Gary_Yngve

There's a .5 Camalot about 20 feet above the belay in the crack to the left on pitch 3 of Davis-Holland. All four lobes are moving -- in fact, the cam is not overcammed. The problem is that it's in so deep that I need to stick my fingers into the crack just so my nuttool can reach the trigger. So you'll need to bring your own hanger/wire contraption, and a headlamp may be nice. Rearding D-H/LA, the 1st pitch is wet inside the crack for the middle third of the pitch, but still plenty climbable -- just protected it with nuts instead of cams. The 4th pitch is dry, including the stemming chimney.

Mike, thank Steve for the pictures. He does our entire graphical layout and web stuff.

I saw BodyWorld a few years ago in LA. Incredible experience. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...true#Post381785

Why aren't they wearing leather gloves?

Thanks for the heads-up on WD-40. I've never been screwed by it (nor have some folks I know who've been climbing since before I was born), but I do have a bottle of Metolius lube that came with a set of TCUs a few years ago buried somewhere...

First of all, be careful with your rack in the mountains (try to keep your cams out of dirt in the first place). Make sure the slings don't come into contact with any chemicals you use. I first heat up a pot of soapy boiling water and dip the heads of the cams in (one at a time) and pull the trigger bar back and forth. That usually fixes the problem. I then might spray some WD-40 on the axle/springs. http://www.tradgirl.com/climbing_faq/gear_maintenance.shtml#cleancams http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/cammaintkit.htm

Adobe Illustrator, but that may be overkill. (Basically you need vector-based graphics on top of an image -- MS Paint is strictly a pixel-based program). You can probably use Powerpoint too if you set the parameters right to resize your layout and print to PDF.

I'm really curious about the formation of chickenheads and knobs too, and why they only appear in certain parts of a cliff. Here are some other areas that come to mind: -huge chickenheads on Fote Hog in JTree (largest I've ever seen) -the traversy pitch of Burgner-Stanley from the top of the trees to the start of the chimneys -the final pitch on Loving Arms

That's Shield Lake you're looking at. Earle is beyond it and beyond that is Mesa. Lorelei Lakelets are uphill from Shield Lake toward Cannon (can access them by contouring from Prusik Pass). For the final summit chimney, don't get into it. Climb it on the outside, facing south, with maybe a single butt-cheek inside it. There are some nice face holds. I assume the two fixed cams are still there.

Comrade Jackoff, since you're an imaginary avatar, you need the Imaginary Climbing Partners forum. You may have better luck there.

My vote is Ballroom in Fremont. I'll be there at 6:00 PM. Can stay until 8:15 PM. The other places work for me too, but are an extra 10 minutes of biking.

Well, this thread speaks for itself. I thank those of you who gave useful contributions, and I thank those of you who have identified yourselves to be ignored. I still think that the board could be friendlier to newer people, but it sounds like there's no changing things, until you old-time sprayers get tired of spraying.

John, please keep the inappropriate subject headers away. I'm passionate enough about climbing to know a lot of people who post here and who don't post here. I run the UW club, am getting more involved with the Mountaineers, help with NWMJ, go on the occasional SAR mission, etc. But it's not a fulltime passion. I'm happy with the state of affairs on the UW board, but we're a smaller crowd. You also won't see many FAs there either. But we're all warm and fuzzy and happy. Here is nice, but I think it could be better, and that task shouldn't have to fall into the moderators' hands.

Climbing is as much about humanity as it is the mountain. I enjoy reading Matt's trip up Da Toof with his nephew, the epics by people having unplanned bivies on routes the hardmen are doing in a day, the alpine stoke that NOLSe mentioned... This thread is not just about me -- if it were, the easy fix would be simply "Ignore User" for probably about a dozen people. But the spray does have a chilling effect toward other people, and I don't know what the fix is for that. If it were my board, I would have become the "benevolent dictator" and banned certain people a long time ago. Yes there are other boards that are friendlier than here, but this board is unique in the amount of users and information that one can get.

ChucK, my comment was a direct followup to Oly's note that there have been a lot of CC.commers in the Bugs, many more than those who actually posted TRs. I pulled tangential discussion away to here, as I've learned that people may not like it when I go photogeek on their TRs. Oly, I'll give Ignore User a try.

CJ, I don't have record of that PM (probably too long ago), but I'm guessing I replied with something like, "Here's a little bit of info. I'm really busy now. I'll get back to you later," and then I forgot about it and I never heard back from you. Pretty much standard operating procedure.

CJ, I'll search for guidebook recs on CC.com before I contest your claim. But I see nothing wrong with asking for spoonfeeding. It probably takes a whiner more effort to complain to me than for the resident expert to give their opinions. Regarding me giving info, I'm more than happy to give it. I don't think I've ever refused to give info. It's very possible that if an info request was made in a thread (as opposed to a PM), then I simply never saw it. I'd be interested in seeing any evidence you dig up.

A few days ago, I asked about recommended guidebooks for other areas. The thread went to the toilet immediately. I had to post a second thread insisting on no BS to get answers. A few days ago, when I suggested that Newbies have better etiquette, Alpinfox responded to the effect of, "I don't care. This is my entertainment." From the Beckey-Chouinard thread: I think the reason more people (perhaps including the above people -- and I just remembered another two folks who were up in the Bugs in the past month) aren't posting reports here is because there are a bunch of hoodlums using this site as their anarchist's playground, ready to pounce on the scapegoat of the month when they're not distracted by spraying their inane juvenile dribble on the latest thread. This site has never been about rules, so what I'm asking is: 1) What's the consensus of everyone who posts here regarding spray, insults, hijacking, abuse of newbs, etc.? (Opinions of real people, not avatars.) 2) Will the "abusers" voluntarily control themselves if consensus dictates as such? I haven't posted trip reports / photos here in about a month partially because of my frustrations with certain posters on this site, and for now, I think I'll keep it that way.

There's a bunch more CC.commers who were up in the Bugs who haven't posted their adventures here. I can think of 8 off the top of my head.

I bet she eats just desserts too.

No. Half-sizes. The gray alien is halfway between yellow and red, and the gold is halfway between red and orange. The new offsets are yellow/gray and gray/red. I'm unsure about the exact specs though, as Mtntools says the yellow is .61-1.07 and the red is .75-1.33, but the gray is .78-1.12, which doesn't make sense.

This is "Newbies," which should have better etiquette than "General Discussion," which should have better etiquette than "Spray."

I bought a used Hummingbird? (light blue) +20-degree bag from yall about five years ago for $70 or $80 and it's still serving me well!

I can be there until 8:00 PM.

Thanks for all the helpful comments. I don't have a specific roadtrip planned per se (my last one was Da Bugs and my next one will probably be Hyalite), but it's always good to have some pornographic literature around. I'm surprised that the Tetons guide that everyone uses is like 10-15 years old and there hasn't been a newer one.