genepires

choose adams over whitney. I think you could shorten your timeline by a couple years easy. (assuming you are in reasonable shape) 2013 baker route, maybe a private with extra on expedition skills 2014 denali prep in spring and west buttress in june If saving up vacation days is needed, then do the prep and the trip ion 2015. Do the prep and trip in the same year. for the rest of the year, hike whatever hills you got with a full pack. maybe hump up 40 pounds of water and dump it on the summit. and go snow camping in the worst times of the year in the midwest. head out in nasty weather, hike in 5 miles or so and go camping overnight. (don't get lost, maybe even just hike along the road) Make sure you are comfy with cramponing. denali prep may not be able to prepare you for that as the snow may be too soft for crampons.

something board lasted sized big enough for a liner sock labeled as a "beginner" shoe, nothing fancy which means painful. high top preferred had boreal aces

from the yates website, it says the screamers start activating at 2KN and keep it down to 3 or 4 KN. How much force do you think your questionable pieces are capable of? BTW I am not saying it is a good idea to use it between the rope and the harness. Not MY scenario. But it does look like it would keep the peak forces down to 6 or 8 KN and start to limit the force at 4KN.

far right side of fun rocks (out in the sun) is sunbug slabs. easy 5.4 and similar. 2 or 3 easy routes side by side. big handholds and low angle. good kid fun. I have heard from a guide that there is a good beginners slab farther up on another crag that is good too but I have not been there.

might be wrong but having a screamer on the tie in would limit the force on the questionable piece, but not as much as having it on the questionable piece. if the downward force vector is limited to whatever the screamer limits it to, say 3KN, then the force up from the belayer would be around 3KN also. (assuming a frictionless biner) So the questionable piece feels a 6KN force. Obviously the screamer would be best on the piece and not the harness. But if the applied force on the piece is 8 KN and it would hold 6kn, then it would theoretically hold with a screamer on the harness. So it would do some good.

are you sure that this population is really that large enough to say there is a difference between areas? example, if there are 5 people in WA doing what you are saying, are there hundreds doing this in other areas? I suspect that the people who could do that around here, moved over there. (with the except of a few notable people who decide to hang around) Justin Sjong is one of many examples.

is it the new 3'oclock rock? when the FS decides to quick fixing clear creek rd, is this where slabbies can go to get their fix?

if the piece failed, how much stretch would there be in the rope? I would think there is some but not significant stretch in the lead rope to prestretch out the rope much before landing on the next ppiece.

is there a problem with these?

facts get disproved all the time. Then new facts are born. But it takes cold hard evidence to disprove facts. so yes since the attack was published, that is the facts as we know it. Now all it takes is some kind of reliable evidence to change and expose the facts. Where is it? that is right, you have none, cause if you did, then the facts of the attack would already be corrected and exposed. So keep on with your distrust of the gubermint but please don't act like you are the one on moral high ground. You just sound like another wackjob teaparty extremist.

exactly my point. I know things like this usually sneak up on me and I am not even thinking about what the weather provides. Usually bemoan the fact that my plans did not turn out the way I wanted. Hopefully not this winter. second winter ascent of the east gully of white chuck?

within the last week I never said warm. the forecast from august said for warmer than normal temps for 1/3 of the months for this winter. Current models don't say anything about above normal temps though. But considering last winter was supposed to be normal and we still got lots of rain at stevens..............I'll leave it at that.

just by going by the predicted maps, it shows normal temp and below average precip for nearly every month and 3 month timeframe. it is supposed to be colder than normal and drier for the fall. where is the forecast of cold winter you speak of?

plan for alpine climbing.

there was a X on a loosy block on the last pitch of GNS for years but was finally gone sometime this year. Did you finally take it down for me?

weird and spooky to reread the thread and realize that one of the posters may be dead. Didn't dave trippet die a couple years ago? forgive me if I am wrong about the status of dave.

a drone for $1000? screw the gopro, gimme a drone-pro

very nice curt!

sold

certain accidents will require the action to occur within hours. (head injury, internal bleeding, ect) A spot would be the only way for rescuers to get the information fast enough if a cell phone is not available.

not meaning to jump on anyone's case but just trying to help out. Maybe you need to hone in those basic skills on the crags which will help with time management on the alpine. 7 hours for 6 pitches on the w ridge is really slow even for a team of three. (team of three should be no more than 20% slower than a team of two when you got 2 double ropes) I suspect that it was the making of belays and belay transfers that took the most time. 45 minutes to get both climbers done with a pitch (low 5th) is a goal you should achieve before going into the alpine. good on ya though for getting out and doing it. PM just saw your point #12

I got 17 black diamond hotwire carabiners that are about 10 years old. Got to many biners so I am clearing out some of the unused stuff. rather sell as a lot but will sell smaller amounts. thinking of $3 each or the lot for $40. they have been used but never dropped. Doubtful that I have taken a leader fall on them. (if that matters) will post photo later. WIll ship to cont US if buyer pays actual USPS shipping costs. paypal fine

got a blue rei fleece jacket that my boy has outgrown. If your kid is 45# or less, it may fit. label says 4T. free to anyone who comes by Monroe for pickup.

got a blue rei fleece jacket that my boy has outgrown. If your kid is 45# or less, it may fit. label says 4T. free to anyone who comes by to pickup.

the tooth s face at snoq pass (short day) s ridge/face ingals peak (long day) beckey route on liberty bell (long drive with short day) will prolly want a thin 50m rope to rap with for first and last route.