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Alpinfox

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Everything posted by Alpinfox

  1. Have some time off, some patience, good safety skills, and wanna climb with Beckey? He's got some time before he heads to AK and wants to escape the WA weather forecast for 7-10 days or so. Lemme know and I'll pass on the info.
  2. BTW, back the original subject of this thread, click HERE for a good example of a lightweight rack for easy alpine rockclimbs. Take more gear if 5.6 is going to be challenging for you (a few extra nuts and hexes are really light), less if you feel comfortable running it out. Take lots of slings (some double length) and a couple cordelettes. Lots of horns and boulders and such that you can tie off. A lighterweight 50m rope should be plenty good enough for this route. Remember to test the rock that you place your gear in. That great looking parallel-sided crack that you just placed your cam in could just expand or fall apart if weighted. Alpine rock isn't usually as solid as craggin' rock.
  3. OK. ... but I doubt this person's recommendation endangered anyone. "WRF?? OH YEAH, JUST TAKE FOUR #5 CAMALOTS AND SOME QUICKDRAWS!"
  4. Nah, let the recommendations fly! Quality is quality. 5.6 can be too. Edit: Case in point - the East ridge of Wolfshead (III, 5.6) looks awesome:
  5. Yes, she's done Minnesotan-style multi-pitch clambering before.
  6. The GF can follow 5.10, so it doesn't have to be too "chill". She is CORE, yo. However, it does have to be OMG-Blow-your-hair-back awesome climbing though.
  7. I'm quite sure that everyone posting in this thread thus far has climbed WRF at least once, with some illustrious posters having climbed in even MORE than twice!! OMG!
  8. Yeah, I nearly tripped over a grizzly cub and got my tent trampled by a bull moose last time I was in Yellowstone/Tetons.
  9. Sounds like the Big Sandy Road (access to Cirque of Towers) is not open yet. Any idea when it usually opens? John Frieh tells me that we might be early for the Elephant's Perch area as well. Too much snow. How early have ya'll climbed there? As for Vedauwoo, I don't think the GF would enjoy runout, sandbagged, off-width climbing. And if she would, I'd probably come up with some other excuse to avoid having to go there and lead stuff. Devil's Tower might be cool but is a long drive. Hey MCash, can you give me a link to more info on "Chimney" in N. ID? I've never heard of it.
  10. If homeless folks are messing with an 8ft tall guy named with the nickname "Ivan", we are all in trouble.
  11. My GF and I are headed east this weekend for about two weeks. Where should we go? What should we climb? What non-climbing things should we do? I've been to COR twice and the Tetons once. She has been to neither.
  12. Living on a moon colony would be cheaper than Freemont.
  13. A sopping wet bush needs a trim? I'll get right on that.
  14. Yeah, I ropegunned that 5.5 pitch at the top once.
  15. # Salathe' Wall / Freerider - 5.12d ** (37p: 8 5.11, 5 5.12) * FFA - Alex and Thomas Huber, 10/98 o topo (ready 11/01) o Salathe' Wall / Excalibur o uses a new 5.12a traverse and 3 previously freed Excalibur pitches to avoid the 5.13 Salathe' Headwall o used Alex Huber's variations to avoid the p19 corner and "Teflon Corner". o time: 15:25. Both climbers freed all 37 pitches. o This variation was eyed by Skinner and Piana as a "backup plan", in case they were unable to free the Salathe' Headwall o Climbing #182 * 2nd? FA - Rob Miller, Nathan Martin, 2001, 5 days * 3rd? FA - Dean Potter, 9/02, linked after doing Half Dome free He did the crux at 3:40am, using 4 headlamps (one fall, redpointed). * 4th? FA - Ben Bransby, Jvan Tresch, 10/02, 13:50 * 5th? FA - Matjaz Jeran, Miha Valic, 10/03 * 6th? FA - Steph Davis, 4/04, 4 days Led all pitches 3rd woman to free El Cap; 2nd to lead all pitches free * 7th? FA - Mike Anderson, Mark Anderson, 5/04 Mike led or followed all pitches free with no falls 6 days, including one rest day, and a day off to fly home to Salt Lake City and take an exam! they aided the Salathe' in 2002, but otherwise hadn't worked on the free pitches * 8th? FA - Steph Davis, 5/04, 22 hours 15 minutes 2nd woman to free El Cap in a day, leading all pitches started in the evening, climbed to the Alcove and slept 3 hours there crux sideways dyno above is 5.13a for 5'5" person partner - Heinz Zak * 9th? FA - Andres Cottamiata Muller, Fernando A. Ayres, 6/04 worked on the free pitches in the spring * 10th? FA - Nicolas Favresse, Seán Villanueva, Fall/04 onsighted 35 of the 36 pitches * 11th? FA - Leo Houlding, 9/05 o onsighted all but one pitch, where he took one fall (had climbed Free Blast before, but not Salathe') o Day 1: started at 10am, reached El Cap Spire bivvy at 4:20pm, 21 pitches, no falls o Day 2: started at 8am (after a cold bivvy), took one fall on p24 (5.12d crux), on top at 5:30pm o belayed by Chris Van Leuven * 12th? FA - Sean Leary, Steve Schneider, 10/05 o swapped leads to Sous le Toit ledge, then Leary led the remaining 5.12 pitches. All pitches were followed free. o Leary took one fall, leading the 5.12d Huber variation o Schneider had 3 falls, following the last 3 5.12 pitches, but returned to each belay to follow free (including reversing the 5.12 traverse). o preparation: Leary worked the route in 2004, when he nearly freed it in a day. Schneider had not tried the 5.12 Freerider variation pitches. o 3 days * 13th? FA - Tommy Caldwell, 10/05 o done in preparation for the Nose-Freerider linkup, a few days after freeing the Nose in a day o preparation: freed the Salathe' in 1999 and 2002 * 14th? FA - Tommy Caldwell, 10/05, linked with the Nose o 2 falls on p28 (5.12b flaring corner crack), partly because it was dark and hard to see the stemming footholds o 10:50 for Freerider, 23:23 elapsed time for the linkup o started at 1:36pm, on top at 12:26am o 2 hours for the first 10 pitches o on the Monster Offwidth at sunset o belayed by Chris McNamara
  16. Climb 12 different routes to the summit of Mt. Rainier, one per month, for twelve consecutive months.
  17. Alpinfox

    Bizarre PMs

    Spray iz teh knew chat.
  18. Alpinfox

    Bizarre PMs

    Chat is SOOOOOO FUCKING HAWT RIGHT NOW!!! OMG!
  19. - This is Your work. You better take care of me, Lord. If You don't, You're gonna have me on Your hands. [ Siren Wailing ] - Pull over ! Pull over ! Hey ! Good morning. How are you ? All right, man. Doing very well. Few people understand the psychology of dealing with a highway traffic cop. Your normal speeder will panic and immediately pull over to the side. - This is wrong.- It arouses contempt in the cop heart. Make the bastard chase you. He will follow. But he won't know what to make of your blinker signal that says you're about to turn right. This is to let him know you're pulling off for a proper place to talk. It'll take him a moment to realize he's about to make a 90-degree turn, at speed. But you will be ready. Brace for the "G"s. Fast heel-toe work. [ Siren Continues ] [ Siren Stops ] Hi. How are you ? Just what in the hell did you think you were doing ? I wanna know. Let me see your license. Oh, yeah, of course. There you are. Oh, my gosh. It's me. May I please have that ? I knew I was fucked. See you have two cases of beer, a basket of grapefruit... stack of T-shirts and towels, light bulbs. - You realize what you did when you drive like that ? - Yeah, I know. I'm guilty. I understand that. I knew it was a crime. I did it anyway. Shit, why argue ? I'm a fucking criminal. Look at me. You have a strange attitude. Maybe. You know, I have a feeling you need to take a nap. There's a rest area just up ahead. I'd like you to go up there, pull over and get a few hours' sleep. That's not gonna help me. I've been awake for too long. Three or four nights, maybe. Can't even remember. I go to sleep now, I'm dead for hours. What are you carrying two cases of soap for, son ? I wanna stay clean. No. Here's how it is. What I put in my book, as of noon... is that I apprehended you for driving too fast. I advised you to proceed to the next rest area. - ~ [ Humming ] Stop ! I advised you to proceed to the next rest area--your stated destination, right ? And take a long nap. Do I make myself clear ? Well... how far is Baker ? I was sort of hoping to, I don't know, stop there for lunch. It's not my jurisdiction. City limits end 5 miles beyond the rest area. Can you make it that far ? I'll try. I've been wanting to go to Baker for a long time. Yeah. Heard a lot about it. Excellent seafood. You know, I'm thinkin', a guy with your kind of mind...ought to try the land-crab. - Excellent seafood. - Land-crab. All right. Why not ? Thanks for the tip. Look at me in the eyes. Everything all right ? May I have a little kiss before you go ? I'm very lonely here. ~ Oh, Mama ~ ~ Can this really be the end ~ I felt raped. The pig had done me on all fronts. And now he was going off to chuckle about it on the west side of town... waiting for me to make a run for L.A. Why, yes, Officer. Of course I'll take advantage of that rest area. And I can't tell you how grateful I am for this break you wanna give me.
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