ivan

nice! that east side route seems pretty well-traveled now, but i wouldnt' want to go down it w/o a rope though - i'd feel damn scared not having the ability to bail back down the route too...

if you decide to swap out the anchor at the top of pipedream, joe, be sure to change out the other anchor 30 meters lower and halfway over to jensens - i thought about stopping there first until i got even w/ and got a good look at it!

Trip: Beacon Rawk - Windsurfer/Pipedream Date: 9/1/2008 Trip Report: great day at the big b - taste of fall in the air - lotza folks in the house - jimmy o and fighting the Man - warmed up on little wing n' jills - first time climbing w/ moof, a good guy and hella patient! spent far too much time laying seige to pipedream - pulled the first pin on the traverse off the ledge out w/ my fingers, just by touching it - the next next pin and 1/4 inch bolt held, but rightly belong in the goddamn smithsonian pipedream took a long, long time as an aid climb - typical beacon story for a route that hasn's seen traffic in god knows how long - lots of gardening and cleanign and now i'm blind - 160 feet is a looooong pitch - it's all clean now 'cept a giant blackberry bush just below the less-than-inspiring anchor (get at it joe!) - i was frustrated the last 10 feet as i was out of bigish gear and was contending w/ the demon bush and a sloping ledge that was 120% 1000 year old fern - my one fall on the route came 3 feet below the anchor - a nut blew as i aided through the thorns and i took a nice long ride of 30 feet or more - enjoyed getting to free climb back through that section, which would be classic if it wasn't such a motherfucker to get to - eschewed the topout to the trail and did a double rope rap back to the anchor at windsurfer my first time using hooks! the giant eagle talon worked great as both a cleaning tool and sod-sticker. a fantastic end to my summer and now it's back to school in the morning, but at least i didn't spend all day dreading it! my carharts resembled a dali painting by days end from the kaladioscope of lichen colors nature hate crime again! and will the complete stepphenwulf fall by my gumby hands on saturday? time will tell... :) Gear Notes: x3 .5, .75, 1, 2 x2 3 lotza brassies (key) x3 aliens x2 sets of nuts Approach Notes: moist

i'm there - spent the day cleaning out and aid-fucking pipedream - all good now except the gianormus blackberry bush that's conviently located just under the craptacular anchors at the 160 mark - took a giant screamer right there, just 3 feet from the anchor and got to discover that the lower 40 feet is indeed a fine free climb, w/ the benefit of a tr

hmm...going out there right now...maybe that'll be on the block after pipedream? was looking at doing that last week after the dutchman but noted it was brushy. flying swallow doesn't need much work at all, but if you were to clean the last pitch of flight time, that'd be rad (and check out the anchor there at the same time, as from a column away it looks like a death trap currently) never clean the first 20 feet of any of those roof routes! that's were the best of those pure adrenaline holy-fuck-i'm-gonna-die moments are to be had out at beacon!

alright then, all the sad, psychotic fucks who got into climbing as an alternative to suicide - please raise your hands!

that about covers it for me! good shit, kij!

good to see that in sailing, as in climbing, it's critical to have snazzily colored action suits!

good luck - don't forget the tr! or doug's direct, for that matter...

I agree with mythosgrl.... i totally disagree w/ the both of you - what a boring story so far! and that last pic, god! wtf? you couldn't free that?!? so when do we get to see/hear the next part? when? when? when?

which part did you find the most spooky matt?

can you please include a dictionary on your next tr so i can understand the jargon? sounds awesome - if only i didn't hate the sea, and everythign in it!

i was talking about mexico and parts south - can't argue w/ your evaluation of their sad histories, but i don't think it's much different from our own - the rich fucking the poor is one of the great themes of human history, no? still, the international prohibition of drugs has lowered the whole shooting match a couple circles of hell further down.

i seem to recall the belayer could actually get into a cave just above the infamous chimney while belaying the next pitch above - a good thing too, since you're right, it's stupid chossy - still, what a fantastic route, eh? the setting is just spectacular...

almost did it last week after doing bluebird w/ denalidave - he had to home pretty soon though and i'm still unclear as to how to get back down or walkoff after doing riverside, so we did a simul-solo of the corner, after which i got arrested by The Man - turns out that doing riverside probably woulda worked out better for me! anyhow, what is the best way for finishing off that climb? i can't see an anchor to lower off of, and the upper part looks stupid overgrown and i've about had it w/ fucking around in the upper amphitheatre after nearly killing kev and a couple other folks last fall...

dude, bug, the drug thing is what created the gangs in the first place! it is their driving engine - after the gangs reached walmart size though they, like any other business, figured they needed to diversify and so they expanded into other lucrative black-market ventures, like kidnapping - get rid of the drug engine though and the police corruption will dissappear (well, at least it'll just be that sweet corporate-take-over-of-government kinda corruption that every red-blooded american can get behind) - kidnapping is not going to be so profitable on its own that you'll have these monster criminal organizations powerful enough to buy off an entire nations law enforcement but again, drugs make the baby jesus cry...

Are you going to try to free pipedream? are you confusing me w/ some sort of free-climbing hardman?!? i'll free what i can and aid/french the rest. have you done it?

it wasn't an X when i did it, but then maybe all the rock that i was holding up that one nut has flaked away now? it's actually a really interesting rock formation there at the chimney - some kind of delicate, shiny patina of rock that contacted the underlying gneiss and has mostly flaked off now

exactly - but america knows that it makes the baby jesus cry when jay and silient bob smoke a joint, so for that, we must destroy the whole fucking 3rd world how much longer will this unfathomable prohibition last?

i can't see gustav helping the gop - it seems a direct hit on the big easy would likely destroy the town all over again, and the current gov will take huge criticism for not having fixed the goddamn levees despite the katrina disaster - true, it might well be the fault of the local/state gov, but the perception of incompetence of the reps at the national level will be all that matters

if you can't find one, i'd recommend soloing the route - the only sketch part is the shitty chimney, but you'll need to have a rope for the raps on the escape anyhow, and you can just skip the chimney by rapping into the gully nearby it wish i could go - it's a climb worth repeating every year, no doubt! don't miss the fantastic bivy on the slabs just beside the glacier, just above the chimney!

tvash's curse is that he's articulate and fucking funny, but surronded by nit-wit-half-fuck-breed's like meself

one who suffers (badly) from logorrhoea?

do you have to break a law to get fucked by the police?

the same number have died in office of natural causes (4), and depending on how you want to look at it, many more probably died prematurely (within a few years) after leaving office, likely do to the stresses involved in the job (wilson and lbj surely qualify)