fern

I have two questions: 1) why did you choose to belay off your harness rather than use the Reverso in 'plate' mode and belay directly off the anchor? 2) were you pulling in the slack from your side of the directional or from the climber's side?

I looked to see if there was a topic like this last year. so as to pester and heckle people whether they met their goals ... alas, only spray

I don't know if the same system is used in WA, but FWIW the Canadian Avalanche Danger Descriptors (1998) describes Considerable thus: Probability and Trigger: Natural avalanches possible. Human triggered avalanches probable. Recommended Action: Be increasingly cautious in steeper terrain.

when you reach your 16th year of climbing and are about to throw away all your cams let me know.

this past spring I climbed mainly in a pair of rock shoes that pinched my big toes to the point they were fairly numb at the end of the day. Then in the summer I climbed some high cold mountains in plastic boots and I found the first part of my foot to get painfully cold was the same part of the big toe affected by the rock shoes. I do not think it was coincidence.

I have some AT boots I want to get rid of. Nordica TR9s. I think they are mondopoint 26.5, probably about Euro sz 39.

I think the freezing level was way high. Cypress only got 10 in the last 24

I think it's more likely she has a season's pass or discount ski card of some variety. you are all funny and cracking me up. this is the most fun thread in a while. chest-beat some more ... come on ... don't stop now!!

60 climbing holds and many band-aids ... woo.

something about giving poor people boxes in years gone by ... but now it is about getting the day off work and buying heavily discounted cd players and skis . biggest sale day of the year.

snoboy speaks of self-vulcanizing rubber tape. This stuff is pretty cool and gives good 'grip', probably better than tool-dip. It doesn't like the UV much though.

I got 61 climbing holds this year ... is that good or bad ? ... I guess I'll have to start climbing indoors.

I drove the full Hwy1/Hwy99 loop today. fun way to put 750km on my truck. Climbed a bit at Marble Canyon. IMO everything to the right of Waite for Spring is not in safe shape yet. VERY thin and wet. Not much ice worth putting a scroo in. Middle and upper tiers spewing. No Deductible hasn't been farmed. The 'new' lines are between NoD and Deeping Wall and right of Waite for Spring. Fraser Canyon south of Lytton no ice no surprise. Honeyman Falls no. Seton weeps dry. Synchronicity approach gully dry, first pitch mostly dry, upper pitches looked continuous but barely any ice. Loose lady similar. Carl's Berg looked wet but starting to come in.Duffey Lake road is not well ploughed yet.

this part of the Grand Wall is prone to spontaneous rockfall from time to time. I dunno on what authority people say there's never been a 2nd ascent, the 1968 guide reads a bit like somebody else went up there. But I don't marinate myself in climbing history as much as others (Dru) so ....

you want your subscription money reimbursed or something? why don't you start a poll and everyone can vote whether or not your completely pointless avatar gets reinstated - all democratic like.

Phair Creek is better and has many unclimbed lines. It has enough routes for everyone at the Icefest to climb. There is no need for anyone to go to LOCATION DELETED BY THE CANADIAN INTERNET BETA POLICE Creek . In fact that place is highly unsafe.

working through a hypothetical like this can be a fun thought experiment. maybe though it is worth also considering what conspiracy of events would get you into such a predicament and thinking if there is some simple proactive solution that would have avoided it. For example, if you had chosen to climb on double ropes then more self-rescue options are available.

If I had climbed up there in the first place, then I would fix the rope and downclimb with at least 2 prussiks as a backup, downaiding off the gear if that would help speed it up. I would try to never haul an unconcious person without going down to check them out first, good way to kill them.

just wait. the whole sequence will show up in some teenagers' homemade Jackass movie soon enough.

IMO Arc'Teryx stuff is not as durable as you might wish for given the price tag. Perhaps you get the endless warranty return deal to make up for it though? Some of those TNF jackets look really heavy and burly. Also I've seen Helly Hansen stuff that looked abusable. Durability has more to do with the face fabric than the membrane alchemy no?

the flip side of this is when you are slogging a mostly flat skin track. If you get a slight downhill section you can turn them on edge and zoom, rather than have to skin downhill.

Post deleted by Courtenay

perhaps this scientific study will help you.

I know I saw this on vinyl back when I did college radio ... I bet it belonged to nardwuar

I think their (Anasazi) beliefs about anything are a mystery because they disappeared several centuries before european contact and they had no written language. Completely off topic, but in the Yukon the pre-European people have passed down some pretty unusual beliefs about glacier travel. For example you shouldn't fry bacon on a glacier or else you might get eaten by a crevasse or cause a surge.