eric8

just give it a light rub with steel wool

I bet luna gets tagged pretty frequently compared to some others How about Agnes, Swiss or Davis, just guesses

I wrote out my bootie theory once here it is... **My bootie theory is based on equilibrium, every climber loses gear, every climber finds gear. Dirt bags we be less likely to leave or lose gear as it is more valuable to them yuppie arcterx soft shell wearing capicino drinking suburau driving climbers are more likely to leave gear. The amount of gear you leave is directly related to where wear you fall on this spectrum. I believe I fall right in the middle which means for every piece of gear I find I lose a peice of equal value. For Example here have been my bootie transctions for the last year in order. Found nut on Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Bombers, found sling and hex on Godizilla but let Paul take them, lost a double length spectra sling at index lesson should have taken either the hex or sling from Paul, left biner rapping off a climb in Lilloet, VERY NEXT weekend find biner rapping off a route in lilloet, drop the nut I found earlier at Index off OuterSpace, very next weekend find atc. Lesson if you happen to find a perfectly mint # 3 camalot and think I'm a dirt bag start watching your cams like you watched girls in gym class.

I don't use chalk and offend find that the only time I want it is right after climbing a route that someone just applied chalk liberally too So everyone stop using chalk, beeyotch

oh something tells me there will be a surplus of 'photographers'

Will trade a #1 tech friend and either a red tcu really good condition or a older .75 U steam camalot still good though for a #2 tech friend in decent condition trying to set up my rack so all of 1 kind and no odd balls

haha, i was going to sleep on the ground but was reminded of ticks as i put my bag down so i spent a slightly less comfortable but tick free night in the car. Still pulled 2 out of my hair the next day when i was done climbing.

Sweet topic Jens, I was actually going online to ask about wide cracks in llworth I think midnight might be the place for wide crack practice. twincracks as mentioned rollarcoaster chimney others ? plus you could do damination on the way up. Isn't shot down in the flames supposed to get wide higher up? There is 4 in the same area more or less Doesn't the guy who did supercrack automatically win wide crack master? I remeber looking in the guide book and seeing something like pro to 5, 5.12+

Next your friend says he climbed outerspace your going to look at him differently escially if he says he did the direct variation and there were other parties on route.

My friends and I have used ice terms before has in "Dude, the ice is in" I'm going to get some "Its rotten in places" I might be able to pull it off, ground fall potential though "That climb is melted out" Good Luck with that

IMO and obviously not everyone agrees is that r&d is overrated. The handcrack and slab we fun but the rest of the route lacks quality, the only memorable part of is was the loose gravel. I have done the first pitch of midway and thought it was classic, should have gone to the top. As far as begging alpine stuff how about the stuff around cascade pass. Either route on Sahale, Eldo, etc. What about the west ridge of forbidden, sharkfin or sw ridge of tourment, I ask because i have never done them but that is where I would take a newbie. Wa pass also as many newbie friendly routes around, thats right there are other fun routes aside from the Beckey route.

I'm going to have to respectfully disagree with r&d route. I think it is just about the worst route I have climbed at 11worth. West Ridge of Forbidden has not been mentioned?

Pearly gates has some nice 5.8 cracks

the dude sure uses the wide angle lenses alot

I agree with e-rock. techinically thin fingers approach is harder than princly. princly just has a lot of 5.8 terrian with some 5.9 so it feels harder. Orange Sunshine is easy for 5.10b. Actually i think it is easy for 10a. its mostly 5.8-5.9 fingers. Here is my hardest for each grade that shouldn't be graded the next grade up 5.7 pitch two of Canary 5.8 Tarus(Aries), if someone can lead this they are a solid 5.8 leader 5.9 Princly A 5.10a Cocane Crack

did hubba hubba today its alright, climbed at the millenium walls last week and one was really good from the highway the pencil is definetly not in Dury looked okay but I have never climbed it before so can't base my opinion on anything buyer beware. There is some ice in the same drainage as the pencil but higher up anyone know what those are?

ehmmic I really like that second one

Paul how many times have you used alp wings? I haven't used bd tools very often but haven't noticed the difference, its 3cm. Fern I have alp wings like them and wish I had money for tech wings too but don't.

perhaps slothrop could post one of my arm for you cracked but I think he was to busy admining first aid

as of late december the pins and the attached slings closest to the ground were still there

with cbs reply he kinda proves your point about mounties being all up tight even if you were just joking

Anyone ever done that John Long work or the variation mentioned in the new rock and ice?

I'm with you tex. I don't ski and aren't interested in taking up another sport. Although I'm considering getting some skis to approach stuff. But you could consider building a home wall or crack that you can adjust the width, etc.

To bad you didn't have more time and money cuz it would have been nice to get wayne a padded t-shirt for all the chestbeating the moderators a toliet for all the crap they have to put up with. new names for the other 12 Erics that post here