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fern

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Everything posted by fern

  1. you go up and then down and then back up. Maybe someone could build a via ferrata to link HPD to Angel's Crest and the top?
  2. My Monday lunch hour: Listened to Janez moan about his gobies from High Plains Drifter.
  3. creepy woman surgically altered to look like a cat
  4. cyclical loading of carabiners: http://www.mit.edu/afs/athena/course/16/16.62x/www/Graham_Jon_622.pdf page 18 has a summary chart
  5. i hope someone brings a stereo! I'll bring the music:
  6. The part of the plastic heel clip that seats in the boot groove broke off. We were going to use a hose clamp around the release plate spring housing to tighten the cable forward directly into the boot groove. we didn't lose too much elevation because we cut hard right right from the bottom of that gully and contoured around.
  7. I have a hard time believing that in the 40 odd years since the first routes were done on the Apron that there is a single sqft of sub 5.11 rock anywhere on it that has not yet been climbed by someone running it out (consider that the hardest pitch in Squamish in the 1967 guide is a .10d pitch on the Apron, then rated 5.9). Which in my opinion makes these new generation routes at best unnecessary and at worst retro-bolted squeeze jobs.
  8. that was Isabel that turned around at Decker. Snoboy and I turned back at the Ripsaw after sitting around in the clouds. Then a graceless turn resulted in a busted binding and a ski in a crevasse and so on and so on . We got back to the village in time to watch the last 4 huckers at the big air contest at Whistler though. Rip It Up LOL!!! If anybody knows Dave P. from Kenmore WA and other Dave and Rick tell them thanks for the spare binding part, I will buy them a pitcher if I ever see them again. I would have liked to do the Neve too ... but I wrekked up my neck in the busted binding piledriver incident.
  9. fern

    what is this?

    the Rapture?
  10. Dreamer isn't really a slab climb - it's got lots of holds with all those chickenheads
  11. Plus ca change....
  12. fern

    burning stuff

    it sure is a strange question. It can often take a very hot fire to burn items not intended for burning. I have had experience with this in cleaning up an alpine research station where we had a propane fueled asphalt torch that still would take hours to completely reduce some synthetic items to ash. I suspect using a regular campfire pit or fireplace would result in an unrewarding experience if you cannot achieve a hot enough burn. If it was my burden to dispose of some personal items in a permanent way with some measure of ceremony (I don't know if this is your situation) I would probably encase them in cement and drop them in the ocean from a boat.
  13. we were following a college group of 12, so many tracks were not ours. Mine could be distinguished by the lack of craters the low route I guess. We just followed the majority of tracks down through the crevasses skiers' right of the Sharkfin. have fun in YT.
  14. fern

    quickdraws

    if you search around you can sometimes find pre-made QD units for the same or lower price than buying the same 'biners individually. The short sewn sling is just a bonus that you can use or not use to taste.
  15. so, what's the proper training regime then? lots of sprot climbing? lots of boldering? climb indoors? seriously but hypothetically for someone typical who works fulltime and only has weekends + 8 free weekday hrs to train, but is as you say reasonably fit, what training regime would get them to be a 5.12 climber in a year? (and I know about Performance Rock Climbing and the various Eric Horst books, I am curious though if the crazy polish method is different.) in my sphere of acquaintance I can think of only 1 or 2 people who went from non-climber to 5.12world within 2 years but that was with a lot of unemployment and fulltime climbing. I am sure there are other examples out there though.
  16. I have heard that after a while the aluminum stays may wear through the fabric/seams and bust out the bottom. However, the person who told me this mentioned it as a reason for why they were buying their 2nd IceFall pack, so I guess in other aspects of functionality and durability and value they were satisfied enough to be a repeat customer. I think you might want to contact salbrecher who posts here as he is as tall (taller?) than you and might have specific info for a tall person.
  17. fern

    do you care?

    uh oh! you are wearing the red shirt arlen! oh well, it was nice knowing you, have a nice trip to Stovokor
  18. team wank are going to be so when the new guide comes out and Pleasant Pheasant is downrated to .10d . Not even leading sport 11s blah blah blah. wankers
  19. thanks for the TR! you're not supposed to tell people about the #1 camalot sized crack at the top of Exasperator - you'll blow their onsight!
  20. maybe that no crowds British Columbia place is the Leaning Towers ?
  21. fern

    Tax Day !!

    so I noticed also that there has been an upswing in people selling their junk in Yard Sale and other places to pay the tax man ... it is usual that people end up owing rather than getting a return? are you all self employed or something?
  22. no ... from bellygood you hike across the top of tantalus wall, down some short slabs and into the forest above the staircase on the backside trail.
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