ivan

frak'n'awesome -and in better style, too, right? didn't you fwa boys fix the first couple of ptiches? (not to diminsh da kewlness of course )

Just what in the hell makes you think this trick will show up on her W-2? well, the fact that national news is carrying the story might be a good reason to go ahead and declare it i imagine the bunny ranch gets a fair amount of tax oversight too! shit, they probably have to do the witholding, no?

spaiding? sport-aiding? what i meant by it'll work out is i'd wager it'll get chopped soon and dudes won't re-install it b/c they'll lack the willpower or cash or both to do so if they retro-bolted an old aid line that was documented in the portland rock guide, then clearly its unforgivable if they bolted an aid line on a section of rock where they could have got by w/ modern aid-widgetery, then clearly its unforgivable it they bolted an aid ladder where no route had been before and it could not go any other way, then it's a judgement call, which i'm inclined not to disagree with - an aid ladder to nowhere is pretty lame though i'd agree can't we just talk shit about them, not let them sit at our lunch table, and generally try to provoke them into developing an eating-disorder?

ahhh...i have you next time may i suggest chucking The Nitro!?!

"whoa! he just made the international sign of the donut!"

i admit i've been drinking too much cheap wine for a sunday night, but wtf?

anti-pottypes = neo-nazi-ass-pix-of-large-house-cat-wanna-fuck-in-the-ass-hater-mother-fucker-munches

niiice. now here's hoping i can remember something 2 weeks in advance!

just watched "mars attacks" w/ the kidoes last night - great shit! does it count as a mars movie if they come here?

jimmy o, the beacon patriarch, was talking 'bout doing some sorta season closer at his place,which given my current and deeply dark mode, would be a fucking godsend - kev or pink might be the best mouthpieces for him, the anti-godfather of allthings internetish...

at first i was like - holy fucking shit - next decade?!? - then i remembered that's like, next year and what not reckon it don't matter too much for a vancouver boy like me...madrone will always be a random crag to visit, given the drive time - still,it'll be nice when it doesn't have to be poached...

you should climb meth-rage, cc!

so...ballpark guestimate: when will we be able to (legally) climb at madrone again?

i've never seen temps near -10 in the cascades and if it's temp in my pocket anyway, i'm probably dead already, no?

mengele's crimes might be forgivable if he used his ill-gotten tecnology to increase the earth's population of elizabeth hurley replicas...

yes! like sands through the hourglass, so are the days of our lives!

ban mimes?

nice! i got my fill yday though - looking forward to checking out your handiwork next season...

these things seem to work themselves out just fine

bill and kyle played lookout the day we trundled - one of the blocks made it all way to the rail-bed and made a wonderous clanging sound when it struck metal

they came from above the ledge, about 80 feet up, just past a very old fixed pin that, w/ its ancient runner and rusted biner, marked the mysterious old-timers high point - its easy to see why they turned around - more than a thousand pounds of stone, right above your head and rope, all stacked up so that if one went, they'd all go, and you'd have to aid right through them (or free - it's actually only about 5.7 there, if only any of the holds weren't dangerously portable ) - as it stands,there's still a giant, highly levered block that's critical to topping out (so levered that a #3 fits behind it) but i wailed on it w/ everythng but a pry-bar, and it held my wieght yday, so i reckon it's good enough?

Trip: Beacon Rawk - FA/FWA Hibernal Hi-Jinx 5.7C2 Date: 1/23/2009 Trip Report: toyed w/ calling it "it takes a village" in reference to the number of folks over a long time that made contributions - maybe should call it "hibernal hijacking" though as ole'geoff seemed like he'd been abducted on occasion anyhow, it's a fine aid-nasty way to finish off to the trail direct from the land of the little people ledge full on winter conditions at beacon this, the end of the first month of the hibernian season - mid 30s, blustery - a cruel wind all day - so sad that we're about to be evicted in favor of the peregins, who were AWOL all day after chipping away at the route over the better part of 2 months, it finally went - we left larry's pin anchor midway, in part 'cuz it was so goddamn windy stopping to try to untie it would have been nuts - the wind had wrapped the slings endlessly around themselves - sure glad i brought the #6 and #5 as the pod is pretty nuts w/o them we approached via right gull - i led the first pitch in boots and it was dry enough i only placed 2 pieces geoff slayed the second pitch, but left me some tidbits for a short third pitch, which ended up being a french fest - i got the last pitch of right gull too, which was a motherfucker in current conditions we made it to the party ledge a bit after 1 - took 2 hours to aid the new line to the anchors - woulda been faster but spent a lot of time fighting the wind, blowing around like a gate on a post recently i'd cleaned these giant blocks on rap - they revealed nice thin cracks fun, icy conditions a few weeks ago not often you get to post-hole on the approach trail at the big b the roof exit from the anchor - up and then right takes you to the gully above the rap anchor down to the lolp ledge geoff cleaning the pitch - don't think he likes jugging thin lines early development Gear Notes: a large hook is the only aid widget required (well, that and 2 thin aid nuts) a #5 & 6 tame the pod (plus give you an reason for actually owning the damn things) X3 yellow, red aliens X2 green aliens, .75, #1, 2 X1 #3, blue alien 1 set of nuts

on the contrary, its put down a fine firm ice coating for climbing, and the approach and conditions on the n side at least are fantastic - we just need the wind to stop blowing and for it to cool off again and it'll be safe(er) no consolation here though - this just seems to be a freak occurence

nah, i had to ration my one smoke on day 2 - been trying to minimize the suck...

dunno - i like "hey man nice shot" hella better - perhaps we need a kevbonesque poll? [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fF7fRwVZQsE