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genepires

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Everything posted by genepires

  1. Alright monkeys, can you keep this thing helpful before it gets moved to spray. geez.
  2. sport climbing near seattle that you can make projects of? sounds like you are stuck around exit 32/38 with your best bet at the WW1 wall. But I couldn't touch a 5.11 on the best days so what do I know? but in an effort to be helpful PM Rad and he may show you around an area he as been developing that has yet to attract crowds. Not sure if it haas the grades you seek. PM wallstein, he is a rad climber who knows his stuff. There is some "hidden" cave somewhere on the middle fork of the snoqualmie that is supposed to be overhanging (go figure) sport climbing. really tough stuff from what I read a long time ago. There was some thread here somewhere about how to find this spot. hard to find and may involve some good old fashion cascade approaching. Still a crag day trip though, but you may be going through some prickly bastards to get there. Hopefully someone who actually is helpful will chime in. good luck
  3. nice cartoon. the thought captions could say "if these idiots would just carpool, I could be home now" carpooling is probably a more reasonable solution than bus for most people. WAIT! bike riders place bolts! resume standard spray dialog.
  4. this conversation is way too civil. lets turn up the heat and get some hatin' and "frothing at the mouth" rapid smackin' of the keyboards action please.
  5. arguing with a fool proves there are two of them.
  6. climbs AND drills bolts holes too! too bad you can't set up a TR off its claws. robo climb up with the rope attached, then you get your turn.
  7. put down the crack pipe. where are these underhanded insults?
  8. I believe bicyclist are required by law to observe the traffic laws already. FW, aren't you the small government, don't tax me or tell me what to do guy? And you are proposing that some group (guessing you are not a bike commuter) should be infringed upon by the government? very consistent and considerate you are. Being a jackass is not a reason to be taxed. If so, then there would be a tax for everyone on this spray forum.
  9. in the original photo above, it looks like the belayer is not even looking at the mirror parts but looking up like not wearing the fancy glasses at all.
  10. whatever helps a belayer keep their eyes on the climber is a good thing. I wouldn't wear one but I could make my belayer wear one.
  11. oh yeah "you will not lose your health coverage" is way worse than "they have WMD" or "I did not have sexual relations with....." Enough to impeach the guy? Some people have their underwear on too tight. so what is this long history of lies?
  12. I stand corrected. I was confused about what the aztarex was. My buddy had a pair of these from a way back and it was his WI tools. I liked them alot. But it looks like the line has changed since then. Looks like they don't even make them aztars anymore, only sumtec for summer alpine use.
  13. sorry, I took your posts as that you were anti-guiding in wilderness. My apologizes for mis-speaking.
  14. alright maybe I was being lazy earlier but I found this further down in the section 4c (6) Commercial services may be performed within the wilderness areas designated by this Act to the extent necessary for activities which are proper for realizing the recreational or other wilderness purposes of the areas. If I read this right, it allows mtn guiding as well as horsepackers, hunting/fishing guiding and other support activities. as long as they don't instal permanent fixtures. I would be willing to bet that FW read this part of the code and failed to include it in his discourse cause it does not support his view. Once again throwing gas on the flames to make the world into his desires.
  15. not an expert. but building on the above post, maybe commercial enterprise referenced is just the ones that are not conducive to wilderness environmental protection. Mining, logging and resorts are of this type. Guiding can be seen as being allowed since it is not obviously a hinderance to wilderness. With more free time, it would be good to read the rest of that particular code. There could very well be a section 4c.1 that allows certain types of commerce and fixed structures. The definition of commerce enterprise could very well be defined and exclusions in the remaining parts omitted by the ... in the quote. My only experience with these kinds of codes are the electrical codes and there generally exists exclusions and exemptions to every ruling.
  16. keep petzl tools. I like their picks better which IMO matter more when other aspects are similar. maybe PM Dane or alpine dave for his opinion.
  17. countless hours doing A5 may be more stressfull than having your leg all mangled. it is amazing composure that I would not be able to handle.
  18. from bolting and illegal burning/camping to a civil discourse in 3 pages in spray no less = there is a god.
  19. genepires

    Where to live

    think about the quality of the ski area. IMO, there is none finer than mt baker ski area. Yes there are larger areas but the "feel" and the vibe is incomparable. If I had to ride in only one area for the rest of time, I would be driving up the mt baker hwy. Lots of backcountry right out of the upper lot and lower lot. Enough trails to keep you busy for a long long time. so with that, town of Glacier if you don't need to work or Bellingham if you need to earn some money but still find cheap rent.
  20. either find slow-shoe friends (they are out there) or learn how to ski in a resort and get some good gear. There is no flat ground in the mountains so eventually you will need to be able to go downhill. Without skilz and good skiis/boots, it will either be miserable or injurious. cheap option is to snowshoe. there are plenty of routes to do that are fine snowshoe routes.
  21. Thanks Mark. I did not intend to dismiss the work that the rainier climbing rangers do. was just trying to highlight a couple instances with climbing permits. If I were more wordly, I would probably have more examples of rangers coming into are area, then access to the area being restricted. Don't know the total backstory on Castle rocks near the city of rocks, but restrictions are going on there the last I heard. On a side note, I think that I climbed with that friend of yours the day before he died on rainier. Blind date through a mutual friend. he was a good guy.
  22. While not road side crag, I remember climbing rainier without a permit. not so now. The rationale for the permit was to pay for the full time climbing rangers. The toilet rationale came a couple years later. Denali is another data point. While a true permit system might be off for the time being, I bet that parking permits will be needed soon.
  23. if I move to leavenworth, can I spraypaint the rock? I while I am not really against the added anchors, I do feel uneasy when I hear that people that live within 30 miles of the crag feel that they have some kind of authority in the area. It is public land, not locals land. This attitude does not serve the sport well.
  24. yeah, will do some mock leads, but I think that the skill best for these two is to be able to set up TR's anywhere and get laps in. they are parents and parents should not be doing silly reckless things like leading rock. sheeesh! I should connect this fellow with you tyson! very eager and fit but needs some mentoring and TLC.
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