to facilitate pulling it out). Depending on Pig size, you might cook it longer than that if its a big one. ps, one of the guys who lived in this commune thing where we use to do the annual pig roast/acidtrip/band play/beer fest still has pig roast get togethers 33 years later. Even though he does this regularly, he now just rents a big metal barbecue that has a spit that is electricaly rotated over standard Kingsford briquettes. You might consider that as well. It's easier to tell when the pig is done:-)

http://www.nata.org/jat/readers/archives/jt0200/jt020000168p.pdf For you climbers who just tweaked a finger, nice article here with plenty of details to start with once you got her iced down.

Anywhere on trivia news sir! Perhaps you can use this one to get off for your collection! However, didn't she already have her 15 min of fame, like, she's so YESTERDAYYYYY!

LOL!!!!!!!!!!! "Teller Couldn't Read Robbery Suspect's Note Police: Stephanie Martin Re-Wrote Threatening Note On Bank Slip HILLSBORO, Ore. -- A 30-year-old woman tried to rob a bank Wednesday by handing a teller a threatening note, but the teller couldn't read her handwriting, police said. Hillsboro police said Stephanie Martin walked into a Wells Fargo bank in Hillsboro and handed the teller a note that read, "Need $300 or I'll kill you. I'm serious." The teller told Martin she couldn't read the handwriting, police said. Martin then walked to a counter and re-wrote the note on a bank slip, according to Lt. Mike Rouches, of the Hillsboro Police Department. The teller then hit the silent alarm and the bank's manager asked how he could help Martin, Rouches said. Martin then said she wanted to open an account with the bank, according to officers. Police and FBI agents arrived at the scene and arrested Martin, who police determined was under the influence of drugs, Rouches said." ________________________________________________________________ After viewing the picture of the "Alleged" perp, 3 of 4 CC.com uses agre that you'd hit that Porter:-)