genepires

I luv to climb with you dan. You can carry the heavy soaking wet rope on way down. But of course if you get to pull the rope out before the tent is put up, then it is a win in the slacker game.! I have seen many people get so much stuff and their pack is fine till they get to the office and realize how heavy the group gear and food and water is. Then we had to go through their stuff to lighten the load. Such a waste of money.

Assumed it is a 6 day mountaineering course? all of below assumes you are standard climber/student type for mtneering course --Boots and gaiters (type, brand etc) I would either rent or buy plastic boots (buy if you think you will get more use out of them to justify. Like going to denali or acon-choss-ua or something like) Don't be the guy with leather boots. seriously. gaiters, the standard OR kind is fine. --Warm synthetic/down jacket and pants med weight synthetic jacket but not pants. If you really need it, get thicker bottom layer (or shoeller pants) to put over thinner bottom layer. Jacket must be able to fit under rainjacket. If you can't wear all if your clothes at one time, you brought too much. Not down gear here. outside of tent = synthetic. inside tent = down. --Day pack/overnight pack nope unless it is super lightweight and possibly double duty kind that can be used as a sleeping bag compression sack --Sleeping bag (degree?) and sleeping pad normal types 20 to 30 degree bag. (20 for cold sleeper and 30 for warm sleeper) down. pads is a foam and a lightweight inflatable kind like thermarest. --Harness simple kind, alpine bod or similar. If you think you will want to rock climb in future, get a rock climbing harness with adjustable leg loops. --belay/rappel device atc will be used in crevasse rescue z pulley. Other ones may or may not work. --Rescue Pulley whatever basic pulley from climbing store, not hardware store --ice ax something lightweight again. (notice theme?) does not need to be able to handle ice climbing. 60 to 65 cm and nothing bigger, really. --crampons if mountaineering is what you are all about and nothing "extreme", get lightweight aluminum crampons. If you think you may go for some steeper terrain, then metal but with horizontal frontpoints. no ice climbing crampons you will get a gear list from the guide service and it will be close to what I suggest. The gear list works so stick close to it. But always think lightweight. The pack will get heavier when you load up the food, water and group gear. Expect packs to be 40 to over 50 pounds. Being lightweight means your pack will be in the 40 pound range vs the over 50 pound range and you don't want to be that guy, I promise. ahead of time, figure out your food needs calorie wise. Food need is easy to over estimate and will cause the pack to be overly heavy. Try to pack about 130% of your normal daily caloric needs. no water hoses even if you have a sleeve for it. while out there stay hydrated and fed. Personal maintenance is so important. gloves. thin liners and windstopper gloves and standard OR mittens. versatile and lightweight. Hopefully you will get lucky with weather but late may can be a fickle time. good luck and let us know how it goes. leave photos.

one or two depends. If it is late season, I would say two and mainly because of the need to possibly put directionals in tough crevasse crossing situations. but for everything else, one or none. I know of one situation where a ice screw came in handy for a crevasse rescue and that was a very strange situation.

link don't work (or I am a internut idiot). pretty rad though.

good doctor, I hate you.

back from the dead

not surprising really, considering it is republican created. A lot of crazy shit comes from arizona and florida.

pro mountain sports? give them a call. also give alpine ascents a call. It is a guide service but they have a retail store. Never been in it but worth a try. same goes for the american alpine institute but they are in bellingham.

I haven't heard much from the Josh lad lately. Hey Josh, you still around these interweb parts?

looks like he is based out of salem for the spring break. smith should be good in the spring. and close. Leavenworth will be good but there is a chance it could be raining. Spring is the time that they get what little rain falls for the year. Easy forecast will prevent a wasted drive north. I doubt that you will get rained out of smith though.

except that stanley headwall is not granite which lacks the type of holds that picks like.

new testament is good too. It is rated 10a but it is mostly much easier (5.8) with a sting at the end. Could prolly pull a couple aid moves and squeek through it if you aren't a 5.10 leader. PLus you are doing trad right in the middle of sporto hell. Gotta luv that.

white satin and sky chimney on NE face smith rock group. A old school trad lines that face across from a world of sport clipping. You can almost feel the envy of the sport climbers who realize that you have huge balls for being over there. (even though it is 5.7)

for the sake of intellectual curiosity, please educate us with why? Not arguing against. Sounds like you suggest separating it by some time amount. How would you schedule a weight room and rock gym sessions?

better luck with the ladies? I better get back to the gym. You are right about the need for skills and specialization for expected demands. Now imagine a real gym with some hangboards, overhanging walls and you got yourself mountain athlete gym in jackson. Now if I could convince the local crossfit or ymca to let me hang some goodies in there place.

by this logic, we should get rid of the ski forum then cause it ain't climbing. And spray, pirates and whatever else that is non climbing related. hangboard isn't gonna help with alpine and ice climbing but that ain't climbing anyway right?

I'll have to write a note to myself reminding me to not eat grass while climbing.

In america, the police would be too afraid to go that far for someone thought to have guns, shoot monsters and be a member of NRA. NRA lawyers would have been all up the police's face. Canadian common folk are too nice to try and stop such stupidity.

Agreed that the formula is not accurate for everyone. Just a place to start. Did you find yours being hooked up to monitors on a treadmill or did you figure it out yourself on a track or something? genetics plays more into MHR than training? (my new excuse) what is OBLA?

the classic formula is 220 - age = max HR. If she is 30, her max HR would be 190. Training could bump this up too. even with that, 158/190 = 83% which is fairly high for 60 min.

yes I am out of shape if that is the definition of being in shape. For my age and the usual equation for max HR, 158BPM is 90% of my max and an hour of that will wear me out. Pardon me for being weak. No one said they couldn't use their muscles after such a round of whatever you want to call it. But it is definitely not a good condition to be in for more training. Especially hypertrophy or power. There is not much consensus in the training world on how to do things but conditioning after heavy work is pretty much universal. Even the crazy folks at crossfit seem to follow this idea. I wouldn't know about throwing up during cardio as I have never done it (the throwing up part or the hour of 90% MHR), but I think that getting to the point to throw up is beyond simple cardio and into anerobic and possibly due to the extreme amounts of lactic acid buildup in addition to hormones, CNS, and other factors. I am not even sure if cardio has to be aerobic. Cardio is about strengthening the heart and possibly about flushing out the arteries and veins and such. I think cardio work is also about training the energy creation methods to be more efficient at making energy. Usually measured in how much the heart beats/min. Aerobic and anaerobic is about which energy system is providing the chemicals needed to move muscles. (ATP production?) Does it need oxygen or not? You can have anaerobic training methods that raise the heart rate and be called cardio. Tabata protocols and other intervals would be mainly anearobic and still cardio work. If I remember right, a classic cardio exercise starts with ATP being used from the cells stored supply. Once that is gone (after a couple minutes?), there is something else kicking in but it is short too. Aerobic kicks in (mitochondrial) and can hold things up for a long time but when the work becomes too tough, anaerobic adds to the production for the deficit. this causes lactic acid to build up and eventually end the activity. Been a long time since I read about these things so I am prolly wrong in some degree. (eyes glazing over yet?)

60 minutes @ 158 on the stairs made you throw up and use all of your glycogen? Maybe you're doing it wrong 158 BPM is around 75% to 80% of max HR. It would not be surprising to use up all of the blood and liver glycogen stores with 60 minutes of that. If I remember it right, cellular glycogen stores (or equivalent) would be used up in a couple minutes, blood glycogen used up in 12 minutes or so and the liver has about a hours worth. There is another storage place but I forget where that is. Besides after that, hormones are shot, central nervous system is taxed and everything else is going to shite anyway.

it could be hot or not in july for leavenworth. I have had some very pleasant days in august and july and also some scorchers. Most of the crags face south but pearly gates faces north for those hot days. If it is really too hot, hit the pearly gates and maybe something within your abilities on snow creek wall. You can also go hike into colchuck lake for some stunning views with easy scrambles if you like. The hike up to asguard pass and to summit of dragontail peak, as well as the snow climb up to colchuck peak are reasonable one day ventures. from leavenworth, you can drive south to meet up with i90 near cle elum I believe. Another hot day suggestion would be to hike into ingals pk but that would really be better as a overnighter. It could be done as a day trip but I don't know how long that would take. SOmeone help with that idea?

Now now John, different goals for different people. (listen to me being a hypocrite, 90L packs and ice screw soloing out of crevasses) Princess Wook, just curious as I am trying to create a base fitness plan for myself that is YMCA gym based that I would do in addition to a day or two in a rock gym getting ready for the spring summer fun. From what I see at face value, PW is working hypertrophy and John is working power endurance and such.

sounds like a good shdr workout wookie. Do you hit this once a week or more? What does the rest of the week look like? a split routine?