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NikiY last won the day on September 14 2018

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About NikiY

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  • Birthday 03/14/1984
  1. Trip: Chair Peak - NE Buttress Trip Date: 01/27/2019 Trip Report: After four failed attempts I finally managed to climb the NE Buttress of Chair Peak with @JonParker. Jon posted in the climbing partners forum looking for someone to do Chair Peak with on Sunday January 27th. I have been trying (and failing) to climb this mountain since I moved to Seattle 3.5 years ago so I messaged him immediate. With the low-moderate avy forecast and good weather predicted we left Seattle fairly early in the hopes of being the first group at the trailhead. Our plan worked and after about 2.5 hours of snowshoeing we made it to the base of Chair Peak. We noticed what looked like some wind loaded snow on the left above the ice pitch, but we reasoned that it would be avoidable as long as we stayed climbers right. We partially geared up and Jon suggested that we solo up the start of the S-couloir to this anchor maybe about a 1/3 of the way up. It looked like a decent spot to start the route so I agreed and headed up. The climbing up to it was easy snow - except for the very last move which was a fairly airy step on unconsolidated snow and made getting to the anchor a bit thought-provoking. Of course that nice flat looking spot with the anchor was anything but flat, so we faffed about with tangled ropes as Jon got ready to lead the first pitch. The rest of the S-couloir was a mix of snow and ice, with one or two mixed moves. Jon managed to get in a nut and two screws (one of which I pulled straight out, the other one felt more solid however). I took the next pitch which was pure snow climbing. I headed up to a group of trees and slung two of them for pro and then continued up to a fixed anchor on rock and belayed Jon up. We still had about 60 meters before the ice pitch so Jon again took the lead, placing a couple of nuts and belaying me off a picket just below the ice pitch. I headed up the ice which was very soft and sun baked. It made for really easy sticks but I had to dig 6-8 inches to get to ice solid enough to hold a screw. Above the ice it was just a straight-forward wallow up moderately steep snow until I ran out of rope and built an anchor out of a picket and my ice ax. At this point the party that started after us caught up and I got to chat with Scott while belaying Jon up. Jon led up the final stretch of snow until he got to a nice flat spot to belay from. We unroped here and soloed up to the true summit. Gear Notes: Pickets, ice screws, nuts Approach Notes: Source lake winter trail, floatation recommended.
  2. Chair NEB 1/26 or 1/27

    PMed you.
  3. Thanks for sharing! I know it can be hard to share a trip report that ended in a rescue but it's really valuable to the community. Glad you got off the mountain safely.
  4. I met a guy in the Alpental backcountry last year who had tech inserts in a pair of Koflachs that he used with a split board. Probably the weirdest setup I've ever seen. But it's definitely possible!
  5. Eliot Glacier Ice

    What is the beta on these climbs? Is the approach (minus the road closure) straight forward?
  6. Need ice tool suggestions for harder routes

    I've been using a combo of Grivel Tech Machines and a Light Machine. For waterfall climbing I use two tech machines, for alpine climbing I use one tech machine with the light machine. It feels like the best compromise to me - the light machine isn't great at climbing nor is it great for the approach/decent, but it climbs a lot better than most mountaineering axes and plunges/self-arrests better than most technical tools. Plus the tech and light machines use the same pick. A similar combo would be Petzl nomics and a sum'tec.
  7. Hey, I'm not passing the buck. Like I said it's not as simple as my pithy statement makes it out to be. It's more that I think individuals need to focus more on organizing to influence these corporations than they do about not using disposable straws.
  8. While I do believe that individuals should do what they can to reduce their carbon footprint, it's worth remembering that 100 corporations are responsible for over 70% of global emissions: https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/2017/jul/10/100-fossil-fuel-companies-investors-responsible-71-global-emissions-cdp-study-climate-change Of course those corporations mostly exist because individuals buy products from them so it's not as simple as that pithy statement sounds, but the idea that climate change, etc. is a moral failing on the part of individuals is pretty laughable.
  9. I saw the same gear posted on the TAY FB group recently. According to the comments they belong to a guy who used to ski Chair peak so regularly he just stashed his gear up there so he didn't need to carry it up each time. He injured his hip and never bothered to reclaim it.

    I had some great skiing on the Muir snowfield last October, and by the looks of it this October should be good too!

    We went to Pinnacle "Glacier". I'll let this photo do the talking:

    Hell yeah! Heading out tomorrow in search of some!
  13. Which Dan Smith? Not the Dan Smith? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dan_Smith_Will_Teach_You_Guitar
  14. not secure

    I posted in the cc.news forum and JasonG reached out to the site admins. Hopefully they will updated their cert soon
  15. Expired security certificate

    You guys probably already know this, but your security certificate expired.