Gary_Yngve

What would Big Lou do?

Two summers ago, Baldwin and I returned to the Index LTW parking lot exhausted and sweating like dogs. Christine and Alasdair had just wrapped up their day and offered us cold beers. Here's to hoping Charlie and Christine are ok.

no Santa hats?

the January Climbing issue has an article on elbow pain... wonder what Mike thinks of it.

The notify-new-PM-by-email option got automatically set back to no for me (and probably everyone else). As a result I went a few days without replying to PMs because I didn't know better.

Ah yes, Apocalyptica. Cellos playing Metallica! Colin queued some up the other night. Cool stuff. I'm drifting from classical, but he also had a performer he described as "the Bob Marley from Pakistan" who was cool too. Lately I've been listening to Piazzolla at home and Grieg at work. Got a really cool CD of Vivaldi's Four Seasons interleaved with Piazzolla's Seasons.

You should be able to read about some of his latest travels on Summitpost.

If he doesn't post for a full year, he wins a handsome bet.

caught on camera From: Nathan Agrin Date: Nov 16, 2006 8:21 AM Subject: Student shot with Taser by UCPD officers in UCLA library TWICE on 11/14 ... The thing that really seems bizarre to me is that it looks like the kid may be in cuffs BEFORE he was tasered, and sources claim he was already leaving. I can understand being kicked out of the library if you don't have your ID (though I can't believe they don't have a backup system to check identification, especially since these are students... students forget their IDs, idiots!!), but to be tasered after being cuffed, while already leaving?? From the audio in the video the kid is cooperating but doesn't want to be touched, so why was he tasered?

congratulations on olyclimber's congratulations.

T - A = 0

If you think you understand quantum mechanics, you haven't studied it enough.

yay or nay? http://www.nabr.org/ http://www.noaeta.com/ Personally, I'm for the AETA if it will get http://www.uwkillsanimals.com to stop spraying graffiti on or near campus. Maybe all the animal rights extremists can volunteer to be guinea pigs for new surgeons. A hundred years ago doctors switched to animals after it became unethical to train on poor people. Certainly someday surgical training will be all VR and simulated, but we're not there yet, and no doubt many animals will be killed in the process of getting there.

vigorous sex

How's the FUN FACTOR?

http://dimacs.rutgers.edu/Workshops/Voting/slides/slides.html

CBS is a good guy. Phil's post here is much like most of his posts, which is why he's in my killfile.

Ooh, I left out some. We were lucky to find NF Kent in dynamite shape. C2C SGC in a day with blue windpants.

too bad Regula got reelected.

I don't think this is much of an issue for the Basic Course, as any 1st-year intermediate has mastered belaying, rappeling, and girth-hitching slings to trees. Where I think it's a big issue is MOFA. If I were to take their MOFA instructor training course, my WFR would make me "overqualified" to teach MOFA, yet I've never had to care for an f'ed up patient. The same lack of practical experience applies for most MOFA instructors. I think it's important that MOFA/WFA instructors have experience as EMTs, ski patrol, etc.

kevbone, if you don't like what you're reading, then don't read it. it's not like the thread was slandering you.

I was really psyched about getting the Coleman Headwall this past July, having failed on it the year earlier. I made my first trips to JTree (17 classic routes) and the Bugaboos (McTech, NER Bugaboo, WR Pigeon, Surf's Up). I did a bunch of WA classics that had been on my list for a while: ER/WR Forbidden NR Stuart SF Prusik Adams Glacier

Mike, I'm curious about what you're talking about. When I play something fast and sustained on the cello (e.g. Bach Cello Suites) for around an hour, my left arm gets numb. The arm is pretty much in a locked-off position with my hand by near my ear. If I'm playing slower lyrical stuff, then my fingers are working less and it doesn't set in. The numbness seems like it's going all the way to my shoulder. I'd like to tackle this in two ways: 1) coaching by a professional cello teacher on posture and technique to reduce tension 2) stretching, etc. to make the anatomy less likely to be impinged Do you have any ideas? Thanks, Gary

The speed of the harddrive is irrelevant. 4800 rpm vs 7200 rpm is just 1.5x. Of bigger concern is whether you have enough RAM so that you're reading RAM at 10ns or reading HD at 1ms (100000x slowdown). Another issue with the harddrive is that it might be up for a defrag (Windows has a defragmenter -- right click on C: and look for tools or management). Things are probably all messy in there, which means that the HD might have to make multiple seeks (>10ms) to find the next chunk instead of reading them in order (1ms). btw - noticed how processor speed, memory, HD size, network speed, etc., has all increased 100x in the past 10 years, but HD speed is still the same? That's because there's only so fast you can mechanically spin something before bad things happen.

I can explain the first-order physics to you, but things are way more complicated than that. I don't think we possess simulators capable of tractably reproducing what happens when a prusik is loaded until it slips. What are you specifically looking for?