Gary_Yngve

Didn't realize the two of you are bros. Your bro is a nice guy (I was his TA one summer).

my taxes were easy. standard deduction.

remember that on a 45-degree slope, 450 ft of rope is more like 300 vertical feet.

Trip: Vantage - Sunshine Wall Date: 2/17/2007 Trip Report: Yet another Vantage TR. Was there along with another dozen UW folk, bumped into the CraigG crew and the OlyClimber crew.

Jamin's crampon has become a part of him.

The other thing I see is beginners reaching for their nut tool the instant they see a nut. I'd say something like only 10% of the time do I actually need the nut tool for removing a nut (free climbing, not aid).

she's almost as attractive as the shirtless pasty-white clammy dude sporting some extra baggage around the waist who was hanging around sunshine wall on saturday.

I bought an SD800 about a month ago and have been happy with it, though I haven't had much time to shoot. The wide angle is really nice.

I'd love to go back to the Bugs, if not this summer then the following summer. I'm defending my thesis sometime this summer, so that's taking first priority, and I don't have a date scheduled yet. I'm shooting for July, but we'll see what happens. btw - I've found your topos for Index, Liberty Crack, etc., really helpful over the years!

Hey Clint, Thanks for your reply. Regarding the whole matter, their company really brightened up our day. They were taking the delays in stride, as opposed to getting aggro, such as the group of three* in front of the two gals. We ended up "onsighting" the descent down from the lower half of the S Ridge and B-S col in the dark, in which case it would have been much nicer to have caught up with them.. more daylight, less hunt-for-rap-stations games. I suppose I could have written it as "friendly Canadians" or "friendly Canadian women," but whatev... I was trying to perk up the story. Besides, I have a hot woman of my own. *One leader, two followers, one of whom was hangdogging up 5.8, vigorously using chalk, and taking his rockshoes off after every pitch. The leader passed a party of two on the first pitch, leaving them waiting while he belayed up the two followers. The three delayed everyone else for the rest of the day. The leader had no business cutting in front of the party of two already climbing the first pitch.

actually i googled for "hunters reflex," "hunter's reflex," and both of those with hypothermia added and didn't find much of anything useful.

were there any couples who came to the show, or just singles without dates?

No, you said: They specifically suggest clothes removal as the last thing before death and nowhere suggest any sort of alternation as you mention.

J Forensic Sci. 1979 Jul;24(3):543-53. "Paradoxical undressing" in fatal hypothermia. * Wedin B, * Vanggaard L, * Hirvonen J. The phenomenon called paradoxical undressing has been described from 33 cases of hypothermia collected from Swedish police reports. The cases were almost evenly distributed with regard to sex, age, and geographical distribution. The cases occurred more frequently in open land although cases from town areas were also found. Most incidents were recorded from November to February at low ambient temperatures, although cases were also reported at temperatures above 0 degree C. Arteriosclerosis and chronic alcoholism were important concomitant illnesses, the latter being frequent in middle-aged men. Epilepsy, diabetes, and pregnancy were present in single cases. Ethanol and other drugs were present in 67% of the males and in 78% of the females, ethanol predominating in men and various psychotropic agents in women. The mean blood ethanol concentration in males was 0.16% and in females, 0.18%. Most frequent findings at necropsy were purple spots or discoloration on the extremities, pulmonary edema, and gastric hemorrhages. It is concluded that paradoxical undressing might be explained by changes in peripheral vasoconstriction in the deeply hypothermic person. It represents the last effort of the victim and is followed almost immediately by unconsciousness and death. PMID: 541627 [PubMed - indexed for MEDLINE]

I wouldn't take the article cited by the OP or WeekendClimberz's comments as having much scientific validity regarding the reasoning behind paradoxical undressing.

they're called STIs now... get with the modern times

http://www.bmj.com/cgi/content/full/327/7429/1459

cook out the front, pee out the back

Wasn't Devils Club in Alpinist? As a new route in the back. Will this be a full-blown feature?

My memory is saying Dan Alyward photo of Forrest Murphy? But I could be forgetful.

Fatness! That ice looks rad!

http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/mugsstumpwinners07/

Wow, I am f'n thrashed. I was getting over a cold, and I think the cold just came back for an encore. But the climb was worth it. I had a great time climbing with Wayne. Even though I've chatted with him at Pub Clubs, read about his exploits, etc., I never really had an idea how tough he is until he ropegunned me up these five pitches. White Slabs on the right, Northern Dihedrals Direct on the left. The inset offers a little better view inside the dihedrals. We couldn't see the wall until we were roughly right across it and we had gotten above the clouds. A party was at the base of White Slabs, which may have made it easier for Wayne to get stoked about the left route. The first pitches consisted of thin runnels with the occasional mixed move. For the most part, the belays were pretty sheltered. (photo by Stoney Richards) Wayne forgot to mention that on the 2nd pitch, he had to downclimb 40 feet to retrieve the first piece he placed (a gold camalot) so he could protect the moves to come. The crux of the 2nd pitch was an off-balance dog-leg runnel of thin ice. The ice got thicker, and Wayne belayed below the base of the pillar. Wayne was happy to sink an 18cm screw to the hilt! The ice steepened considerably, and was thin in spots. Above the ice was short snow slog and then a sweet narrow icy gully. Wayne enjoyed the good ice while it lasted. Then the mixed climbing became delicate, then desperate. (photo by Stoney Richards) I flailed up the mixed moves, slipping a few times and happily hooking a fixed pin, all while wondering how the hell Wayne managed to lead it with the potential consequences of a nasty fall. The mixed moves were full-body workouts. The last pitch certainly wasn't a gimme. Some fun mixed moves, thigh-deep snow groveling, and a little bushwhacking. Capped off with a classic finish through a tunnel. We walked off the backside, scrambling down two short rock steps.

sweet!

Glad to hear that you are recovering well. I'm not the Gary you met there. I kept thinking, "A car, a car, my kingdom for a car!" when the page went off, as I've done the approach to NF Kent before, but I couldn't set up a carpool with a fellow rescuer fast enough. I took the role of in-town OL and called base to give beta for accessing Mt. Kent -- not sure how much of my info was useful or made it into the field. I heard some Tacoma folks also responded, and there was a SnoCat involved too? Also many thanks go to the physician you or your partner spoke with over the phone.