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About jayhawk

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  • Birthday 11/26/2017
  1. Spot vs Inreach vs ???

    I have texted my wife with the InReach from the bottom of the Narrows in Zion, so they work in slot canyons.
  2. Looks way less anemic than when I looked at it in November and bailed. But there you go. Everyone has been running up TC, but it has looked pretty thin to me too.
  3. I didn't know him well, but did spend a little time in the mountains with him. What a passion he had for the hills! There's a bunch more info/discussion on NWHikers: http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8009143&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
  4. I have not gone left. It looked easier than right earlier this month, but pro looked dubious.
  5. Sounds like you went right on the first pitch (unconsolidated snow on traverse)? Fun times.
  6. Ice Climbing Ropes

    I use the ice floss 60's in the Winter. I find that while occasionally a 70 would be nice in terms of lead length, I have enough trouble getting the two ropes unclustered while setting up rappels. Those skinny ropes sure seem to love to get knotted up, and you have to be a real flake-nazi. It would be that much worse with 70's, and you certainly don't need any extra rappel length.
  7. [TR] Mt. Ellinor - "Scottish" Gulley 12/16/2013

    Nice work in the aluminum strap-ons and classical piolets!
  8. Eric - I did have to funk those pins out, so while they looked bad, they weren't that bad. Alex - we were pretty sure that the white stuff in the corner on the dihedral pitch was just snow. But it was still a good day out - first day of the year for me skiing, placing a screw, placing pins. Josh
  9. [TR] Chair Peak - Northeast Buttress 12/7/2013

    KK, we actually took the far right (S-shaped) gully on pitch one. Those tracks you see are from a party on a different day. We found the right variation very protectable, containing styrofoam snow and some ice. It didn't really require any pure mixed moves. The left variation looked easier (less steep), but was questionable in terms of protectability. -Josh
  10. [TR] Alpental Valley Ice

    Agreed. I think Alpental Valley is where it's at right now. We climbed Chair's NE Butt today, but it was a tough decision to walk past all that good-looking ice right out of the parking lot! Chair is great now too, btw.
  11. Trip: Chair Peak - Northeast Buttress Date: 12/7/2013 Trip Report: It was a struggle to walk past the awesome-looking Alpental Falls climbs, which look killer right now, but we did. We found Chair's NE Butt in nearly perfect conditions. We took the right variation on P1. It was cruiser, with good pro. The left variation would go right now with easier climbing, but tougher to protect. Snow was perfect styrofoam for Ueli-stylin'. The short ice step was short, steepish, and fun. Good quality ice. Conditions are awesome right now. Go get some. Gear Notes: We only brought one picket. Two would have been nice. Pins, short screws, rock gear to 1" - we used it all. We used double 60's, and made it down in 2 raps, barely on each. Approach Notes: Skis would have sucked. No flotation necessary. A nice trail is beat in, and the walking's good.
  12. 2012 / 13 Washington Ice Conditions

    Fun day out Dave! For those wondering, here's what Hubba Hubba looked like... Pitch 1: Left of Hubba Hubba P1: Left of Hubba Hubba P2:
  13. Saturday for Ice

    pm sent
  14. SEWS for sure. Your pitches 5-6: you were on route. I did the route recently and also stopped at the 2-bolt anchor on pitch 5 and belayed there. From there it was two bolts traversing right, then the right-trending hand-ish crack to the big ledge. It is suggested that these two pitches can be linked, but I think the rope drag would be heinous, and why not stop at the great new bolted anchor? Awesome route!
  15. Trip: NEWS and SEWS in a day - NW Corner and SW Rib Date: 9/9/2012 Trip Report: This combo has definitely been done before. But, man! It's fun to nail to summits for one approach! Our original goal was to do the East Face of Lexington and then the NW Corner of NEWS. But we wussed out in the face of that much off-width climbing and opted for this combo. Plus, I'd already done the SW Rib before, so that would help us get through both routes more easily in a day. I wish we would have started off on the SW Rib as we'd have been more likely to see some morning sun - we were both underdressed for the Fall-like weather in the shade on NEWS in the morning. But we wanted to do the harder route first, and the one that was new for both of us. Matt heads for the big flake on pitch 3: Top of the flake: The corner: Getting to the easier part: Bear hug cracks on SW Rib: Alpine heel hook! Gear Notes: Green alien to #4, doubles 0.75-2. Doubles were really nice on NEWS, and doubles of #3 would have been nice on corner pitch. #5 not necessary on SW Rib imo. Approach Notes: Two-for-one