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Gary_Yngve

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Everything posted by Gary_Yngve

  1. quote: Originally posted by thelawgoddess: quote:Originally posted by chris_w: Somebody got hit in the head by a rock on the Carbon Glacier. Ouch! They said on the news that his helmet was shattered by the rock.
  2. quote: Originally posted by sk: Trask, I believe that would be negative style points, as it would detract from the otherwise pleasing display of skin and rock. I have a friend who does some modeling and did a series with a photographer. i have not seen the pics, but imagine they are quite beautiful www.stonenudes.com has calendars and posters of nude rock climbers of both genders
  3. quote: Originally posted by lizard brain: -a picket for running belays -a deadman to anchor your tent -a weapon -a backscratcher -a sex toy[/QB] It's also an active camming device... place it in the crack and then rub...
  4. Sweet! Too bad old, ugly Sieg Hall (where I work) isn't listed in there. I've been eyeing the broad north face of it lately... I've bouldered up to the second floor, going higher is basically repeating the same easy moves over again. (Stem between the two columns, lieback to gain the small overhang, mantle to the next window ledge.) If the windows are open and the window sills are padded, the route can be protected with slings around the columns. I'm still freaking out though about the possibility of the bacon showing up.
  5. I climbed Colchuck a few days ago and ran into two surprises along the way: Are these two bugs doing what I think they are doing? On the summit, there were thousands of ladybugs... you couldn't sit down without crushing one. They weren't anywhere else around -- just the summit. What's with that?
  6. Gary_Yngve

    tooth

    We were at The Tooth Saturday morning. We rolled into the parking lot a little after 7 AM and got to Pineapple Pass where we merged into the middle of a Mountaineers group (who had left the TH around 6 AM). No snow on any of the pitches. There's some snow on the short scramble between the first and second pitch. There's a cute moat in the notch at Pineapple Pass. No snowshoes necessary -- there are nice steps in the snow going all the way up. I had an axe and my partner had poles, and we were each fine. As long as you didn't use the rap trees as anchors while climbing, the climbing went pretty fast. But the the rapping went really slow. Back on the trail, we ran into a pair who had planned to climb The Tooth after the Mounties had left. We told them that they should be gone by then but added that Washington Alpine Club was also there, to which they responded, "Oh no, they're the worst!" All in all, it was a gorgeous day and got a chance to really soak up the views.
  7. Hi all, I'm a new guy here and I want to climb really cool mountains, so I'm taking this really cool course from the Mountaineers. They decided to replace the 10+ essentials with 20+ essentials, because the 10+ essentials are now obsolete with the changing world. Last lecture they outlined the additional essentials. and the reasons for them I don't think they are all necessary, but I was wondering what your opinions are: 11) GPS: The earth's magnetic pole is drifting, and we won't know how to adjust our declination. In fact, the pole may switch from North to South without us knowing! 12) Men/Women signs: So stragglers know which side of the trail to wander off during a party separation. Note: this item may be shared by the group. 13) Ice axe: You never know when you'll have to self-arrest or splint a leg. 14) Helmet: Masking tape with your name on it doesn't stick well on your forehead. 15) Blood pressure cuff. It is important to check the vital signs of a wounded person, such as one who has a sunburn. 16) Extra extra food. 17) Duct tape repair kit. How are you going to repair your duct tape when it breaks? 18) Mountaineer student pin. If you do not wear the pin in a visible location on your climb, you may not get credit for the summit. You may take off the pin only when sleeping or in a crevasse. 19) Really expensive watch with all sorts of fancy features. For maximum effectiveness on trail, it must be bought at REI. 20) Sherpa: To carry all the extra gear.
  8. My mom had a weird knee injury (not from sudden trauma but rather from extended squatting while working in the garden). It left her nearly unable to walk for months as she went through several doctors who had no idea what the hell it was and recommended surgery. She recovered on her own through stretching, exercise, and glucosamine. She's in her fifties now and her knee feels better than ever. I'm not sure if she still uses the gluc, but she still stretches and exercises regularly and did Granite Mountain in 3 hours last summer. This summer she wants to explore the Enchantments.
  9. This summer I did a 72-hour scrambling binge in the Cascades and on two parts of Rainier, from the time that I rented the car to the time I returned it. I was sleep-depped from the start from trying toget ahead on research. I drove about 500 miles,hiked about 50 miles, and had a vertical gain ofabout 15000 feet. I had no problems at all scrambling, but the driving was a royal bitch. It was like every twenty minutes I'd need to pull over andrun some laps around my car and do some pushups. This winter I ended up doing a snowshoe trip after being up for more than 24 hours and had no trouble -- I wasn't the driver.
  10. quote: Originally posted by Jens: Question: Is the Chimney glacier the closest real glacier to Seattle as a CROW flies? It has got be closer than the moutnain loop stuff.I'll be willing to bet yes. There is the Columbia Glacier above Blanca Lake between Monte Cristo, Columbia, and Kyes. It's 15-20 mi NE of Index.
  11. quote: Originally posted by klenke: Okay, here's the joke (irony) of the GAP clothing:No climber-type would shop at The Gap. The Gap's clothing is for wannabe outdoor enthusiasts...or sorority girls looking for just the right type of flashy gear to stand out on campus. Heh, I have never worn Gap until the other day. I found myself stuck in the lab at night during that snowstorm, and I wanted to go outside and peg some frat boys with snowballs, build some snow cocks, standard stuff... I didn't have a jacket, hat, or gloves at the time, so I took a Gap bag I found lying around and poked one of the corners into the other for the instant hat/hood. Kept me quite cozy.
  12. Gary_Yngve

    Tricks

    One of the instructors at the Basic field trip on Sunday had his nut tool attached to his harness by a telephone cord.
  13. It pains me to see so much Mountaineer bashing even though most of it is in jest. Anyway, I was at Spire Rock on Sunday as a Basic student. I finished the requirements for the field trip in roughly half the time and spent the rest of the time being a belay slave and taking an occasional route up the rock. Here is what I remember from early afternoon: There were a ton of little kids around the friction slabs. There was a little kid who ran under the Prusik tower as we were taking it apart; luckily wewere able to haul him away before metal pipescame crashing down. There was a father-son duodoing a roof route on the SW corner. Later onthey moved onto the southern stem/chimney route.We had a rope on the crack route on the north face,but we weren't using it much -- the easier routeswere on the south. Boulderers were tearing traverses all over the rock -- there were a fair amount of downtime between pitches -- beginners are slow at tying in. Anyway, I've been warned by several Mountaineers to beware for some instructors who are anal and obnoxiously power-trippy. I have yet to find any, and I have yet to meet a Mountaineerwho has pissed me off. Mayabe I'm just lucky or I'm laid back enough. I know in the past on here I've read about other climbers who have encountered Mounties who were asses. One thing you can certainly do is call the Mountaineers and complain about their behavior. A member of the Mountaineers should not be acting like an ass, and he may need a little reminder of his behavior.
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