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fern

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Everything posted by fern

  1. NOLSe
  2. fern

    Peeve thread

    it's a recent thing. Just since this spring. Sucks ... I liked peanut butter.
  3. wow JayB, with all that logic and stuff you kinda remind me of this sexy guy: if I recall you kinda look like him too better picture less work safe
  4. how about: 1. meet guy climbing 2. give guy your digits 3. guys contacts you to ask for digits of female friend you were climbing with - "would have asked at the time but it would have been awkward".
  5. chicks dig scars. maybe you should go maim yourself
  6. the one Dru mentions is the one that first comes to mind for me. It's called Variation 4 if anyone cares. It's like 5.8/5.9 for a shorty and whipper city for anyone tall. Kangaroo Corner in the Smoke Bluffs might be easier for shorter people because you can lean into the corner if your legs aren't all in the way. In weird tight spots it can be helpful to be small - the Butt Lips chimney for example, or another route in Squamish called Fungus the Bogeyman. I wouldn't think that any of those example are WAY easier though. In general I don't think height issues matter that much for most outdoor climbing. There are other factors that are much more influential to your climbing successes.
  7. I took a 'learn to lead' type course through a local climbing club a few years ago and a couple of girls quit the course because there weren't any cute single guys taking it - it was like 8:2(married) female heavy. It's fun to diss the courses, but maybe some of you lonely boys should pretend you don't already know it all and sign up
  8. Designated National Reserve. what is the significance of this designation? is it illegal to place bolts/establish trails in a DNR?
  9. and is this supposed to be a less egotistical and chestbeating way to "rate" your climbs?
  10. someone owes an overdue fine then. I was there yesterday, the library was empty. I forgot how fun that Outer Space route is!
  11. it's been a long time since we had good spray about ropegun hookers and fat chicks.
  12. I will be up there Saturday anyways. I already have a partner but don't mind orphans tagging along if it is actually dry enough to climb - as long as they are not gaper slowpokes . SmokeBluffaneering only. I will ropegun in return for cheese sandwiches.
  13. requote ... because I can beeyotch! shitty picture avalanche!!!!! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
  14. man boobs at 8 o'clock
  15. fern

    Photo Caption?

    that's MAJOR Wolanski to you! note the guy chillaxin' over his left shoulder? Two words: Blue Blockers
  16. and again ... if you find old slings that look suspect and want to add a "backup" - then do your fellow climbers and s a favour and cut the old shit out. In the Bugaboos supposedly they have found that pikas scavenge rap sling material to make their nests. In the winter time the nest itself is a food source for the pkas. Not much nutritional benefit to nylon. Do your part to reduce the amount of garbage that is harmful to the wee critters ... and unsightly messes yadda yadda
  17. The sole cracked on mine, right across the green bit at the toe. Anybody else have this problem? I am going to W/R them to the co-op once I find the stupid receipt ... I'm concerned the sole might start peeling off.
  18. so does anybody know anything about those direct bolts I described on P3 and P4? Is that in the yellow-spined 2001 updated Squamish guide? Also it looks like someone has done a very recent scrub to Freedom Fighter and Insurrection - probably Robin Barley again.
  19. also if you don't trust the slings and want to add a new one of your own that you do trust then cut out all the other junky ones. If they're no longer trustworthy then they're just garbage that needs to be cleaned up so do your part.
  20. maybe you are actually thinking of The Great Game Layton? I have heard from others that TGG is a better route.
  21. yes and the route should be "Area Neglected and/or Abandoned by Non-Specific Higher Power and/or Deity" I got a good look at Right Wing there Mer - it's all dry and actually not that dirty in the upper sections - you should get on it with your scrubby brush
  22. Climb: Squamish - The Squaw-Godforsaken Land Date of Climb: 5/15/2004 Trip Report: Just some corrections/modifications/additions to the route description in the McLane (1999) guide. Pitch 1: The guide gives a different rating in the text and on the topo, the topo is the more correct one IMO . Pitch 2: As is typical for a Robin Barley route you may find the climbing easier if you don't directly follow the bolt(s). Pitch 3: The text mentions 6 points of aid. There are only 3. A direct variation continues up the arete above where GFSL hand traverses into the corner crack (not described in my guide). Pitch 4: A direct 2 bolt variation straight up from the belay (not described in my guide) is A LOT harder than the standard route that traverses left to a diagonal crack. The upper part of this pitch is quite filthy. Pitch 5: w00t !! It's dumb to argue with star ratings but whatever, I wouldn't agree that this is a *** route, except for maybe the top short pitch. Certainly it is not going very high on my repeat list - though a good scrub would improve it. It was good practice for transitioning from aid to free climbing. Pitches 1+2 are somewhat similar to Life On Earth (Mt. Habrich) style climbing if anyone is curious what that route is like. Gear Notes: All the belays are bolted for rappel (some with just washers and chains though) - probably need 2 ropes to rap though. The middle pitches are fairly long, a few extra slings would be handy. Also yellow metolius sized gear was deployed often. We used real aid etriers and I had an adjustable fifi - I think this helped make the bolt ladders not completely exhausting as they were very reachy for me (5'2") - although the dudes storming up behind us did fine with just regular slings. Approach Notes: heinous
  23. fern

    Best time to bail?

    only a foot long each? ... that's a pretty small squid innit?
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