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Rainman

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  1. Brandon, Now I know why it was hard to go climbing with you. I'm looking forward to getting my copy. Can I order one from you or do I have to go through the retail stores? Chris G.
  2. Good news indeed! Fixed anchors,as we know, are a necessity for most climbs. I like the idea of keeping them to a minimum , but each climb can be judged accordingly. Just remember, no machines! Hand drill only and have fun!
  3. Yeah, I knew him. He was a regular at Vertical World, Seattle. One of the nicest guys you'd meet there. Always had a smile and really loved climbers getting after it. I never climbed with him outside of the gym but I heard he was solid and a good partner to have. He will be sorely missed. RIP Bob
  4. Wow! Well done article! How timely to be reminded of the danger that lurks after a heavy snowfall. Everybody be safe out there!
  5. So I guess I'll chime in as well, since it is my favorite topic. 5.4 or less - South face Chrome dome (almost 4,000 ft of class 4 and easy 5th on super clean, polished stone). 5.7 or less - "Under The Boardwalk" (always fun!) 5.8 - "Till broad daylight" P1 ; "Excalibur" P1 (both have good athletic moves for the grade). 5.9 - the "Blue Crack" on Dreamer P6; the flake pitch on "Excalibur" P6 ( super fun on fantastic stone) 5.10a - "Waterfall Buttress" P5 (Nice clean finger crack on a flat face in an amazing location) 5.10b - "The Holy Grail" P5 ( In my opinion the best pitch in Darrington, bar none) 5.10c - "Centerstage" P1 (Credit card edges don't get any better) 5.10d - Excalibur" P8 (Fantastic crack and face moves on the cleanest rock in D-Town) 5.11A or harder - "Centerstage" P5 "Schitzophrenic" P7 (Very tenuous moves on superb rock way up in the air. It doesn't get much better than this)
  6. Be careful out here! Not all columnar basalt is worth climbing on. It can be extremly unstable with out telltale signs. I did some exploring with Jeff Thomas back in the eighties on some baslat columns that wobbled the entire length while climbing. Very, very scary it could have gone at any time with deadly consequences. An FA isn't worth much if no one else will do it because it's too dangerous. Think about it. Look more for good rock than obscure FA's.
  7. Nice job you guys! Can't wait to get on it. Keep putting up routes like this and the stoke will keep coming. Darrington Rocks!!!!
  8. Man, wish I could have been there. What a place to watch shooting stars!
  9. A runout is when you are sure you might fall, and the fall could be bad, but your a long way from the car so a fall is not an option, so you just suck it up and dont't fall, just like you used to when you were younger, before you knew you won't live forever because some of your friends have died doing what they love, but you'll remember it as a runout and you probably won't do this route again!
  10. It's good somebody isn't selfish like the rest of us that just went climbing on Saturday. Good job Matt, Mark & Danny. I'm glad the DEA is still working. I was ready to give a hand on Sunday but you guys did it all and nothing was left. Darn, missed the work party again. Oh well, the road and trails are ready for business. Let the climbing begin!
  11. I hear you Ben. The Page is another stellar and challenging climb, equally as good as any other on the wall. My hat's off to the FA boys. They figured it out and produced a beauty. I love its position on the wall. Nice job Brandon! The Illusion Wall just keeps cranking these babies out. If you've not sampled the goods up there yet, you ought to check it out. These are all modern mixed sport/trad routes with good gear on impeccable stone. Think of it as Washington's answer to Red Rocks, NV and you'll know what I mean. So the season is here! Grab the next good sunny day and go get some.
  12. That's the crag! The crag is on DNR land with an easement for the PUD powerlines. You have to cross leased land by the orchard owner. He's ok with climbing there, just be descrete and don't walk in the orchard in crossing over to the crag and don't park in his driverway!
  13. So I'm a little surprised about the responses regarding Rocky Reach. As one of the developers I think it's a really nice crag with a lot to offer. It is not as big as Vantage nor is it the best crag you've ever been to. But I think it is a nice alternative to other areas on the east side. There are currently 17 estabilshed, mixed trad and sport routes, from 5.7 to 5.12, all on good rock with easy access. Please park in Lincoln Head State Park (fee or Discovery pass required) and walk across the highway to access the crag.(approx. 15 min.) Please respect the orchard and don't walk through it. There is no guide at present but the routes are easy to see. Pick one that looks good and go for it. A liitle adventure always makes it more fun! Keep in mind that not too many people know about this so if your the only party there don't worry about it. Enjoy!
  14. After climbing here for over 30 years I'm always amazed that more people don't climb here. Not that I'm complaining. You gotta love it!
  15. Einar, Thanks for posting your pictures. I especially liked the shot of everyone getting ready to go at the base. Gentleman, start your engines! Way cool.
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