genepires

nice trip! makes me long ta taste the sweetness that is squish granite.

+1 for hardcopy books. nothing better with the morning bowel movements than a good guidebook. and I ain't got no ipad for the toilet use.

stolen shoes? never heard of that happening and really sucks. imagine if that happened miles from the car. Is there a market for stolen crocs? how does one make money from shoes? sorry to hear about the shoes man.

solid f#$king route! great to see that there are big rather unknown adventures out there still.

nice one. real quality on the interwebs!

wouldn't call is completely wasteful. If you can tie the finish, then you have the required amount of tail. (and then some) I always tie the overhand but don't worry about it when it comes undone (the overhand knot), which it always does. probably the more important thing to do is to tie the fig 8 cleanly (strands always parallel) and then tug on each of the 4 strands of rope coming out of the knot individually to really chinch the knot down. single bowlines = scary knot IMO. any knot that really needs a backup is not my knot of choice.

except that the warm part of the forecast means it will rain instead of snow at the ski areas. poop!

http://www.cpc.ncep.noaa.gov/products/predictions/long_range/seasonal.php?lead=6 had to go there and see the "bad" news. looks like this winter will be warm and dry. suppose that is good (alpine and cragging) and bad (ski pass holder).

did another test today as I have to return the drill tomorrow. realized my holes were only 3" deep so the first test was not accurate. ANyway, we can find total length drilled for a battery and find how many 5" holes would equal. fully charged battery got 17 holes for 3" each in something that looked like skagit green schist. so that comes to 51" of rock removed or 10x5" holes. The rock was harder to drill than my previous test. was under the i5 bridge in mt vernon/burlington. No one thought I was a terrorist. was standing right over and drilling downwards which is obviously better for drilling holes than on the vertical so I would expect holes on rock climbs to be little bit less. for billcoe's request 1 ft 2 inches tip of bit to trigger 1'5" tip of bit to handle end exposed amount of drill bit = 5" I am such a dumbass. I used a milwaukee drill here is the info for this drill http://www.milwaukeetool.com/tools/cordless-tools/hammers/rotary-hammers/m18-cordless-lithium-ion-7-8-inch-sds-plus-rotary-hammer-kit/2605-22

OK. anyone wanna go to sloan? tyson, forget about family. climb with me.

looking for a mellow alpine overnight jaunt. sloan fit the bill. PM me if you are interested in heading out sat and come back sunday. Don't let me solo the route.

can the NPS take credit for that? education of visitors to not be a dumb-ass? (what is plural for dumb-ass?) was your food cache strung up a tree?

finally got around to drilling some holes rock was at a quarry near monroe. I think it was some kind of sandstone 3/8" drill to 5" depth battery may not have been fully charged and the battery has had some work use since we got it 4 months ago. So the battery may not have as much charge as a brand new one would. I got 13 holes into a boulder laying on the ground, standing right over it while drilling. I will try later with a known fully charged battery in other types of rock.

nice one Matt. what no biking from seattle?

bravo my man, bravo!

only rock climbed there once but I seem to remember hiking there on nice tree lined trail the whole way. Like up the hillside to the right and cutting in along the base. I think there are some decent trails down the scree.

depends on the terrain. On some n face gulley about 30 degrees, I had a classic pick and a reverse curve pick tool. The classic pick went in very easy and the reverse curve was a total POS. With my sample size of 1, I would say use a more classic shape for typical summer ventures. SAve the reverse curve for steeper winter pursuits. I wouldn't just assume that the raddest curve is the best.

skiing mt yamnuska. who wudda thought? Makes sense though as there is a nice non scree trail to the rock face.

if you want up to the date info, try calling the american alpine institute office. they have guides on baker every week all summer. if you are nice, they shoudl give you good answers. I would bet money that it is in and fine to go.

suzy at the "massage" parlor could come up with a better "happy ending"

Dane mentioned a while ago about witnessing a very long fall on the n face of snoqualmie of a guy simu with a skinny single and large amount of rope stretch. 40+stretch on 60m rope is >20% rope stretch. With breaking ankles, assume it was 50 feet of stretch for 25% rope stretch. That just doesn't seem right. with a little google search, mammut ropes have a max 10% elongation for static (tr) loads and about 30% for lead falling elongations.

Are you sure smed wasn't freaking out cause the liquid refreshments was out of reach?

went early september and had a couple inches of fresh snow overnight one time. melted out on south facing aspects but not on north facing for a while. Hardly any bugs though. never saw a bear either but that doesn't mean they're not around. so jealous. if it looks like it will be too cold up at the cirque, maybe climb in the lower areas around deep lake or other areas.

dawned on me, I should borrow it after work. find some road cut or creek bed somewhere and drill away. sometimes I am not very smart.