genepires

maybe someone can make it spicy by throwing a ladder over that big crack. then we can get all everest style points.

From what I heard, there is a walk around that monster crack but it puts you under some hanging ice fall in the moustache area. Like 10 minutes in the possible firing line. Let the buyer beware if they choose that way.

Minus the cancer, it would be nice. but couldn’t one find a parking garage in downtown Seattle for like $20/day and van life it there?

that is so f'in nuts. $140/night. for 3 months rent, you could buy a nice van and live down by the river.

maybe you can knit a big net to catch all those falling slabs.

bellingham. damn I love me some bellingham. you can find careers there. Educational clubs courses? they have a bellingham mountaiineers club. for solid internet remote location crew, there are lots of them in mazama. damn fine place that mazama. What about requirement for winter skiing/boarding? that could make the choice easier.

you are right about individual risk but the chance of Someone getting the chop does go up would be interesting to see registration number for amount of people climbing lib ridge. I thought that the amount of people was essentially the same for the last 30 years considering it is a 50 classic.

The point Bob is making is to spend less time in the hazardous area. Spend 10 minutes or 8 hours under crumbling mud pile or under hanging icefall? All about minimizing risk, not eliminate risk.

I had heard of some big ice fall activity on the Buttes. ice fall crossing over the uptrack. Your last photo looks like ice fall that stayed near the cliff itself. Did you see any other big icefall?

Tvash and partner had a rock fall into their tent at that camp spot too but they were climbing it kinda late in season.

as I remember there are some running creeks nearby. How nearby depends on time of year and where you camp but still reasonable. I would purify it by some means. tablets purification fine if you don't want to haul up extra fuel or filter. plenty of people walking around the basin and someone must have pooped under a rock or two or 2000. I don't think they can keep day use out of the hut. Most people don't want to hike down and back up from applebee so it is not really a problem that must have been addressed. don't know about charging but I doubt anyone can stop you from using a unused charger outlet. the trail will be improved from your last time in there. I think the hut has some renovation since your last time also. A big avi smacked it around some time in the 90's.

hey Alpine dads, anyone interested in a one day craggin trip somewhere between and including exit whatever up to squish or l'worth? or alpine rock up at the wa pass? looking to keep it below the 5.10's whatever day is fine this memorial day weekend

you will not want the overboots. that is a specific condition item, like butt ass cold and requires crampons. I doubt that you will be or want to be in crampons for the whole day. I doubt your guide will allow you to use them. I had super gaiters and snow will sneak in around the rubber rand and you r boots will get wet anyways. I have guided in cascades for 8 years and very familiar with slogging up volcanoes around here. You will be glad to bring double plastic boots over leather. Leather boots are fine mid july and on. You can get by with leather boots (history has shown that old timers climbed plenty of bad ass shit with loafers) but you will be much happier with something that you can remove the liner and dry out daily.

I wonder how many people have been down to moraine lake? cool looking trip.

my bet is something on Mt Baring is the next to go. or something on the black buttes/colfax/Lincoln area.

is UW rock still standing or did it get crushed for the new highway?

cray cray https://globalnews.ca/video/5273224/landslide-at-joffre-peak-no-injuries-or-fatalities-reported/?fbclid=IwAR0jQ9WmgT0ht1tY2kdxhDy72ALeZ-wSjOvnMDyG83ei1eknmZkLg_l16dM

don't know if you did it already but maybe try turns all year site. I am assuming it fell off a skiers pack.

yes about the icicle. just looking for a mid way place between indoors and granite. I always felt the exits as a outside gym place. Much like face climbing at the feathers. we should get out this year.

thanks Rad! hopefully we can graduate to more pleasant granite routes.

I got Kurt's book. Was thinking about sun vista and headlight among others but just curious about the walk to the top. I think my boy likes to climb without a lot of crowds around. Yes the exits are not the place for solitude.

I looked at gritscone and I don't think it is very kid friendly. Hell, it doesn't look adult friendly either. thanks though.

Time for my young prodigy to graduate from indoor rock gym to real rock. Looking at the guidebook for exit 38 shows lots of routes that would be a good transition from indoor gym to outdoor gym-like environs. Would like to start on 5.6's and work upwards for him. Found lots of places on the north side of exit 38. Chances are that it would be just him and me so obviously I need to walk around to setup a TR. He is only 80 some odd pounds and I don't want to poison his life with a "dropped his dad and killed him situation". any good easy crags with easy walk around for TR setups? Hopefully the holds are not too exit 38 wierd like at we did it rock. thanks folks!

the few times I used leather climbing boots for splitboarding, I got pretty annoying pain on the calf muscle. the highbakcs are higher that the boot and would dig in on heal side turns. Did you find a really low highback (a lowback?) to not have this problem? I didn't know that they could be found that low. I shoved a small patch of foam from a ground pad back there but did not really that great.

why bring anything at all? most times you can just do them by walking in. the two routes listed has a standard bootpack going in to lake which is a pain to ski anyway, often in in late winter. I have seen alot of people packing skiis up to the lake. so for colchuck and dragontail, you would have 30 minutes of useful snow slide time before getting on route. The reality is that the snow is so deep that you need floatation, you really need to reconsider the route choice due to avi concerns. chair and baker often have bootpacks approaches also. Being able to walk on the approach without flotation is a good sign that the actual climbing route is in good condition. Things usually get more difficult the higher you go. If you are wallowing down low, expect more wallowing up high. steep wallowing is a good way to die.