Alpinfox

The duodess is an option (one that I didn't pay for). The color difference that you noticed results from the weave pattern having a directionality to it such that if you look at it from one angle you see the red threads more predominantly and if you look at it from the other direction you see the blue threads more predominantly. If you bend one strand of my rope over at any point along it's length so that it runs anti-parallel to itself, the two strands appear to be a slightly different color. Check this picture: See how it looks redish on the left and bluish on the right?

You and Hansel must have been . The Mammut Revelation is NOT a bipattern rope. I agree that it was stupid of Mammut to make the 5m marks the same pattern as the middle mark, but it shouldn't be very difficult to know whether you've pulled 5m or 30m through the rap anchor.

I remember hearing something about a bunch of trout fingerlings being stolen from some hatchery recently. Anyone have a link to that story? Seems likely that whoever is responsible for the Leavenworth hatchery theft likely took the trout too. I wonder if it's some ALF-type group doing a "free the fish" thing or if it's just common thieves.

It's not hard, but it is slower, slightly less convenient, and maybe slightly more error prone (see Matt's comment) than an accurate middle mark.

I wrote up a little blurb about safety while rappelling, but thought it might be a bit outside the scope of this thread, so I started a new thread for it. HERE IS A LINK

I’m not a certified climbing guide, and I’m sure there are better treatments of this subject spelled out in more detail in books somewhere, but here is my attempt to give newbie climbers (as well as reminding myself and other non-newbie climbers) some pointers on how to stay safe while rappelling. Three common and potentially fatal errors while rappelling and how to avoid them are discussed here. The first is mis-rigging the rappel device such that only one strand of rope runs through the device and carabiner. When the rappeller weights the device they begin free falling as the free end of rope whips through the rappel anchor. To avoid this accident, develop and follow a systematic protocol while rappelling that tests the rappel system prior to the rappel. An example of one such system is given here: 1) rig your belay device for the rappel 2) while you are still connected to the anchor via your daisy or a sling or whatever, take up all the slack and transfer your weight onto your rappel device. 3) Lean back. Jerk backwards. Really weight that thing. 4) If you have mis-rigged your rappel device, this test should reveal that error 5) Only then should you disconnect your daisy/sling from the anchor and start rappelling. The second error is rappelling off the ends of evenly-matched strands of rope. Some people choose to try to prevent this error by tying knots in the end of each strand of rope. (Note that tying the two ends together is NOT recommended due to twisting of the ropes resulting in a big mess). If you use this method, make sure to use an adequate stopper knot such as a double overhand or figure-8 that will not “roll”. Many people prefer to not tie knots in the ends of the strands due to the chance that the knot will become jammed in a crack or behind a flake. If you choose to not use stopper knots (and even if you do use stopper knots) look below you periodically while rappelling to confirm that BOTH strands continue below you and reach the ground (or the next rappel station). Another step that may prevent this error from becoming fatal is to have a prusik back up knot located above your belay device. The idea being that if you do rappel off the end of the rope, the prusik will tighten up on the rope and leave you hanging from the prusik rather than falling to the deck. However, folks who have tested this theory in a controlled situation found that when one rappels off the end of the rope and starts falling, the tendency is to tightly grip the prusik with one’s hand which prevents it from engaging. The third error is rappelling off the end of one of the two strands of rope that run through the belay device. This can occur when the rope is fed through the rappel station unequally. This MAY have been the situation that recently resulted in the death of a climber on Condorphamine Addiction. To avoid this error, it is a very good idea to clearly mark the middle of your rope with a dye especially made for that purpose, or buy a rope that is pre-marked. Remember to periodically remark your rope as the dye will wear off with use. It is probably a good idea to use a dye made especially for ropes (rather than a sharpie or some other permanent marker) as there is some controversy about solvents in markers potentially damaging the rope fibers. Beal is one company that makes a dye intended for use on climbing ropes. If your rope is not middle marked, be sure to match the ends while feeding the rope through the belay station to insure that the two strands will be the same length. When doing double-rope rappels, be aware that the two ropes might not be exactly the same length. Not all “60m” ropes are really 60m. Again, be sure to periodically look below you while rappelling to insure that BOTH strands continue to your target. CLICK HERE for another thread discussing some of these same issues.

Just to be extra extra pedanticly clear, here is how you can avoid dying due to this error: 1) rig your belay device for the rappel 2) while you are still connected to the anchor via your daisy or a sling or whatever, take up all the slack and transfer your weight onto your rappel device. 3) Lean back. Jerk backwards. Really weight that thing. 4) If you have mis-rigged your rappel device, this test should reveal that error 5) Only then should you disconnect your daisy/sling from the anchor and start rappelling. I know we've probably all heard this before, but I thought I'd spell it out explicitly for anyone hoping to learn the take-home message from this accident. I don't ever do the prusik back-up thing while rappelling, I hardly ever tie knots into the ends of the rope, and I seldom wear a helmet while cragging, but I pretty much always do the steps above.

Sweet! That looks fantastic guys. Congratulations.

I don't know what Gary's smoking; I think those images are terrible. That sort of image quality is OK if you are trying to prove the existence of Sasquatch, but not for pictoral storytelling. No offense intended. I'm not saying you are a bad photographer or image processor - Ansel Adams probably wouldn't have faired much better with the tools you used. The subject matter is obviously top-notch, but I wouldn't bother sharing the pics that you have posted due to their crappiness. 600X800 should be the max size for an image in a trip report (any larger and some folks with antiquated monitors will have to scroll back and forth to read the text and see the whole image). Most images in a TR would be fine at 480X640 or something and then for the really "golly gee wow" pics, use the 600X800. Filesize should be <100kb, and preferably ~50kb. This is more for page loading expediency concerns rather than server storage space concerns. I look forward to seeing more of your pics when you get a real camera. Thanks for the TR and booty alert though.

Haven't done it, but it's supposed to be a really nice flatish hike through old growth timber. Significantly longer than the col approach though. Report back with your impressions if you choose to go that way. I've considered doing it that way.

SOMETHING YOU PROBABLY DON'T CARE ABOUT HAPPENED! BUT I'M NOT GOING TO TELL YOU WHAT IT IS!!!! All the excitement of a PP post, but without the link so we know WTF you are talking about. Thanks.

Video of British troops attempting field exercises while tripping on LSD

Is there an ETA for Kurt's return home?

Fancy Footwork More (no Cindi Lauper on this one)

Forget what I said about the ferocious reptile. It's perfectly safe down there. Carry on with your search. What flavor are the slippers?

9 views and no one has found my Chaco yet!?!? WTF!? If you guys would spend that much time thrashing around in the bushes at the base of Castle Rock and fighting with rattlesnakes, I'd have a complete pair of sandals by now. Shit!

Men's size 9ish Chaco with red webbing. Just the right one. Last seen tumbling off ledge below Jello Tower. Probably ended up somewhere climber's right and below "The Fault" route on Lower Castle. Possibly could have been swallowed whole by the rattlesnake I found during my search for the lost sandal. If you find it, let me know. alpinfox at yahoo dot com.

Oh. I just had a lackey solo up the Beckey route with a bottle of Cabernet for summit celebration purposes.

yeah, make the second carry the shoes, water, and lunch. What else do you need?

Yeah, I was gonna do that one, but it was in the sun. I didn't notice. That's worrisome. Sounds fun. So I was looking over YOUR BIOGRAPHY and wondering where the interest in rock climbing came from? Was that something you got into before or after 'Nam, being buried alive, and brainwashing the population of Millville?

Thanks!

I heard Steve House lives somewhere else now. Maybe Bend. Can anyone confirm that?

Greetings to the newest member of the Bushwacker Club. Congratulations Doxey!

How much was the shipping? I've got two cams I'd like to get reslung; anybody else in Seattle have some? Perhaps we could combine our orders to save on shipping?

I was expecting that one. It seems that Mt. Thor is having the most fun. Fun is aid.