Gary_Yngve

Interesting discussion. First some comments on Index: -If you have a 60m rope and can get off Princely Ambitions or Godzilla without downclimbing, then your rope is longer than my rope. -I'm really happy that Sagg has anchors below the 11b roof because I'm selfish and I can't climb 11b roofs. Though we're focusing on bolts and anchors, rap slings are about as much as a big deal to me. On the WR of Prusik, there are ratnests on the ridge itself, and there are parallel stations on the north face descent too. Not to mention stuck cams. No one maintains the stations, and there may be the station for the 50m rap and the one for the 60m rap. Over on the Burgner-Stanley there's several chockstones/blocks that are slung. Forbidden east ledges is nice because the stations seem to be maintained. There's neither redundant stations nor ratnests. Now onto the Bugaboos, where chains have largely replaced slings. On the Kain Route, it's pretty clean, keeps the tat down, though depending on skill level, some of the raps can be downclimbed ropeless. The Kraus-McNarthy is a different story though. You need two ropes to descend, but it seems there are rap stations set up for 40m ropes, 50m ropes, and 60m ropes... all interleaved. Seemed a bit excessive. So is the problem really bolts or rap slings, or is it people? Too many people climbing routes that require leaving some amount of fixed gear behind? If so, then we're part of the problem, unless we're only climbing clean and doing walkoffs. I think we all agree that we want to mitigate the problem, but where to draw the line is hard to define. I don't think any of us wants grid-bolted cracks nor all-out bans on climbing (look at the impact of feet scrubbing off lichen over time, such as on Outer Space or WF NEWS). Sticking with tradition is one way to go, though that's not entirely consistent, and times are changing. I like the fact that I can rap down Dreamer instead of "walking off" via 3rd-class bushwhacking, but I'd be furious if Breakfast of Champions got bolted. As long as the climbing community communicates and doesn't polarize, I think we'll be ok.

http://www.cnn.com/2006/LAW/10/12/robber.retirement.ap/index.html

Thanks, but we're doing a WFA course on campus Sat-Sun during the daytime, and I have evening plans for Fri night and Sun night. Though RopeUp may partially explain why our WFA enrollment is lower than expected. I believe my two current roommates will be at Ropeup.

we're having a BBQ at the UW Rock today, 5-7 PM. you're welcome to stop by

What did Tommy wear for Nose + Freerider?

Thanks for the report. I love Glacier Peak.

Yes -- it's 28-105. Looks to be an awesome camera.

http://www.betterbridge.org/ has lots of details on a SR520 Pacific Interchange proposal. Dunno if it's the same one the newspaper is talking about.

I'm at the UW gym. I tried the chain yesterday, and it worked great. It doesn't shift around, and the strength difference needed to pull a move is noticeable. Thanks for the cautions about tendons. I've never pulled one, and I'd like to keep it that way, considering I rely on my fingers for typing, cello, and climbing.

It's usually cooler outside than in the gym. And if I don't go with a pack, I'm still carrying a rack. I don't want to take a trad rack to the gym to go climbing.

A pack can interfere with movement and results in a lot more sweaty nastiness.

I decided that I'm cheating myself by climbing in the gym with just shoes and harness, when in the mountains I also have helmet, rack, and possibly food/water/pack. I went to Big5 Sporting Goods to see if they had a weight belt available, but they just had ankle and wrist weights. So I went to the hardware store and bought three feet of half-inch steel chain (cost me $13 -- it was the cheapest option I could find). Not sure how heavy it is -- I'm guessing about 10 pounds. I'll weigh it sometime. I can clip the chain into a loop with a locker to make a secure belt for when I'm gymclimbing. I'll let yall know how it goes.

I thought the line up Outerspace was the punchline until some people got talked down.

Thanks for the cool TR!

SmallShoes, Iain caught me using "ad hominem" as a noun, whereas its original use was as an adjective. But thankfully English has been bastardized enough that it's acceptable to be used as a noun. This tangent happened in a TR, so I pulled it out here.

You're good at rhyming the rime.

Iain, http://www.answers.com/ad+hominem&r=67 "Ad hominem" can be used as a noun too (see halfway down the Usage section).

That's right, if you're ever getting flamed too hard and need a distraction to turn down the heat, drop me a PM! I'll assess how bad things are and give you my fee, usually in the range of 2-3 beers. I guarantee results or your beers back!

Hawkeye69, apparently you don't possess the third-grade reading comprehension to understand that I was criticizing the first poster for blaming his epic on other people. I did not blame my epic several years ago on anyone else, and I am not criticizing him getting in an epic. I am criticizing him for putting the blame, which should solely be his own, on others. You don't need to bother responding. I already know what you'll say.

Hawkeye69, first of all, I don't think you're a lurker. I think you're yet another avatar of some tool whom I've already ignored. It's up to you to prove me otherwise. Second, why the hell do you need to jump in on the "pick on gary" game? I'm sick and tired of it. Your attacks are tangential and unprovoked. It seems every time I decide to give this forum another chance, another jackass avatar has to step up to the plate to hassle me.

Wow, hawkeye69, in just your first four posts, you've managed quite a bit of vitriol, plenty of misspelled cusswords, and a subtle chestbeat of climbing the Salathe in a day. Congratulations, you'll fit in here just fine.

I didn't blame my epic there on anyone else. That's where the first poster of this thread has gone wrong. It's their own damn fault they didn't bring a headlamp, so they need to suck it up, take some responsibility for their actions, and not blame the slow people in front of them.

I'll chime in with some pictures:

Sounds like you were over your head and clueless on how to move fast on the descent, you mofo.

I climb the first 15-20 fee mostly on faceholds but stay in the corner. My first two pieces are blue and green aliens. There's really only one or two widish moves to end the climb. You're standing on a ledge where you can place a #4 friend, and then about 10 feet above the ledge to the left is a huge jug.