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fern

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Everything posted by fern

  1. I'd like to have some fun in the sunshine. Rock-climbing or skiing or any adventure that can fit reasonably within one day
  2. if you aren't going to fall why carry them at all?
  3. thread the picket upward through a gear loop and clip the top hole off so it doesn't drop back down. If you nest them right you can get 3 through one loop.
  4. I found a bug in the photo gallery. If you browse the "Members Galleries", and click a name to see all of one persons pictures you get a "user no longer in database" error message
  5. anybody want to climb with me in the cold and wind? if not maybe I'll go man the picket-line and collect some strike pay
  6. you should check out Courtenay's www.bodyresults.com page. There are tons of ideas there for training routines. here's some more http://www.climbingwalls.net/performance_training.html http://www.climbingwalls.net/endurance_training.htm http://www.8a.nu/eng/articles/contacttime2.shtml
  7. how much variation in ankle flex can you get by changing how tight/how many eyelets you lace? Sometimes you can make a stiff boot less restrictive by lacing right, but you can never make a flexy boot more supportive. I'd go for the one with the one piece tongue, since wearing gaiters bugs.
  8. horne lake?
  9. Ray Jardine had an interesting method back when he was freeing those hard cracks. He practiced laybacking as a safety or rest technique. His reasoning was that laybacking and jamming require different sets of muscles, so if his laybacking was wicked strong he could swing out of a technical jam crack into the layback to cop a rest ... maybe not a global rest, but at least ease the pressure on the bizness muscles he needed to get up the climb. Of course this will not work on the 99% of climbs in the world that are overhanging clip-ups
  10. I KNOW I KNOW!! Yellow Bird
  11. I think your three issues are related jk, and the key one is the footwork. Like, fix the footwork and your climbing will be less effortful (hah new word ) and so you won't tax your endurance so you can hang on longer while you figure out the right sequence and SEND!! What Muffy says about the best foothold in the best way is right except not the whole story. Because what is the 'best' foothold? It's not always the biggest or most obvious one, but it's the one that's in the right place relative to all the other holds you are using. Sometimes it helps me to think that the role of my arms is to stabilize me while my feet push my centre of gravity around. Also looking focusedly (hah another new word ) on my foot while putting weight on it. These are my secrets to cracking the 5.6 barrier.
  12. ????
  13. my favourite colour: "on sale"
  14. but what climb did Hutton THINK he was actually on? my guess #2 is Tunnel Vision ... but no idea. Who is that in the ugly sweater anyways
  15. yes but 50lbs of carrots = $5 so you never have to starve or buy flashlight batteries
  16. "Why is this thread so wide." I think it's erik's fault with the exclamation marks. I always get the hinky wide formatting.
  17. fern

    No Trip TR

    iain you crack my shit up. fine form today
  18. fern

    Lady in need

    you know what graemlins are still missing are the little thumbs up and thumbs down ones. They were really handy.
  19. fern

    Girl Stuff

    the only way to gauge the success of having a female-oriented forum in encouraging more women to post to the board is to actually DO it. Doesn't really matter if the ~10 women who already post to the forums use it or not, we're already here. I don't care either way, if it's boring I won't read it and if it's interesting I will, same as the rest of the board. I don't have any 'girly' issues I need to talk about on the internet anyways.
  20. fern

    Girl Stuff

    forget it noone cares
  21. I read all the above but I don't really get what the question is?? Ice forms when water is cooled below the freezing point ... that's why. Do you mean why do ice-climbs form? Generally there are two types of water ice climbs: waterfalls, and seeps. Waterfall and gully lines are pretty obvious in the unfrozen season, there is water running down a steep drainage. Seeps may only appear when they freeze because they don't require a really obvious drainage system. You get seeps for example where there is a perched water table or a spring on a cliff, or a crack that oozes water. Even pretty low volume flows can build thick ice, sometimes thicker than a waterfall with a larger water supply because the water velocity is lower so there is less kinetic energy and friction in the system. Maybe Oregon doesn't get this stuff so much because the drainage is good and the water just runs away underground? Or the air is dry enough that seeping moisture is evaporated at an equal rate to the supply so it never builds to freeze? I dunno, like I say I don't really understand the question and I don't know the areas that have been mentioned.
  22. USHBAs have a bit of wasted movement because they turn 90degrees to cam, hard to explain and NBD really. Petzls too big for my little girly hands . I like yoomars.
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