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genepires

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Everything posted by genepires

  1. the dawg agrees! (yeah it is out of context)
  2. Way to flip flop of the topic. First one offers "leaving ZERO impact" and the second shows how you leave lots of impact. This is not just the regret of a past but you still do it. Hypocritical. You bury your poop under rocks! Get wag bags, carry your feces home and put it into the dumpster please. Bury it in good soil where it will degrade biologically. Leaving feces under rocks contaminates the drinking water for a long time. Common "Leave No Trace" principals here. how did this discussion get from cutting a small dead stump to shit? It always comes back to shitting.
  3. apology excepted. now go climb some hard shite that I can barely even dream of. @ Julian regarding the gi gi. I have one and the instructions that came with it showed how to use it to belay a leader, much like a stitch plate. The reason people are using it as if it was a tubular device is because it was designed to be used that way. Now I am not agreeing that it is a good idea as I had a horrible time using it for belaying a leader. The rope did not slide through the device very easy but that may have been a rope diameter or user error problem. Why are you thinking that the gigi is not designed to be used as a belay device for a leader?
  4. well shiete, you should make a program for cc.com wankers! You could be our resident physical trainer as Dane is our resident ice gear guru. How about a article about general programing for alpinist hardpeople wanna-be's? maybe something like a x-fit WOD geared towards alpinists.
  5. way to get all gnar on me Marc. I guess I have to be more specific with my statements but I figured that some things should be obvious. I suppose they are not. The discussion was about ice climbing (in the ice climbing forum...go figure) and morphed into mixed climbing. You are bringing it to rock climbing. My statements applied to the idea of climbing mixed ground with ice tools and crampons. I think we can agree that falling with these implements flying around while bouncing off small ledges and such is a bad idea. Now say you are sorry about the "bullshit" comment.
  6. Hey John, I heard that the upper half of the route (after the ice gulley) is not usually done in the late spring and early summer due to the sloppy snow and avi conditions. Do you think that the snow is better in the late winter making a full ascent more likely? (given a good weather window)
  7. that is not ice climbing so the "don't fall" rule does not apply. Now if the rock was less than vertical, like alpine climbing, the rule would apply.
  8. bad fall but good video editing.
  9. nice job. that traverse photo is sweet. as are the rest.
  10. a broken ankle is not a low impact thing either. If it comes down to a dead stump or another broken ankle, the stump loses. Cutting out a stump is not denuding vegetation. Once again, the dawg takes things over the top or doesn't take the time to understand the situation before a knee jerk reaction arises. If the dawg is right 99% of the time, then this might be that 1%, but I doubt it.
  11. What is the reason for the tickets/towing? Is it something that is only during the ski season? It seems like they would not have the authority to be able to do this as it is public land. They definitely wouldn't do that to the RV parked there.
  12. not everything has to relate to climbing. My training goals are based on many things, nothing related to outdoor recreation. Will my training hinder my climbing? Probably, but that is OK as long as I reach goals I have laid out for myself. My days of sending hard (by modern standards) are long gone. Like I was never there to begin with anyway. You are right about the pullups and climbing related performance.
  13. genepires

    trip advice

    OMG you shouldn't even be within sight of a mountain unless you can hump 120 pounds of crap in the pack at 1000ft vert per 10 minutes while smoking unfiltered fags. (cigarettes for the PC squeemish) No really, what the small rodent said is good. And to that good personal maintenance skills (sun protection, Body temp control, excellent hydration and food intake, keeping the pack weight under control and being very mindful of the weather/subjective/objective hazards and conditions{not in order of importance}) you should be fine. Use your brain even more so when you are tired. Keep aware of where you are for the return trip. Learn and use a map/compass. (backtrack gps unit?) think, be present and enjoy. When times get hard, your body can do more than you think it can. Use your time this spring to train, read and learn.
  14. After the first or second incident, why in the hell did you keep going there? Dead spiders and maggots is a sign to stay away. I think a little bit of dinner just came up.
  15. If you can get a butt ass early, zero dark 30 start, there is a 60 foot steep snow wall at stevens pass ski area parking lot. (created by snow clearing machines) The thing is very steep and is probably 70 to 80 degrees. You would need to be there after a clear cold night and be done before the sun really hits it. From sun rise, you might be get 3 or 4 hours of use out that snow feature. You could use trees above for a TR anchor. It is on the northside parking lot, west end, where the buses unload people so there are no parked cars around. go grab some buddies who has a car, a rope, gear and swing those tools into some frozen steep ice/snow.
  16. NBC is a good route especially early season. Can get tricky in late may when it melts out somewhat. It gets sun early in the morning so have a cold or overcast day. Near the top of the initial gulley, there is a another gulley heading off left and up. Don't take that but head straight up to the saddle and onto the west face to teh summit. Be avi aware.
  17. drove by today. Was covered with a dusting of snow in the morning. Looked all dry by the afternoon. No clue as to the actual dryness of rock.
  18. maybe a tank tread attachment for slab work. or at least something like a stealth rubber snowshoe thing. Wasn't hugh herr (spelling?) the man with 2 missing legs did all kinds of hard hard climbs. (like free city park) I think he was a prosthetic maker also. He was raised in new england but I don't know where he lives currently.
  19. are both pictures before the crevasse photo (2nd and 3rd photo) on the portage lake? Guessing the 2nd photo of lake and 3rd photo is glacier. nice photos
  20. thanks. it is what it is no matter what we want.
  21. Not sure if my tone went across right but I was a little bit serious. A little public competitiveness to help keep motivation towards a goal is not such a bad thing. No prize, no glory, just getting improvement. I have seen similar things on other fitness forums that seem to work. Usually working for some ungodly deadlift weight. Since you asked, I can force my fat ass about 10 to 12 times on rock rings. Less for straight bar. Did 9 on a towel draped over a bar. My goal is to be able to do 5 sets of 20 with 90sec rest between. I got a ways to go.
  22. All the lead is in my fat ass. a perfect excuse to not lead the scary stuff.
  23. If I was smart enough to use thang dang nabbit nancy electronic gizmo, I would be smart enough not to speed through the towns.
  24. luv u 2. been too long.
  25. is this a pull up contest now? that would be fun and maybe more worthwhile than focusing on losing weight.
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