ivan

Sounds like 'Sailor Bar Gulley' I think its like grade 2+.. mellow but fun. no way it was 2 - tall, vertical icefalls - 3 tiers i think - off the canuckistani 1 (maybe a 2 minute approach, but nowhere to park - big sign just before it saying no parking due to avi danger) - maybe 30 km's east of hope? huh, no idea then... wish we'd had time to stop and check it out - ah, the tyranny of time and family...

I've seen a trip report on this site for that climb haven't I? I think I'll pass.....I like adventure as much as the next guy, but that might be a bit much for me. Sorry to focus on numbers....I'm happy to climb 5.4 or even 4th class routes that are fun, but I need to limit the search somewhat in order to recieve helpful answers. Otherwise people will suggest 5.10 routes I can't climb and glacier slogs I'd rather not travel for. That's all. Thanks for the help though, everyone. These are some really good ideas. ok - i wouldn't dismiss it out of hand b/c of me though check out the various tr's on it here - it's not dangerous, just very easy to get to, very long, very exciting, very scenic and spectacular, and generally a climb that anyone who drives up the rd to cascade pass must dream about doing, given its instantaneous and spellbinding effect on the first glimpse - it's a mix of vertical forest, steep heather slopes, rock-scrambling (the crux is a 1/4 pitch chimney that's more realistically 5.8), then steepish glacier (in short, every kind of challenge the cascade's can throw at you rolled into one big mountain route - doable in 2 days)

Sounds like 'Sailor Bar Gulley' I think its like grade 2+.. mellow but fun. no way it was 2 - tall, vertical icefalls - 3 tiers i think - off the canuckistani 1 (maybe a 2 minute approach, but nowhere to park - big sign just before it saying no parking due to avi danger) - maybe 30 km's east of hope?

can't argue w/ that - slesse should be very high on your list of priorites, but it does come w/ the caveat that you gotta pay attention beforehand to the condition of the pocket-glacier that menaces its approach and can/has killed climbers before

if you want to experience badass cascade old-school alpine hardmanedness, make johannesburg's north east buttress a top priority - it's a grade v climb that's *only* 5.6 (and holy shit, only a 15 minute approach!!!) but is a prime example of how concentrating on #'s like that is just silly - if you don't die, it'll be one of the coolest climbs you've ever done, even if you can climb 5.13

bill, have you not noticed how much hood's glaciers have declined over your lifetime? i've climbed on that mtn for less than a decade and noticed major declines that can't be reversed by just a couple of years of huge snowfalls.

found this pic of yours from this year dru - goddamn i wish it had looked more like this! as it was, it was kinda more like a water-park back in virginia - a huge pissing cunt of death sent giant spurts of water out every few seconds that splattered over much of the 1st pitch - in the center of the formation there was an active waterstream coursing over the ice - it made the ice down low very interesting though, everything was coated w/ golf-ball sized diamonds that could be kicked through to add a little security the approach here looks way more casual too

we climbed the first pitch on the left side on very kewl/funky jeweled ice to a cave, then rapped on v-threads from there - the next pitch was climbable, though there might have been something funky going on above that as the waterfall was roaring - shit, the approach up the creek is (almost) adventure enough! y-day we saw a very impressive 3 pitch or so climb just east of one of the many tunnels near hope - wow, what a rugged place! my first canuckistani winter trip

i thought it was cool till my ma-in-law asked me to be her friend

cops were delivering subpoenas on xmas?

are any of your friends chicks, and if so, are they hawt?

i like the soudn of continously running water - pretty much sums up the experience for me nice folks - my father woulda lost his fucking mind watching me do such things

of course tyler, just name the place/date i still havne't been to any of the classic oregon spots, 'cept monkey face i wouldn't look for too much ryme nor reason to beacon (or any other place's) rules - mostly i do what i like wherever i am and so far that's worked okay - about the only thing that would annoy me on pipedream would be for it suddenly to have a bunch of bolts where none were before - replacing/removing old bolts ain't a big deal to me, but it is to at least one guy i really like and respect there who's been climbing there since i was still swimming around in my daddy's nutsack, so i tend to listen to him tyler, you'd dig on aiding at beacon big-time - lots of very long, very solid, very scary climbs to be had, and many in essentially FA conditions

jeebus!

wait...you can get hurt bouldering? shit! bummer dude - i'm damn near intolerable when in peak health! my family would have to have me tranquilized if i was in your position

so....you didn't achieve enlightenment along the way?

"it's a fool who looks for logic in the chambers of the human heart"

yeah, jim likes all originals to be left in place - i'd def like to be in on checking on those other anchors, as they're at the top of axe of karma/silver crow

it's impossible - maybe just wear some of them mariyln manson kinda contacts? mostly you just gotta not sweat so much, which for me means losing 40 lbs of ugly fat and maybe cutting off my head too

but my cousin walter is cooler than all of them - true story: [video:youtube]

sure, 'cept the first pitch

i would but i'm going north to climb ice after xmas for a half week or so, maybe in the new year? (we still have a solid month - i wanna finish that neo-stone age aid line of lolp too and recover my fixed line) the only bolt that oughta be replaced is that one off the anchor - be sure to leave the original or suffer the ire of jim opdyck - don't add any bolts on the pitch - the thin ass nature of the line is half the fun, plus the history book says it has been freed in the existing condition, so it'd be heresy to change it - the upper anchor bolt could use a swap-out, but leave the fixed pin as its solid - the lower bolt anchor on the ledge is totally new shit of course i think that climb would be crazy in its icy state right now, quite beyond the realm of anything i'd thing sane! take pix! oh yeah, and if i'm around, i'll be glad to take the winter version of the 5 hour belay

mike, why couldn't you have combined w/ the increasingly defunct annual picture competition?

nah, i'm thinking there'll be a more exclusive, inner-most circle for you, heretic still - take a look above - you're telling me that, if she's good enough for hte big G to choose as his baby's-mama, that my hard-on's inappropriate?

looks reminiscent of vesper peak's money pitch