ivan

thanx for the invite wayne - i can't tarry further away from the ranch than hood this week regretably - if someone would quit fucking around and invent a teleporter already...

it was a pleasant diversion from the big cam-defying funky crack/chimney, and when it ended in nastiness, i was able to lean way out and get a #4 back into the left system and follow it up - was dismayed at first to think i wouldn't be able to get back to the jensen's notch (the rimjob spits you out in this very funky and cool cave, painted in this thick wild orange, small-grained lichen) and have to make a sketchy anchor, but luckily a small face crack and some decent chimney climbing got me back to the happy place

Trip: Beacon Rawk - Jensen's Rimjob (5.8 C2 (5.12?) III - 5 pitches) Date: 11/23/2008 Trip Report: do you have a shit-ton of big-gear lying 'round the house and no clue where to put it to use? then here's the route for you! inside the vortex today - dry-heaved and almost blew-chunks all over myself after getting a lung-full of lichen denalidave = patient belayer, here pimped out w/ all our colorful shit we skipped the optional hard pitch to get to the notch - climbing the original first pitch in hurricane force winds was challenge enough cool weather - is that st. peters across the way? the wind made for trippy waves the .11a finger crack at the start of pitch 3 - did it w/ aiders this time - note the hurricane carrying off my etriers - spent most of the day cursing and trying to reclaim them can't say that i'm the first to have climbed the route i'm dubbing "jensen's rimjob," but there's no history or route name in the olson guide - it's a fun, aid-tacular optional end to jensen's ridge that ultimately returns to the nothc a half pitch below the trail - we used all the big gear we brought - was hoping ot stick to the left, wide chimney the whole way, but was forced right - eventually had to zig-zag back left to avoid giant stacked block death land - veeeery overhanging! dusk fell as we topped out the last technical pitch and scrambled up to the trail - venus and jupiter approach - brilliant, blustery day Gear Notes: your menu of big gear 1 #6 2 #5 2 #4 1 #3.5 2 #3 3 #2 smaller shit 2 #1 2 .75 3 .5 3 yellow alien 2 green alien 1 blue alien couple big nuts camels Approach Notes: the old reliable

Where did you get the idea Ivan and I were going to bolt at Beacon? maybe since he heard that i ordered the only existing version of that cool bolt-gun thingy from "vertical limit?"

did he also have a thing for spinanch and girls named olive oil?

nobody for sunday?!? the forecast is awesome!

that's a good question - are there any other questions?

is it the same as the second rule?

He was the leader of the ANC's armed wing Umkhonto we Sizwe and lead a bombing campaign. Mandela was a violent terrorist. yeah, i knew that bill, i don't knwo that i;m suggesting anything other than that we make our own monsters when we imprison folks who have done nothing wrong

i think most folks would acknowledge mandela is a remarkable man, and not the sort of person to compare the rest of the world to though - he also got his revenge, in a sense, by winning (seeing apartheid destroyed and becoming president) - if he'd been pardoned or released a decade earlier, when teh bad guys were still in power, who's to say he wouldn't have become a violent terrorist?

say you were innocent - now say you were held in 7 years by a nation of fucktards that didn't care - now say they let you out - why WOULDN'T you want to get some revenge?

i thought i was offering moral support - its sad to see partner requests get buried under the deluge - i should know - no one ever wants to climb w/ me

just in time for rainy ass winter!

don't hold your breath waiting for me to bolt it bill - i've placed one bolt in my life, and you had to brow-beat me to do it if i was to bolt it though, i'd use adamantium - then only wolverine would be able to chop, and he's gay, so he'd approve...

I can't decide - at some point you can't unfuck the fuck-up, eh?

uh, if The Man wanted to declare martial law and keep obama from becomign pres, i'd think the nat guards of idaho and montana would be all FOR that - so why take their guns? it's them goddamn californians and other assorted blue states you'd want to strip!

If I have the story right. It was chopped because of ego......has it seen an accent sans bolts? time for a history lesson. legend has it that 'the phantom' didn't like that a rap bolted route was put up ( or down ) off land of the little people. nathan went back up and bolted it on lead using gear and bolts and it was chopped again. even jim o wanted it to stay or at least that's what he told me. only the first bolt is missing though. new age, new era - lets fix that fucker - i'd love to be able to chill and belay from that ledge (or alternatively look down in horror at my asshole pimp'n it while thrutch-fuckign around) - very cool ground above there

holy shit - old larry's posting TR's these days! how was your bivy on da party-ledge last saturday? i was bummed not to be able to join you on so windy an evening...

there's nothing fake about nailing katie morgan either!

well, i gotta do something to relieve the inner tension while searching for my next rape-victim!

i don't understand - you appear to have liked your route - does this mean you like mixed routes, or that you wouldn't describe your route as mixed? an example of a mixed route i like - young warriors at beacon - 4 pitches - 2 mostly bolted, 2 more almost entirely on gear

i like mixed routes - kinda like humping a nice, wholesome american-pie, chick-next-door kinda girl who also happens to have fake tits you know, to break up the monotony?

looking for a fool for sunday at beacon also, anyone interested in hood after t-giving? n face? sandy?