Buckaroo

This was on July 10th. The bowl on the backside of Liberty Bell group. Believe that's Cutthroat on the right edge

Probably not, most of the numbers are in Mounties and they are always roped. Probably 1/4 or less are soloing.

The Tooth is worthy, the Mounties and the rocks they trundle are objective hazard training. I like to solo laps on it. I've done 4 laps including the approach gully that goes direct to Pineapple pass. Wondering what the record is for laps in a day, and do you down climb or rap on speed ascents? I've done it both ways.

In Russia where they have more bears and less money they use road flares. bear spray causes bears pain and pisses them off. The smell of it also attracts other bears from a distance the smoke from flares inundates a bears primary sense, it's sense of smell. Essentially blinding/confusing them and they freak out and back away. They also have an instinctual fear of fire. I learned this after being charged by a mother grizzly, luckily it was a bluff charge. The mistake I made was keeping food in camp. I has to be kept 100+ yards crosswind. there are certain times when bears are more of a problem, like when the blueberry crop is low and they can't find food. there is also safety in numbers. If you can find a group or wait at a trailhead and go with a large group it's safer.

This is a tough question. It depends if you want to train to "climb to fall". It's like sport climbing where you climb past your limit and just try the move even if you think you will fall. Compared to an alpine climb with crappy gear where you don't try the move if you don't think you can make it. Do you feel out the move and downclimb if it doesn't feel right or do you just try until you fall? It's personal preference, me I don't usually climb to fall unless it's a sport route. I always try to make sure I can make the move so I fall very rarely on gear. Maybe because I alpine so much, either solo or marginal gear I don't want to practice to fall. Maybe I don't get as high of numbers as I could this way but numbers aren't everything. It is good though to jump off on some gear once in awhile, set 2 bomber pieces (not equalized but close), use locker beaners if you'd like, and just jump off. That way you will climb better in your range because you won't be as gripped worrying about the gear. Learning to place good gear and learning what will hold is another aspect of this whole question. And it's already been said, aid is the quickest way to learn. You can learn by leading a lot of gear routes but it's a slower learning process. If I'm coming off the couch having not placed gear in a while I will run a couple laps on City Park just to brush up.

I think it depends on your reach, if you are short it's def 5.10c.

the descent is simple the entire south side is walkable, you can draw it on a map, it's condition dependent though, if it's cold at night and no sunshine it may be icy on the glacier. There is an alternative but it's a little further hike. If you're doing it from the road you're going to be in the dark. This is not really a multi pitch rock route, this is big alpine. It's a few roped pitches and a bunch of exposed scrambling. You have to be fast on simul climbing.

There's an easy trick to camping at WA pass, just drive down the East side to the first campground on the left, it's a couple miles from the pass and it's dry enough to where there's no skeeters. Of course you have to fight them on the climbs but at least you can sleep. I have a horror story to tell. When I first climbed Liberty crack we did it in 2 days with fixed ropes. We bivied at the base and my buddy didn't have any netting for his bivy sack. He was afraid to seal it up tight so he just left an opening for his mouth. The mosquitoes bit him on the mouth all night and chased him up the first 3 pitches. He was about to lose it and his lips were swollen big time.

they are very narrow, they are actually narrower than a Metoleus TCU. Work really good for flaring cracks. Really good for aid too.

For only a week the best bet for multi-pitch is probably WA pass. Check Nelson's Selected. The Enchantments is longer approaches and a difficult overnight camping permit situation. West Ridge of Prussik is a 5.7 but it's a long day if you don't camp, and there might be snow crossings. 5.8 multi pitch is a sparse range, 5.9 has more stuff. Must do's would be Outer Space, mostly 5.8 but it has a 5.9 crux. Dreamer at Darrington is another classic, mostly 5.8 but some 5.9. Both snow free already. At WA Pass. (all short approach) South Arete of South Early Winter Spire long 5.4, nice summit. The Becky Route, Overexposure, and NW Face are all good on Liberty Bell and 5.8 or less. But there might still be snow in the approach gully in June. Great Northern Slab at Index, 3 pitches of 5.7 for an off day, crag with very short approach. You really can't go wrong with Nelson's Selected but the weather is a factor, the end of July is a little better than June. and the further East you go in the state is better. The Olympics get more rain than anywhere. Even when the weather is rainy/cloudy it seems like WA Pass is in a dry zone, likewise most of Leavenworth. Anything 5.8 or less at Castle Rock, Leavenworth, all trad. (short crags)

There will be snow in the approach gully but the route will be clear. take an axe or pick up a stick on approach I wouldn't want to climb it in ski boots, too much friction/slab action

The biggest mistake people make while climbing ice is climbing when the ambient temp is too warm. I see TR's every year, like people on falls that are half formed with a patch of water running in the middle. That's a death wish. I think it's common here in WA because the ice is so scarce people get out on it just because it's formed without a regard for if it's safe. Ice forms over several cold days. Once it starts warming above that forming temp it doesn't always collapse all at once but it's dangerous as soon as it starts getting warm. Ice doesn't really form until it gets about 25F and it starts degrading about 30F. So 30F is into the danger zone. You need to carry a thermometer and keep it on the outside of your pack. With the recent accident in Yellowstone the highs were getting to 35F or 40F. Way too warm, just the time of year tells you that. When I was young and naive me and Super Dave hiked up to the falls above the boy scout ranch below Chrystal. We right away noticed small stuff flaking off and coming down. We decided it didn't feel right. As we turned to go half the falls came down. This is the same falls that have killed 2 different parties. With the advent of online weather reports and remote weather stations there's no excuse for even leaving the house when it's too warm but it happens all the time. Only free hanging stuff falls without warning. Otherwise the only reason waterfall ice comes down is because it's too warm. Pay attention to the temps and stay alive.

RIP fellow climbers but IMHO it was too late season, too warm to be on waterfall ice in the lower 48

yeah, me too, he is in the headlines at CC

Change the title of the thread, it's an attempt no longer kudos

Well after climbing OS Saturday for the 7th time have to say the hand crack pitch is the best hand crack in the state. 140' of perfect hands and it's slightly flared so it fits all size hands. Nice knobs for the feet too so you don't hurt your toes wedging them. It was like climbing the thing all over again since it had been 10 years since I climbed it last. funny how there was only one other party on it on a sunny Saturday. Maybe because it was raining in Seattle and it was a little cold in Leavenworth

You sometimes wonder which side is which, I mean look at all the Chester molesters on the "good" side. the next pope, Pope Chester Paul the 1st.

I wouldn't weld, bolt or rivet. It's possible it's not even a weldable alloy, if it's not welded anywhere originally Most likely it's heat treated also, so welding will bring it to full soft condition in the HAZ and it will break right away. just make a repair strip of similar material and rivet or bolt, or just overlap it where it's at a make a similar joint to the one that's already there.

He's doing the NE Ridge cuz the regular route has a 16 yrs age limit. But he has his lucky kangaroo testicles so he should make it. He's fricking 5'10" 160 lbs, hella big for 13.

he said he was off route "for the 2nd to the last 200ft" so he's talking height not distance off to the side.

Agree on HOTC, but thought that's the 2nd pitch? It's harder than OS because OS is not vertical. Agree on 2nd pitch of Davis-Holland also.

When you go to high altitude hydration is more important than food. I would take some Cytomax and some GU energy gells. One thing I noticed on a long trip is that canned fish really hits the spot, like herring or sardines. Get the ones in aluminum for less weight.

I don't like glacier glasses with the leather sides cuz they cut off your peripheral vision. cheap wraparound dark sunglasses, but I've never been above 14K so don't know about high altitude.

Yeah, like maybe she wasn't in the braking position when he hit the rope, maybe he didn't yell falling either, that's something you have to practice also.