-
Posts
18026 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
7
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Everything posted by ivan
-
[TR] Smiffistani Rawks - PickMyNoseFirLunchWall 11/14/2009
ivan replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
kenny led it, and yes, it goes easy clean now (though there's a shitty reach between 2 bolts at the start of the traverse) - or are you missing hte fact that we only climbed bubbas and bailed when i chopped the rope? -
[TR] Smiffistani Rawks - PickMyNoseFirLunchWall 11/14/2009
ivan replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
no clue - beaconben says he's done that jug a buncha time w/o incident - i checked the edge and bowsed the ropes down tight overnight so they wouldn't flap around - it could just be that, weighing 240 lbs buck-naked-rawk'n-w/-ma-cock-out, that i'm just too fawking heavy - next time i'll just ducktape the holy hell out of it - there's really no edge though, and the initial abrasion on the kermantle was about 2 inches long -
[TR] Smiffistani Rawks - PickMyNoseFirLunchWall 11/14/2009
ivan replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
red-neck olympics, day 1 [video:youtube] -
Trip: Smiffistani Rawks - PickMyNoseFirLunchWall Date: 11/14/2009 Trip Report: 3 weeks of woe and unwellness amongst the clan - time to climb firfuksakes at last - big ben was to come W/ for a soiree up the picnic lunch wall but he done used up all his kitchen passes - big hearted like he is, at least he let me borrow his sawed angles so me n' little cam kenny could have a wack at it torrential rain and sleet on the pdx escape creep - frosty skull hollow sans fire - but a great golden sunrise, calm and clear - promising portents the upper 3 pitches weren't really ready for my young padwan, so i thought he should have his way w/ bubbas b4 having to sit around watching my dumb ass all afternoon gotta luv the plw - if ya squint yer eyes it almost looks kinda valley-ish took some yelling at him in heathen tongues, but soon i bent ole'ken to the necessity of the shortfix and i joined him as he started towards the traverse of p2 cool pitch - nice and airy - the sun set on me at the belay almost immediately though and i alternated between chain-smoking, swigging boiling hot cider n' hollering every johnny cash song i could think up to stay warm kenny finishing up - he had a fun moment when the cord on his adjustable fifi parted, dumping him a couple feet below his aiders it was too late to keep going once kenny reached the promised land - no worries, i'd figured we could just fix the first 2 pitches and finish it up sunday - left all the bullshit up there and checked the edge to make certain i didn't repeat the near-death experience i had on the monkey earlier this year - it was a smooth edge and no angle, so hey, it's gotta be good - still, i figured i had 2 ropes, so threw them both down so i'd have an oh-shit line in case jesus-hated me on the jug another cold night, but plenty of shitty wine and smokes more than made up for that, plus a gut full of ramen and pizza-bread sunday morning dawned dismal - thick clouds, cold and windy - sitting in the p-lot, shit felt dodgy - ah well, let's get to it crazy cool jug this one is - 50 meters of jugging, starting 50 feet away from the wall, dangling like a dooly-bug the whole way - half way up i began to feel The Fear - gently rotating, bouncing up n' down with each stroke, and getting blown through several degrees of arc in the stiff breeze, i felt a strange twinging in rope - holy jesus i hope all is well up there - how the hell am i still cold when i'm working this hard? a few yards out from the anchor i saw it - holy shit, again?! godammit! it's not like there was any exposure or anything so, my confidence was pretty well fawked - i didn't need the fucked up rope of course, since we had another, but kenny was understably hesitant to repeat an excercise that came plenty close to greasing me - i felt like an asshole trying to drag him up there only to freeze too in the wind while i had my fun - fuck it - back to the bottom we spent awhile at the watchign catching our breaths so to speak, losing motivation - in the end i just decided to lead bubba meself again and head on back home to hang w/ the little people - kenny kleaned dude, can The Dude die? hey, at least it wasn't another fucking beacon report, eh?
-
i can't believe you never bought weed 'roudn there g-dawg she might like right gull out at beacon rock, it's chimesque in parts hey, how about the alpinejagger on crown point - scott got his wife up it the other day!
-
um, it might be best if that little hombre had his trousers trimmed asap to prevent the further slurrification of the earth sphere
-
if i can unlazy meself i got some good video of a buncha base-types hurling off the picnic wall this past saturday - it must be legal in the park i reckon?
-
i hope yer recycling all that or yer gonna make the indians
-
is that lincoln as the suicide bomber?
-
FW, spare me the agony of reading all this - which of the options below are you going w/? A) the earth is not getting warmer B) the earth is warming, it's just not the fault of mankind
-
the "we're not making the world hotter" folk remind me distinctly of amity's mayor in "jaws"
-
Lost / Stolen Gear at Smith Rock - QDs, Gri-Gri, R
ivan replied to cjw250's topic in Climber's Board
i was climbing on the plw wall y-day and 2day - a ton of traffic y-day including 3,000,000 kids, so who knows? saw ya'll up there on the wall 2day - fun route - i think i enjoy watching folks climb it more than climbing it meself -
isn't impeachment, like, for high crimes n' misdemeanors n' whatnot? what's illegal about this? as for the, holy-shit, we can't keep the american public safe if we have a trial - is this really the first trial in human history of a terrorist? i can't imagine there'll be that many guards snoozing 'roudn the courthouse
-
if you're a veteran you'd probably do best not to be reading anything on this site
-
kenny n' justin gang-banged winter delight (or is spring fever, damn gook routes all sound the same?) i solo humped wrong gull, but not the upper pitch - if i had been less hungover maybe i woulda got outta bed 'fore 9? rained till noon or so, but nice afternoon - the corner is a aquaduct currently
-
don't you have homework to be doing, fw?
-
'cuz all us bacon-boys 'r known for being such fine upstanding n' wealthy citizens, right john?
-
so pretty much ivan got his own forum... i am a village pete's just pissed 'cuz his emunclaw forum-baby keeps getting shot down
-
i've done that trip before you're lucky you didn't try throwing kentucky into the mix - almost got meself shot by a zealous security guard there - fucking coal miners! interesting piece of trivia - anyone know the previous name for pennsylvania's highpt (black mtn) 'fore someone thought maybe it wasn't so PC?
-
do any of these go clean or do I need a hammer? LCK turned me on to spring fever. Thinking thats next on my list they all go clean and they all reach grassy ledges in 2 proud pitches and will likely take you the whole day this time of year - you'll want hooks and brassies and very small cams (black aliens/00 metollius plus blue aliens/0 metollius) - if you do spring fever you might as well continue up bluebird
-
i liked baseball 'cuz there were few rules - basketball, by comparison, pissed me 'cuz it was rare the game i didn't foul out by the 3rd quarter i usually was playing baseball in the south or on an army base, so it was usually only half-honkey
-
what'eva, oh-uber-jaded one as a kid, baeball was my favorite sport to play - simple as that - i liked throwing a ball as far as i could, i liked smacking the shit out of something w/ a giant bat, i liked catching a ball that had flown 300 feet through the air by the time i got to it, i liked the mano-y-mano gladiatorial thing about facing off a guy just a few feet away hurling a rock at me skull and having to have the balls to not bail out everytime he let it go i'm w/ you on the watching of sports on t.v. though - i don't watch any sports anymore, w/ the occassional exception at a party or something - climbing is my new favorite sport, and i've always preferred getting laid to watching porn